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Old 07-19-2017, 03:17 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by DiverRick View Post
I can't even imagine who the rocket scientist was that decided to put the switch there.... At least they are now usually installed on the panel inside with all the other buttons. (where mine is labelled "Out = On" since I can't seem to remember......)

Your fix was simple and works. I wonder how many other owners don't even know its in there and are wondering why their battery is never charged up!
There was as similar thread on the battery switch this last winter and I was also surprised at the number of folks that did not know where it was. You mentioned, "At least they are now usually installed on the panel inside with all the other buttons," and that is nice, I hope the "NEW" manufacturer standardizes all the systems better and uses a better level of quality and materials than used in mine! I don't think mine is any worse or better than the competition, but to compete in weight and cost against the many manufacturers, something usually has to give in...
My trailer is a 2008 and was manufactured by "the original" Cruiser RV Co.; the original Cruiser RV Co. changed ownership when purchased by Thor Industries of Elkhart, Indiana in 01/01/2015.
My trailer size and model is also no longer mfd. (2008 CruiserRV FunFinder Xtra XT-190 Toy Hauler) and I need to replace two of the window screen frames, the corners do not fit correctly and gap big time... So, I.m looking for replacements or I will try to have fab'd or fab my own...

Good luck with your trailer and ...
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:56 AM   #22
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Hey DiverRick and Dragonflly,
We discussed another issue with the battery disconnect switch. Depending on its location, it can be inadvertently turned off!! Mine is located in my storage area and as you probably already learned, pulled is on, pushed in is off (or at least that's how mine works). Well, if a person is not careful with hoses, blocks, tools, or whatever, they could push the switch in. We discussed this a while back and most folks have installed a guard to help preclude this from happening... I used a steel conduit U-Clamp to protect mine... see pics...
Unprotected and Protected... This has worked well for me since 2014...
That was a great fix! I ended up taking my disconnect off and just wiring it together straight. I just pulled the fuse if I need to disconnect my battery. But I wish I'd seen yours, because I probably would have just done that. I tried some other things that didn't work as well. Great idea!

Liz
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:02 PM   #23
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I ended up separating the L.P. detector from the CO detector. Much cheaper that way. Bought the L.P. only rv detector for around $40 and a AA battery powered CO detector from a home improvement store for $12. CO detector has a 10 year life time.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:56 AM   #24
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I pull out the switch (on position) and leave it there.

Is there a manual override for the hitch if the battery dies?
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Old 08-04-2017, 08:10 AM   #25
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Simply remove the round plug on top of the electric hitch jack and you will see a nut. This nut can be turned with a socket/ratchet to raise/lower the hitch jack.

IIRC the nut is the same size as on the stabilizer jacks and maybe the hand crank for the stabilizer jacks could be used.
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Old 08-06-2017, 05:45 PM   #26
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Thank you Eagle for your help on the manual crank for the hitch, it was exactly where you said it would be. Much appreciated!
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:02 PM   #27
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You are welcome
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