Frustrated at Atwood HE-0601 fridge

[gmw photographics]

A few comments on the idea of adding insulation as described in this thread. Neill, your situation where the fridge sat below the cabinet, inside the trailer, I agree, that was an install that cried out for the mod you did. Well done. Same with your situation Dan.

However, the way these 6 cu ft "stacked design" ( top freezer, bottom fridge ) are installed in the slideout room of a 189FDS, is different. The top of the unit is very close indeed to the "roof" of the slideout room. There is essentially no room to add insulation up there. The sides (walls ) already have 1" fiberglass mat insulation installed. There is no room for more to be added.
And yes, as noted, the "two vents" on the side of the trailer are in fact a lower intake and top exhaust. The small 12V fan ( I replaced my original, small, noisy one with a higher quality, ball bearing, larger one from a computer store ) sits essentially at "the lower edge of the top vent". It blows upward of course, and circulates air over the coils at the top, and aids in keeping air moving out of the enclosure.
It could be argued that having the fridge out in the slide out is a "good thing" in hot weather, as at least some of it's heat could in theory escape through the uninsulated top panel (roof) of the slideroom. The opposite argument could be made for cold weather I suppose.

My 189FDS has the Dometic unit. The 12V fan runs occasionally/regularly, even in cool to cold weather. As you would expect it runs more often and for longer periods during hot weather. This unit is the old style ammonia absorbtion. It works correctly from sea level to the highest places I have been in Colorado ( over 10K feet ) in all weather from below 20 degrees outside to well over 100. I "think" it's ability to move heat out of the back of the enclosure to the great outdoor seems to work correctly, because I can't say that I have noticed it "adding any significant heat" to the interior of the camper.

Hope this helps.

[michellep]

Ladies and Gentlemen, presenting the new AND improved Fun Finder refrigerator - the Dometic 2662.

However, I CANNOT find the climate control switch, which I was assured by Dometic was under the decorative plate that houses the control panel...

Since I could not find the switch, I sent them these pictures asking where in the heck the switch was...I gave them the model and serial number.

[michellep]

Two replies from Dometic:

Hi Michelle,
On the DM2662 there is a climate control system. This is built into the unit and is not able to be turned off/on.

Hi Michelle,
The power draw would be approximately .5 amp per hour. Dometic would not recommend adding a switch.
Also, an alteration of the unit could void the warranty on the refrigerator.

[profdant139]

Oh, for goodness sakes. Will you ever get a break with this fridge? What did they say when you told them that they had falsely stated that there was a switch?? Did the dealer misrepresent the truth, or was it the manufacturer? Is the circuit that controls the climate thing built into the control board?

Half an amp an hour is quite a bit for boondocking -- it means a 12 amp draw per day. If you have group 31 batteries, which are rated at 110 amp hours, you would not want to draw them down past 12.1 volts, or 50 percent of capacity, or 55 amps. So just for the fridge alone, that would limit you to three days on that battery without charging.

If I recall correctly, you have solar panels. How many watts? That will tell us a lot about your ability to manage the extra load from the fridge. And how did the panels work when you were in those shady campgrounds in Idaho on your last big trip?

I am suffering from terrible vicarious battery draw anxiety, as you can tell.

[michellep]

Originally Posted by profdant139

...I am suffering from terrible vicarious battery draw anxiety, as you can tell.

ME, TOO, except for the vicarious part...

Next time I boondock, I'll just use a damn cooler. Maybe for Christmas, I'll get myself a small Yeti (their tumbler is out of this world effective).

I have a 100W really thin panel, and then my original, regular-sized 100W. I would prefer to travel on a boondocking kind of trip with the thin one. Our photographic friend has shamed me into culling the contents I take with me. He would be so proud of me today!!! I also have my Honda eu1000...

I was more than bummed about the fridge and its dang whatever-purpose-it-serves draw!! I was wondering if it's "ON" all the time. Does anyone know? Or does it go on/off as needed? Under what circumstances does it turn on?

Sigh.

[LJAZ]

Originally Posted by michellep

I was more than bummed about the fridge and its dang whatever-purpose-it-serves draw!! I was wondering if it's "ON" all the time. Does anyone know? Or does it go on/off as needed? Under what circumstances does it turn on?

Sigh.

The purpose is to keep condensation and/or frost from building up around the doors. Not much of an issue where I live so I've always kept it turned off. Without the switch its going to run all of the time. Dometic must have hired a bean counter who decided they could save $.05 per fridge.

How long is the warranty? A year? Maybe try living with it for a year and then if it's a pain - have a switch installed.

[michellep]

Well, yet ANOTHER issue maybe you guys can answer.

I had the trailer in my driveway since yesterday when I picked it up. Just now, I decided to move it back to its new garage. About 20 minutes or so ago, I turned the fridge completely OFF - not gas, not 120v. The fan is still running and has been the entire time.

That sure doesn't sound right to me.
But I could be (and usually am) wrong...

[LJAZ]

So you're saying the fan has been running for more than a day?!! If that's the case you're dealer wired it wrong.

[michellep]

No, it seems to have run for about 20 minutes or so. The head tech called me this morning and this fan is not wired to the power of the fridge - it is clamped on something and won't shut off until the temp reaches a certain number.

The only way for me to shut off the fan when the fridge is turned off is to yank the fuse. I guess others fridges are wired in such a way as the fan goes off when the fridge is turned off. But not mine. Figures.

I am taking the damn thing out and replacing it with a big Yeti cooler!

Does anyone know if the climate control system on a Dometic (the thing that heats the seals to keep ice from forming) runs 24/7?

