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Old 05-09-2008, 11:44 PM   #1
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Default Leveling

I have a new FF 160, and I'm having some problems with my refrigerator that I think may be due to improper leveling. I've been using a small circle level that I put on the refrigerator floor, and I can never get the trailer so perfectly level that the bubble is entirely in the circle--very close but no cigar! Exactly how level does the trailer need to be in order for everything to function properly? And does anyone know any tricks for getting everything perfectly level?
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Old 05-12-2008, 04:43 PM   #2
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I level out our trailer to the point where it is comfortable to walk/sit and sleep. Sometimes it is hard to get 100% level, but I have never had a problem with any appliances.

Below is a great site to get basic info, and the text quoted below is from that site. I also included a link to lynx levelers. I have 2 sets of leveling blocks and they come in very handy. If you have any other questions, let me know!

http://www.rvtowingtips.com/

http://www.lynxlevelers.com/

There are leveling jacks....................and there are stabilizers

Stabilizers do just that, stabilize. They do not lift, and are not designed to support much, if any, weight.

Leveling jacks, sometimes called "leveling stabilizer jacks", will (usually) be able lift and support some weight of the trailer. The BAL brand jacks that came on my trailer are rated to lift 5,000# each (there are 4 on my trailer). However, BAL also recommends that you not raise the trailer completely off the ground using the scissor jacks.



Regardless of which type you have, get the trailer level from side to side first. I would recommend to get some of the plastic leveling blocks. I like the Lynx blocks myself, especially now that they have a wheel chock add-on. They are real easy to clean off. If you need to raise it more than one block (1 ½”), put 2 flat on the ground and overlap another one on top of the bottom two. This will raise the tires 2 ½” off the ground and make it easy to drive on and off. I wouldn’t go any higher than 2 blocks because it may make it difficult or impossible for your stabilizers or leveling jacks to do any good without also adding some blocks under them as well. It might be easier to move the trailer around to a spot that is a little more level.

You can also use wooden boards under the tires to level out the trailer. Make sure you use boards that are at least as wide as the tires are. A few half-inch and a few one inch thick boards should do the trick. You may be able to find some scraps at a local lumber yard for free. If not, and you end up buying an 8' long board, just cut it up into the desired lengths and you'll have some spares. You may want to consider painting or treating the wood somehow so it will last longer. For the length, consider if you will be using wheel chocks or not. If so, make the boards long enough to fit the tire and the wheel chock.

Once you have the trailer level side to side, unhitch and level it up from front to rear.



If you have “stabilizers”, put them down as firmly as you can to reduce trailer movement, but do not over-tighten as this may cause damage to the stabilizers.



If you have “leveling jacks”, you can use them to do some fine-tuning for getting your trailer level if the boards or blocks under the tires didn't get it close enough to level for your liking. Here is the process I have been using since 2001:

1. Lower the front of the trailer about one inch with the tongue jack.
2. Lower the rear leveling jacks until they are snug on the ground.
If one side of the trailer is just a little higher than the other, crank the jack
on the high side back up 1-2 turns.
3. Use the tongue jack to raise the front of the trailer to get the trailer level.
4. Lower the front leveling jacks until they are snug on the ground.
5. Raise the tongue jack slightly so that the trailer weight is on the leveling
jacks and tires. Keep the tongue jack down in case one of the front
leveling jacks fail.

You can also use this process to take some of the wiggle and bounce out of the trailer while you are inside. What this process does is take just a little weight off of the trailer suspension, which is where most of the wiggle and bounce comes from.

Some people will disagree with my method claiming it will torque or twist the frame and cause problems with doors or windows not opening/closing correctly. But I have confirmed this process with my dealer and the Fleetwood Service department, who all agrees that this process should not cause any of these problems if this process is done correctly. Check with your dealer or manufacturer to verify the correct leveling procedure for your trailer.



Make sure you have wheel chocks on both sides if you are on any kind of hill or slope. If you have tandem axles, use one of those wheel chocks designed to go between the tires, especially on the side that is raised up on leveling blocks. Camping World has a couple different varieties. Do a search for "wheel chock". Also check out Rotochok.



Another option to the Lynx blocks (or other brands) or using wood blocks are the Level-Air air bags. A rather ingenious product that works very well.
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:44 PM   #3
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Thanks so much for the information. I'm going camping this weekend, and I'll try it out. I have another newbie question: do the Lynx blocks go under the stabilizer jacks, or do they go under the wheels?
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:23 AM   #4
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The Lynx Blocks can be used pretty much in any fashion you need. I have used them under the trailer wheels, under the Nissans wheels, under the stabilize jacks, under the sewage hose, pretty much anywhere! They are lite weight, interlock for stability and are very durable.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:43 PM   #5
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Thanks very much for the help. I'll try it out this weekend!
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:13 PM   #6
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Default BAL Tire Leveler

Sally, everything shared with you by Keyser Soze is right on but there's a new contraption out by BAL that is absolutely perfect for side-to-side leveling. It's called the BAL Tire Leveler for single axle trailers. The part number is 28050 and is available through Camping World. It simply fits around the tire on the low side and you easily crank it up until it's level. Works great and runs about $70. Just another thought. Have a great camping season.
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Old 05-18-2008, 09:09 PM   #7
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Thanks! I'll check it out!
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Old 06-02-2008, 10:31 PM   #8
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Wow! I got the BAL tire leveler and tried it out this weekend. It's wonderful! I got the trailer leveled with no problem, and much much easier than trying to do it with boards. Thanks so much for the suggestion!
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Old 06-24-2008, 11:56 PM   #9
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I'm glad to hear the BAL leveler worked well for you. I am amazed at how simple it is and how easy it is to use. We certainly like ours! Whoever designed this had to be a genius! Again, have a great vacation/holiday season!
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