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Old 10-30-2018, 09:35 AM   #11
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Hi Shelly! sorry for the delay in answering your questions. I think we had the same year and model fun finder, so I can sure tell you what we found. Ours was soft under the corner of the front window only. both sides had leaked, but the damage was only at the bottom "passenger" side. We cut away the wall board until all damaged framing wood was exposed, and until we got to the solid wood. the framing was 1x2 wood. there were no metal plates, seams or supports anywhere in there, just the wood. there was a piece of plywood that surrounded the window for strength, and was part of the framing. Luckily, the wood we needed to replace didn't extend very far beyond the one area, not into the corner of the wall. One product DH used that made all the frame replacement stronger and easier, was called Durham's rock hard water putty. It is amazing stuff, and he used it to reinforce all his splices in the wood. These joins were made with diagonal cuts, and toenailing wood screws in. this wood putty was both between and around the joints, and filled in irregularity in the connections. the insulation was fiberglass batting, and not abundant. most we were able to put back in place. it would be entirely possible to add more of any kind, although the fiberglass batt is easy to stuff in and around the area. As far as the 1/4" plywood, I think it would be too thick, unless you were replacing the entire front interior wall, you will have a seam with two different thicknesses. I found some very thin wood paneling at an estate sale, I think it was a veneer of some kind. It was the exact thickness (or thinness) of the existing wallboard, meaning there was no difference in height of the seam in the wall. DH traced a paper template of the shape of the piece he needed, and arc of the window, cut it out and fit the new piece of wall in just like a puzzle piece. then he used a wood filler and sanded it smooth. all the seams were invisible when papered over.

one thing to note. When the wood repair was done, we took out the window, and replaced the butyl tape sealant that goes around between the window and the exterior of the trailer, but the window still leaked. We realized the water was running down the glass and between the glass and frame to enter under the window glass. we had no luck finding a replacement window, or shop that could (or would) replace the seal in the window. so we carefully placed wedges between the glass and frame so that the glass was pressed in toward the inner seal and DH put a fine bead of silicone in that gap on the exterior of the window. (He is a wizard with calking, having been a contractor for many years.) then we did the same in the other direction, on the inside of the window. After it cured, we hosed it down mercilessly and it was leak proof. usually silicone is not good to use in sealing trailers, but glass against metal it is a good product, as it will remain flexible. If we could have had the seal replaced, or found a replacement window, we would have. I'm going to look for pictures we took and post them in the gallery, might take a little while.

so far, the new trailer is great, although we haven't been able to go camping in it yet!!
I can tell we will miss sitting at the big dinette, surrounded by the nice windows, but I'm sure we will think the trade off worth it.

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Old 10-30-2018, 10:06 AM   #12
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Location: Hickory Flat, Ga.
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What Hinda said....
We removed and used butyl tape around the front window frame as well. We also found the same trouble with the glass seal. Used Prematex 65A between the glass and the rubber seal and have had no problems since.

2005 T139FK
1995 Chevy G20 aka "Big Blue",
1994 GMC Camper Van,
1993 Chevy "Shorty" Van
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Old 10-30-2018, 11:34 AM   #13
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that looks like a good product! especially the flowable nature.
I found pics of our repair and will post in the gallery. some are kind of hard to visualize in context, but hope they help.
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:40 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Hilda View Post
... One product DH used that made all the frame replacement stronger and easier, was called Durham's rock hard water putty. It is amazing stuff, and he used it to reinforce all his splices in the wood. ...
I am a HUGE fan of Durham's water putty! I use it a lot, it makes a great nail-hole-filler. You can even cast little statues and things in it I used it to fill in the ends of the pvc table legs I made.

However, one thing to be aware of - even when it has set up and dried thoroughly, water will make it soft again. It is not waterproof! Unfortunately! If you have an opportunity, paint over the water putty repairs and it will help somewhat. But it is not weatherproof or waterproof. If it even just really humid, it can get soft again.


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