Camper is tucked in for the winter

[twinster2]

Well its November and soon the snow will be flying in Michigan. My FF is now winterized and tucked in for a long winter's nap.

[Eagle]

Mine went into inside storage a few weeks ago. Rented space inside unused buildings at the county fairgrounds.

Won't see it till spring.

[DiverRick]

Mine too! Its always kinda sad every fall when I do this.

Just curious. I've read in many places, and been told by just about everyone, that covering over winter like yours is, can actually be worse than leaving it in the open air.

Mostly an arguement that it "traps" in moisture and can accelerate rot/rust damage. About the only thing most people agree on covering is the tires to avoid UV damage.

Mine is winterized in every other sense, but it sits outside, as have four different previous trailers with no problems...

Just wondering your thoughts......

[twinster2]

Well the info on the cover saysit is breathable fabric and also it has ventilation holes under the top roof flap. For $185 with a three year warranty, it is cheaper than renting a space in a barn for three winters. I guess time will tell if it is the right choice.

[DiverRick]

If only I had room on my property (live in the 'burbs)

There is no indoor space available in m y area, so I am have to pay $35/month for outside in a farmer's field.

Interesting about the "breathable" fabric. Sounds like it solves the problem that most of us were warned about in the past.

Now if I could guarantee no mice getting in! (Yes I do *everything* recommended). I missed an opening last year and paid for it in the spring....

[Eagle]

Originally Posted by DiverRick

If only I had room on my property (live in the 'burbs)

There is no indoor space available in m y area, so I am have to pay $35/month for outside in a farmer's field.

Interesting about the "breathable" fabric. Sounds like it solves the problem that most of us were warned about in the past.

Now if I could guarantee no mice getting in! (Yes I do *everything* recommended). I missed an opening last year and paid for it in the spring....

Best product ever found to keep mice away is Cab Fresh.....sold at WalMart, on Ebay, many farm/home stores, Amazon and various other places on the internet.

BOTTOM LINE: IT' WORKS BETTER THAN ANYTHING ELSE!!

Fresh Cab Rodent Repellent - Box of 4 | QC Supply

[DiverRick]

Originally Posted by Eagle

Best product ever found to keep mice away is Cab Fresh.....sold at WalMart, on Ebay, many farm/home stores, Amazon and various other places on the internet.

Thanks, I have added a product like that this year..... I'll let you know at the end of April!

[Eagle]

I use it every fall when my camper goes into storage and NEVER had a mouse issue.

Many farmers toss the pouches in their combines that may sit for all but a few weeks use annually and tractor cabs to keep mice away with equal success.

Some say soap, dryer sheets, etc. but I've seen mice actually EAT soap so only use Fresh Cab!

[roy]

Mine went under cover 2 weeks ago and under a new cover. Last one lasted 4 years. Money well spent.

I'll uncover it late feb or mid march 2017. Rodents never a problem since there's a cat roaming the property year round.

[Michigantraveler]

We took our 189fbr to its winter home yesterday. We were happy to find a brand new barn with a concrete floor for her. The price was right and he said he only needs a couple of days notice when we want to get her out. We paid him until the end of April. Glad she is out of the weather this year. It's supposed to be an interesting winter here in northern Michigan. 21 degrees this morning. Pictures on my gallery page.

[Eagle]

I hope you put plywood under the tires.

[furboo]

Originally Posted by Eagle

I hope you put plywood under the tires.

I'm no doubt stepping into something, buy why?

[Eagle]

Actually, this is what Michelin says on its website:

Also, some storage surfaces can cause tires to age faster. That’s why Michelin recommends placing a barrier (cardboard, plastic or plywood) between the tire and the storage surface.


Since the statement says "some" surfaces but doesn't specify which, it doesn't provide much guidance. Furthermore, neither cardboard nor plywood would qualify as a vapor barrier so the intent is even more unclear.

[Michigantraveler]

Who knows? Is anything the absolute truth anymore?

[Eagle]

Originally Posted by Michigantraveler

Who knows? Is anything the absolute truth anymore?

IF it's on the internet, it MUST be true!

