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Old 09-21-2014, 02:50 PM   #1
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Default 2013 FUN FINDER X X214WSD

I am winterizing this unit and cannot find the low water valves. I had another FF and the valves were pull valves around the hot water heater compartment. The only hose protruding through the membrane underneath is the blue water tank hose. Would it be possible that this model didn't have a low water cutoff? Thanks for any assistance you can give.
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:11 AM   #2
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Check under kitchen sink
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Old 09-22-2014, 11:12 AM   #3
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Default Found the low water cutoffs

Spoke w/ a FF factory tech and he suggested they may be hidden/out of the way against the skirting underneath. That's where they were, along the right side near the rear of the unit. Problem solved
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Old 10-01-2014, 07:02 PM   #4
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Default Re: Found the low water cutoffs

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Originally Posted by X214WSD
Spoke w/ a FF factory tech and he suggested they may be hidden/out of the way against the skirting underneath. That's where they were, along the right side near the rear of the unit. Problem solved
What year is your's? I have the 2011 214WSD, and still cannot find them!

Thanks.
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Old 10-01-2014, 07:37 PM   #5
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Default Low Water point values

My unit is a 2013 but the factory rep said that there is no distinct location for these valves. I had a 2008 21 footer that had the values in a compartment where the water heater shutoff valves were. You pulled on them to empty them. The values on this unit are about 1 inch below the membrane and you unscrew them. I literally had to crawl around the whole underneath to see them.
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Old 10-01-2014, 07:58 PM   #6
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Default Re: Low Water point values

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Originally Posted by X214WSD
My unit is a 2013 but the factory rep said that there is no distinct location for these valves. I had a 2008 21 footer that had the values in a compartment where the water heater shutoff valves were. You pulled on them to empty them. The values on this unit are about 1 inch below the membrane and you unscrew them. I literally had to crawl around the whole underneath to see them.
Someone elsewhere suggested they might be behind the panel next to my HW tank. I'll go looking!

Thanks
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:44 AM   #7
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I found them! The low water drains were indeed underneath, but tucked up next to the skirt, on the opposite side as the hot water tank and all the other water stuff. Basically, underneath the shower. They were both black, but on disconnecting they had red & blue rings on the lines indicating which was which.

They were hard to spot, and difficult to get a grip on to undue. Too bad they weren't extended just a few more inches to hang down further for easier access.

At least I know where they are now!

Total winterizing took me about a 1/2 hour! Easy enough.
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Old 11-03-2014, 11:56 AM   #8
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Where is the hot water heater by-pass located on the 214? Going to winterize this week.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:14 PM   #9
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The hot water tank, bypass valves, and the handy line for pumping in anti freeze, are all behind the panel at the base of the pantry shelves. (Opposite the fridge)
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:40 PM   #10
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On our 2015 FF 214 WSD, the suction hose and diverter valve for the introduction of anti-freeze comes right off the water pump behind a panel under the kitchen sink. While the panel was removed (2 screws) I cut a 3 inch diameter hole near the top so that I can reach in and switch the valve and gain access to the suction hose for future winterizations without having to remove the panel.

The water heater and by-pass valve were exactly where you described them to be below the pantry.

The whole process was much easier than either of the two previous trailers we had ... only needed a couple gallons and 20 minutes. Next season it will take even less time



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Old 11-03-2014, 09:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rip5
Where is the hot water heater by-pass located on the 214? Going to winterize this week.
Looks like the location for you water pump (and siphon hose for anti freeze) moves around year to year.

However you can count on the Hot Water tank bypass valves to be connected to & close to the tank itself though, which is easier to find since it sticks out the side of your trailer!

In case you haven't played with those valves yet, remember you are looking for three. Once each that close off water entering and leaving the tank, and a 3rd that will be 1/2 way between them to re-direct water to pass by the tank. (you reverse these to de-winterize)
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:12 AM   #12
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Thanks. This does help a bit, but taking panels off that appear to be nail-gunned in does not sound like an easy job. It should be easy as you say, but right now it sounds a bit more complex.

I know there is a valve under the galley sink I can easily reach, but did not see or feel additional valves.

Still not 100% clear on this.

Thanks for your help all.
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rip5
Thanks. This does help a bit, but taking panels off that appear to be nail-gunned in does not sound like an easy job. It should be easy as you say, but right now it sounds a bit more complex......
Pretty sure the panel(s) that need removing are only a few easy screws. If its nail gunned, you are looking at the wrong panel.

