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Old 02-18-2018, 11:48 AM   #1
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Default Fresh Water Tank

Any ideas on sourcing a replacement water tank for a 2012 214WSD?

Filled the tank today and found that it was leaking at the drain fitting. Had hoped it was just the threads, but the tank id cracked at the fitting weld. I removed the tank thinking I'd find somebody to do a poly weld on it but after getting it out it's apparent that the previous owners never flushed/sanitized it and there's all sorts of nasty looking growth inside. So, time for a new one I think.

The tank still had the original label on it with the following info:

21436700
Cruiser #473002 Water Tank
7/15/11

Can any of you cyber sleuths help me find a replacement?

Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2018, 04:00 PM   #2
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here maybe ?

RV Water Tanks | RV Fresh Water Tanks | RV Potable Water Tanks
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Old 02-18-2018, 04:15 PM   #3
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Thanks Geo - I did see their site and while they list a bunch of tanks, nothing comes close to what my 214 has/had. My tank is 60" wide X 36" long but only 4-1/2" high. It's a 30 something gallon tank, but everything I've found in that size range is at least twice as deep and will not fit.

The more I look the more I think I may end up having it welded and doing a deep clean...
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Old 02-19-2018, 08:47 AM   #4
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You might try here:
https://ronco-plastics.com/
They have a 40 page catalog of all sizes and types
Or these people would make one:
https://www.sullivanplastic.com/rv-b...MaAkLCEALw_wcB
Probably lots of $$$$ though.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:03 PM   #5
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Well I heard back from Cruiser RV parts dept. and they advised that the tank was made by Elkhart Plastics and I should try contacting them. So, email has been sent and we'll see. Not holding my breath for a positive outcome since they (EP) notes that they do not sell to consumers, only to OEMs.

It's looking more and more like I'll just have to find someone who can do a poly weld and then do a serious cleaning before reinstalling the tank.
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Old 03-20-2018, 07:11 PM   #6
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Before you replace the tank, why not try https://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty. I just repaired our house fiberglass tub with this stuff & it's phenomenal. NSF certified & potable water safe. 25 mins to water exposure with one hour cure time.

Could save you a pretty penny & it's super easy to use! I'm definitely keeping it stocked in my trailer at all times from now on!
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Old 03-22-2018, 02:15 PM   #7
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Thanks for the input, but I ended up with a different solution:

After pulling the tank and doing a more in-depth inspection, I determined that the crack was actually in the bulkhead fitting that was welded to the side of the tank for the drain. I cut the welded fitting off and then drilled and tapped directly into the bottom of the tank for a new, oversize fitting. While it was out I did a full interior clean and sanitize of the tank and all of the lines. During the tank and lines inspections and tracing, I found that the output line from the tank to the pump was in the side of the tank and was about an inch and a half above the bottom where it could not draw all of the water out of the tank, essentially leaving 1/3 of tank capacity unusable. Soooo, instead of installing a larger drain fitting, I replaced it with a thread X barb nylon elbow and plugged the old outlet on the side. I ran a new line to the new outlet and now have zero leaks and my pump draws from the bottom of the tank, not the side. Yes I did away with the petcock drain, but it'll be easy enough to merely remove the hose from the outlet fitting to drain the tank should I ever need to.
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Old 03-22-2018, 08:51 PM   #8
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SWFL, I paid my dealer to do exactly the same thing -- put the drain at the bottom, no petcock. It works great! My hat is off to you for doing the job yourself -- not an easy task.
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Old 05-21-2019, 09:46 AM   #9
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SWFL, could you possibly post a pic of the new outlet you made for your fresh water tank? I have a 2011 X-214wsd, your mod sounds like a great idea to access more fresh water.
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:51 AM   #10
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I'll take one in the next couple of days and post it.
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Old 05-23-2019, 05:11 PM   #11
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I was once told that the reason the water pick up tube/hose is not resting on the bottom of the tank is so that it does not pick up any solids, dirt, debris or anything that has settled on the bottom of the tank. Yes-wastes a lot of water tank capacity, I think the camper's internal/in line filters add a second line of defense. And-I filter all water before it goes in to the tank. I know I hate filling my tank and only getting about 2/3 of the water before the pump starts sucking air.
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Old 05-24-2019, 05:59 AM   #12
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From what I've read, the fresh water tanks (kinda white in color) are made of HDPE which is a high density polyethylene plastic .. the same thing milk jugs are made of.
The repair method is to 'plastic weld' them and glue will NOT stick nor bond on HDPE material.

I did find there is a 'glue' specifically made to repair HDPE tanks. One must 'flame the repair area' with a propane torch, test with water so it 'sheets, not beads' before applying the glue. Fiberglass material may be added to the applied glue for strength.

The glue used was "Mr. Sticky's Poly-Bonder" that seals/bonds Polyethylene, Starboard, PVC, ABS, Hypalon, Lexan, Fiberglass, Wood, Metal, Glass, etc. www.mrstickys.com is the web site. It is mfg by AAI, Fair Oaks, California.

Yes, it does work and used it to repair the fresh water tank in my XT276. I failed to leave the drain petcock open over winter storage, allowing a little water to freeze and bust the internal threaded 'boss' the petcock screws into.
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