Might be having a problem with the Refrigerator

twinster2 · 03-25-2017, 09:30 PM

While doing some mods on the FF, I decided to test out the refrigerator unit. Since the LP tank is turned off, I figured it would go automatically to 110 volt cooling. Instead, it tried to light the LP three times, then displayed a Check light. Does the system have to be pressurized with LP first before it automatically switches to AC. Also, the unit was set to Automatic so it should have switched over. Any thoughts about what might be going?

**LJAZ** · 03-25-2017, 09:58 PM

Hmm, I would think it should just fire up on electric if as your on shore power and bypass the gas altogether as electric is the default on automatic. But to be honest I've never tried it with the gas off.

APD · 03-25-2017, 10:18 PM

Ours looks for LP (turns the check light on) and then goes on electric when the LP is off. I've never noticed/investigated exactly how it does that automatically.
Without a pressure switch or some other sensor it seems to me that it would need to rely on the thermacouple. No thermacouple output equals no LP?
I'll have to check that out.

twinster2 · 03-26-2017, 03:32 PM

Well damn. I figured out what was wrong and it was a shock, literally. So here is the deal. As many of you know, I have been installing a dual gas/electric water heater switch in the FF189FBR. Being a smart guy, the first thing I did was turn the circuit breaker off for the water heater which was listed as the last circuit on the fuse box. The one above it was labeled refrigerator. So I cannot get the frig to start on AC, only gas. So I sideline that activity and started working on the water heater mod. Zap. What the hell. I double checked the fuse box. Yes, the water heater was off. I think you know where I going with this. So I go outside, open up the back of the frig and check to see if it is getting power. Nope, no power. Go inside and turn on the water heater fuse, then go outside to check the power in the back of the frig. Yep,I got power. Turns out the manufacture mislabeled the electrical panel. What a bunch of clowns. So just a word of advice, check your electrical panel to make sure everything matches up with the device it is suppose to power.

PaintyLiz · 03-26-2017, 03:59 PM

Wow! Glad you didn't light yourself up

I was following this discussion because we weren't sure if the refrig worked without gas, but thought it did. It DOESN'T work without 12v power, however. That was going to be my suggestion if you couldn't get it working. We had the inverter die on our ff, and even if I plugged the refrigerator directly into an extension cord, it did not work. When I replaced the inverter, it worked fine. So, there must be some igniter or something that works from 12v. Or else what???

Liz

twinster2 · 03-26-2017, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaintyLiz

So, there must be some igniter or something that works from 12v. Or else what??? Liz

I looked at the manual for the refrigerator. It turns out that the controller unit (i.e. brains) and LP gas ignition and solenoid works off of 12 volts DC and the electric heater coil works off of 120 Volts AC. So for the unit to run on AC, it must receive both 12 volts DC and 110 Volts AC.

PaintyLiz · 03-27-2017, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinster2

I looked at the manual for the refrigerator. It turns out that the controller unit (i.e. brains) and LP gas ignition and solenoid works off of 12 volts DC and the electric heater coil works off of 120 Volts AC. So for the unit to run on AC, it must receive both 12 volts DC and 110 Volts AC.

Now that's very irritating! That means if we are dry camping, and the battery runs out we won't have a refrigerator, even if we have plenty of gas. Since it is only two way (elec/gas) it's frustrating that it requires DC. I guess that is just so they can use the same controllers as the three way (elec/gas/DC) versions.

Or... Since you have the book.... Is it three way and I just don't know it?? Lol I don't think so.

Liz

APD · 03-27-2017, 12:17 PM

I'm glad you didn't get bit badly.

Note to self:
Check that the power is really off before beginning work.

**LJAZ** · 03-28-2017, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaintyLiz

Now that's very irritating! That means if we are dry camping, and the battery runs out we won't have a refrigerator, even if we have plenty of gas. Since it is only two way (elec/gas) it's frustrating that it requires DC. I guess that is just so they can use the same controllers as the three way (elec/gas/DC) versions.

Or... Since you have the book.... Is it three way and I just don't know it?? Lol I don't think so.

Liz

You need the 12V to run the circuit board that controls the fridge. It also provides the spark the ignites the burner when you're on propane.
Doubtful that the fridge itself runs on 12V, they do make them but they aren't very common. Running a fridge on 12V will drain the battery pretty darn quick as well.

twinster2 · 03-28-2017, 12:38 PM

Those three way RV refrigerators running off of 12 volts only don't work that well. I had one in my old Coleman popup and the only thing it did was run the battery down. The reason is that they must heat the ammonia coolant in the frig the same way the propane flame and AC heater coil does but 12 volt just does not get hot enough. Now if they combined the current ammonia coolant system with a a thermoelectric unit (the kind used for coolers in the car), they might have a half way decent 3 way refrigerator, but that would cost more money and we know RV maufactures hate to spend more on their builds