It really is an easy job!
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Old 11-04-2014, 08:51 AM   #14
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This is my water heater. You can see that there are 4 corner screw holes to hold the panel on. There is only 1 valve ... it's called a "by-pass valve" because it causes the incoming water (blue line) to go directly up to the outlet line (red line) as it by-passes the water heater entirely.

If the panel covering this area is nail gunned, then I would tend to believe that your by-pass valve may be located somewhere else. I would remove the outside cover where you would access the water heater to drain it and see if maybe the valve is located outside in the outer compartment.

As we've both heard from others, these valves can be located in a variety of places. Also, in my case, I have a total of 2 valves for winterizing. The other one under the sink in line with the water pump directly is used to suction antifreeze directly from the bottle.



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Old 11-04-2014, 09:55 AM   #15
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Thanks, both of you. It's sounding more clear now. So, the valve under the kitchen/galley sink does not really need to be messed with, unless I siphon antifreeze in there ? I was planning on putting antifreeze in the water tank, and let the pump circulate it through the plumbing. But having had boats for 18 years, I do know that I need to by-pass the hot water heater with antifreeze. It was easy to see on a boat, as it was not behind "door #2"
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rip5
Thanks, both of you. It's sounding more clear now......
They really have moved things around since my 2011! (and apparently removed two of the valves!)

One other suggestion, most people don't introduce the antifreeze via the fresh water tank, mostly because its almost impossible to get rid of the taste! (I speak from a lesson learned he hard way)

The siphon hose near your pump was made for this job and works well!
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:26 AM   #17
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As I contemplate Diver Ricks's comments and look at the picture I posted, I am beginning to doubt that I understand what I thought I knew. The single valve at my water heater cannot be a "diverter valve" as I originally indicated since if it diverted water back up the blue line to the red line, there's nothing that would keep it from going back into the water heater at the top outlet. So my terminology must be wrong and this valve must be a "shut-off" closing off all initial water entry to the heater tank. I had it right in my initial posting so I must need another cup of coffee this morning

My previous two trailers didn't have the suction option for the introduction of antifreeze and had to be done using the method you describe. Adding antifreeze to the fresh water tank and pumping it through the system just like water always worked just fine although to took about 3 gallons of antifreeze just to reach the pick-up tube in the tank. Altogether I needed about 5 gallons to do the job, but then I could recover about 2.5 back into the jugs from the fresh water tank drain after completion.

I've read that it doesn't hurt the water heater to fill it with antifreeze, it's just that it holds a lot (mine is 6 gallons) by itself so cost is a factor. It also then takes longer to sanitize in the spring when you de-winterize.



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Old 11-04-2014, 10:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travels with Yoly
As I contemplate Diver Ricks's comments and look at the picture I posted, I am beginning to doubt that I understand what I thought I knew......
I'm on my 3rd cup myself, and starting to think better too!

If I didn't see your picture for myself, I would have thought your system was missing at least two valves. Reading several websites on it now, and your "1x valve" system is mentioned several times.

You are right though, the main reason for by-passing the HW tank is to save 6 gallons of anti freeze that's not necessary if you leave your tank drained (and plug out) for the winter. Another good reason is the anti-freeze is corrosive to the anode rod in the tank (if you were to leave it in)

I'd love to show you a pic of what mine looks like, but its all tucked away in storage now!
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:13 AM   #19
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Good discussion !
In talking with a friend who has owned TT's for many years, his winterizing method seems tempting.

He connects an air compressor (small 12V type) through a fitting he bought at an RV store, direct to his fresh water inlet. Then disconnects the shower head, takes the screens out of the faucets, opens up all faucets and shower. Then he blows the air through the inlet until zero water comes out. That way, it goes through the entire system, removes any water that may be in the lines. He then just pours some anti freeze into the toilet, down the sink and shower drains, which will then also protect your black and gray water tanks, and that is it. Since the freshwater tank is drained, there is no need to have any anti freeze in that tank. That way de-winterizing is much easier, and no bad tasting water in the spring. He uses less than 2 gallons total to winterize.

The siphon method is also something I will explore as well. I'm going to ask the tech at our dealership what they recommend, even though the owner's manual says to use the antifreeze in the fresh water tank, and pump it through the system.
I'll let you know what I decide on doing.
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:42 AM   #20
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Here's a pic of the pressure tank hose adapter. I just used it the other day to blow out the hose at the house (first time using adapter). I was always afraid of higher pressure on the tank, but since it's such a little tank, I think I might be safe.

There are two gauges on the tank - one says "tank" and the other says "outlet". There is one large knob to turn.

How do I adjust the "outlet" (I'm assuming that the tool end of business) to not go over, say 30 lbs of pressure? When I've let it run in the past, the both go up to 100 lbs.

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