[twinster2]

This summer I laid four concrete pads for the wheels of my FF to be on during the winter months. I thought parking on concrete is the best surface you can leave a car or trailer on. Never heard of using plywood and I don't know the purpose of putting wood between concrete and the tire.

[APD]

I know asphalt is bad, it can attack tires if left long term.
The plywood idea is just for a little extra insulation between the tire and the colder concrete surface. How much it helps is pure conjecture.
If parking on gravel, I could see where plywood would level out the contact surface.

[John_C]

This thread sparked my interest and I started a little research...
It is also well known that it is best to store your RV/Trailer with weight off the tires and pressure dropped to about 10 psi, protected from sun, moisture, excessive ozone, etc. But what if like so many of us that leave the tires on the RV and do not put the rig on blocks...

I also found where it discussed asphalt storage (of tires) and recommended against it due to the possibly of high heat due the asphalt absorbing heat and said that tires parked on asphalt have been seen to reach temps of 135 deg F... I guessing somewhere in the southwest, not MN in the winter... Maybe why Michelin says to park on a piece of plywood

However, I found the following (regarding RV storage) on the Goodyear site:

Storing Your Vehicle Without Removing the Tires
Ideally, a vehicle in storage should be placed on blocks to remove all weight from the tires. If the vehicle cannot be put on blocks, follow these steps for tire protection:

• Completely unload the vehicle so that minimum weight will be placed on the tires
• Inflate tires to recommended operating pressure plus 25%. Ensure that the rim manufacturer’s inflation capacity is not exceeded
• Be sure the storage surface is firm, clean, well drained and reasonably level
• Avoid moving the vehicle during extremely cold weather
• Move the vehicle at least every three months to prevent ozone cracking in the tire bulge area, as well as “flat-spotting” from the prolonged strain of sidewall and tread deflection
• Adjust inflation before putting the vehicle back into service.

Just more food to confuse the brain, but I will probably park my trailer differently... I have been just parking it and covering the trailer and tires...

Happy Storing and hope to see, at least, some of you next season...

[twinster2]

Over inflation makes sense to me. After all, vehicle manufactures inflate tires to 40 to 50 psi when the normal operating pressure is 30 -35 psi. They do that to prevent flat spotting when the vehicles are setting around on dealership parking lots. Speaking of dealerships parking lots, since most are asphalt, I doubt that parking tires on asphalt is much of a concern either. I talked to a Discount Tire manager the other day and he said the best thing you can do for your trailer tires during storage is to park it on a hard surface that is well drained and protect them from sun light. He also suggested spraying them with Armor All. Fortunately, the trailer cover I purchase literally hangs down to the bottom of my tires which are sitting on concrete slabs. I also sprayed them with Armor All before I stored it.

[Eagle]

Armor All = had very bad results years ago. The contents contained compounds that would ruin plastics.

Armor All used a different formula many years ago, containing dimethyl silicone oils (not water based), and it got a bad name because of it. A bad name that for them, unfortunately, still lives on in the minds of many people.

Truth be told they have been a water based silicone for many years now, and their product isn't a whole lot different than the other rubber / vinyl protectants available. They don't have the higher concentrations of UV inhibitors that 303 Protectant, & Vinylex and a couple others do, but that's 1 reason they ( 303 etc.) cost more than Armor All. UV additives are the most expensive ingredients, arguably, in those products, so you get what you pay for to that extent.

What are the ingredients in Armor All® Protectants? Do they include silicone, alcohol, ultraviolet inhibitors and petroleum distillates?

Armor All® Leather Care contains lanolin and natural moisturizers, and UV inhibitors.
Armor All® Leather Care Protectant Spray and Leather Wipes contain water-based silicone emulsions, surfactants, and ultraviolet light inhibitors.
Armor All® Original Shine Protectant contains water-based silicone emulsions, surfactants, and ultraviolet light inhibitors, humectants, dispersants and gloss enhancers.
Armor All® Ultimate Clean Protectant contains water-based silicone emulsions, surfactants, ultraviolet light inhibitors and a fragrance.


Because of my experience years back, I avoid Armor All but I do use 303, great product that does the best at UV protection.