[jtwcummins]

Since I am having issues with the installed Atwood, same as your issue, I did some research on the Dometic. The heaters in seals come on when the door is opened and off when closed.
The issue with the fan is a tech who is not up to speed, being nice here. The fan should turn on and off with main fridge power. If it's cool outside it won't run. Has a thermistor and only runs when outside temp reaches a certain level or sun is directly shining on the wall raising temp.
I just had the Atwood's cooling unit replaced, plugged. Dealer keeps unit for 1 - 3 weeks and fixes some things. I refuse to go back to them. Have 2 mobile RV techs in this area with industry and manufacurer certs. I will pay the labor to get things fixed right. They have direct lines to contact support and can do work under warranty, but I will pay labor if needed to get things done quickly at my home.
My unit isn't any worse or better than other brands in this price range. Opinions are formed more on incompetant service dept. than unit quality.

[michellep]

Tech told me about "some" fans that go on/off with power to fridge. He said this one, however, did not. It would not stop until it reached the shut off temp.

I am so sick of dealing with this whole fridge thing, I'll just pull the dang fuse if/when I have to.

Sorry you're having the same issues. There are others having similar issues with the Atwood helium...

Thanks for the info on the heater thing. But if it's only "on" when the door is open, is that enough time for it to do its job?

[michellep]

Here is the reply I just received from Dometic:

With the climate control system, as long as the refrigerator is on the climate control will pull .5 amp per hour.

[michellep]

Originally Posted by jtwcummins

Since I am having issues with the installed Atwood, same as your issue, I did some research on the Dometic. The heaters in seals come on when the door is opened and off when closed.

Since Dometic emailed me erroneous information previously, can you tell me where you read that about on and off with the doors?

Thanks.

[LJAZ]

It would not have been difficult to wire the fan so that it turned off when the fridge was off. I imagine Dometic probably makes a wiring harness to do just that for fridges to be installed in a slideout. I'm thinking this is an issue with your dealer's service techs. Probably the same guy who wired your 120 V outlet. On the other hand it should be too much of an issue. When you're using the trialer the fan will run when it needs to and turn off as it should when not needed. When you park it home just pull the batteru disconnect switch & that should take care of it.

On the climate control heater I had always heard that it runs full time. Doesn't seem like it would do much to prevent condensation if it only ran when the door was open. But I've been wrong before.

[michellep]

Originally Posted by LJAZ

...On the climate control heater I had always heard that it runs full time. Doesn't seem like it would do much to prevent condensation if it only ran when the door was open. But I've been wrong before.

On my fridge, I discovered that the heater thing is wired to the interior light. If I can live without the light (which I can), all I have to do is disconnect this metal thing with the 2 wires on the left (I'm guessing it can be gently "pulled" and that it's (the silver part) not soldered?).



There's a whole discussion about it over on rv dot net:

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/28541911.cfm[/url]

[Eagle]

Did you receive the owners manual for your new frig? You said it was a 2662 model.

Here is the manual if you didn't receive one:
http://www2.dometic.com/31a5c621-4a0...a0f165f1.fodoc

[michellep]

Yes, I got the installation and the operations manuals. Thanks though. I scanned the wiring diagram and posted it, and that's how the people over on rv dot net told me what to do to turn off the heater thing!

Now, I'm involved in an over-my-head discussion about converters. And the frustrating thing is - NOBODY ever agrees. One says this Progressive Dynamics; the other says no, get the Iota 30A.

Some of it ("it" being the electrical information) is starting to sink in a little - about the boost mode and how fast the little Honda can charge my battery. And how my Honda is not "big" enough to properly charge the WFCO 55A that I have. I need to re-read everything at least twice!

Yes, there is someone who says I overthink things. And I do. But I am a boondock lover and I want to optimize my battery usage, while considering all of my particular issues (like, no a bigger Honda won't work - I can't lift it).

So, maybe you guys have an opinion on the PD45 with the Charge Wizard pendant vs. the Iota 30A with the IQ thing...???

[profdant139]

Michelle, congrats on finding the solution -- if the spade connector will just slide off the prongs to the light, does that kill the heater? Is there a way to test to see if that is true? If it is, hurrah!

I get so tired of the macho chest thumping on the tech forum in rv dot net -- everyone trying to use the most obscure language possible, just to show how smart they supposedly are. I tell my students (future lawyers!) that as the concepts get more complicated, the language has to get simpler and clearer. Otherwise the reader can't follow the discussion.

Anyway, why are you replacing your converter?? I missed that part of the discussion. Sorry.

[michellep]

LIke I said over on rv dot net (maybe it was in a private message), these guys forget their audience...

Anyway, guys have disconnected that wire in the outside panel OR cut the thicker wire inside the fridge and it supposedly worked. I'm not going to cut any wires, that's fore sure. I have to see if that thing just slides off. I have a ham radio guy who's a wiring genius and I'll see him up in Chicago in a few weeks (Chicago suburbs FINALLY got a really cool Forest Preserve campground). He can do it for me! Oh, who am I kidding - I'll try it later this afternoon.

When I replaced the converter on the other trailer, it was because the original was not very efficient at charging with the generator. I don't understand all the technical stuff, nor can I even put it into words. But my little Honda will do a better job with a different converter. I am still in the research stage.

I'll let you know in a little bit if that fridge light thing "slides" off. I am hoping it is not soldered...

[Travels with Yoly]

Looks like a standard spade connector to me .... should pull off with a good tug (preferable with a pair of pliers for a good grip). When I was trying to diagnose my fridge problems in our second trailer, the Dometic tech wanted me to bypass their control board to isolate the cause and there were four of those connectors and they pulled right off with a good tug (and sometimes with just a bit of an up & down wiggle while pulling).