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Old 11-03-2016, 08:05 PM   #11
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That was the reason for the cleats, to secure the bike from vibrating. I was planning on using a bungee straps from the cleats to each bike wheel.
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:13 PM   #12
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Unfortunately, I have found that bungees often don't damp the vibration -- they can accentuate it. I prefer nylon straps -- they don't stretch.
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Old 11-04-2016, 02:39 PM   #13
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I like this idea! I am sure I could fabricate something like it with perforated square steel tubing, the kind they use to support street signs. Very sturdy stuff.

So now the other question is this -- how to keep the bike rack from vibrating? With all of that leverage from the weight of the bikes, there is bound to be harmonic oscillation. When I put a rack on the back of my truck, there are straps to dampen the vibration. How would I accomplish the same thing on the back of the trailer, since the back wall of the trailer is not built to handle much of a load?

(And I promise that I am not hijacking Twinster's thread here -- this is directly relevant to his question about stabilizing the bike rack.)

If I was building the rack to fit my FF... I would probably try to make the hitch extend rearward to just clear the rear of the rear of the trailer and add a cleat to each end extending an inch or two with a hole for a 3/8" - 1/2" bolt. Then add metal bracing at about 1"x 1/8" to 3/16" to each of these cleats, extending at an inward and rearward angle up to the bike rack... these should be bolted for easy removal if the bike rack needs to be removed. The bike rack should extend at least a foot or so back allowing sufficient angle in these two braces to greatly reduce vibration and rack movement...
I'd probably start with something like below... 2" x 2" Unistrut may be strong enough, but I would likely lean to the overbuild and go with angle... I'd hate the thing to dump my bike in front of a car causing an accident ... I also have a welder and weld; so, I would weld all hitch and rack junctures, then bolt the hitch under the frame. I would bolt the two rack braces to the hitch frame and rack, then, bolt the rack to the hitch in lieu of pinning, to reduce movement...
Whoops ... I forgot t add gussets to the hitch tube in the center of the hitch and edited the pic below, there should be a gusset plate under and over the tube to hitch frame to reduce twisting at the tube to hitch frame welds... Remember, this a light duty hitch and I accept no responsibility for these ideas...

Anyway, just my $0.02 worth...
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Old 11-04-2016, 04:18 PM   #14
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John, the angle braces are brilliant!

What's a gusset?
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Old 11-05-2016, 06:45 PM   #15
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John, the angle braces are brilliant!
What's a gusset?
Thank you, I am not crazy about bolting much to these walls... there is just not much there, in my opinion anyway...

A gusset is an angular (usually triangular in shape) piece welded to the inside of two members or overlays one or both sides of two tube members to reduce movement... I shaded the gussets below...

If you are making this or having a shop/buddy weld it up, it would be real easy to add several 5/16" links from a chain to give you tie-downs for rope/bungees to hold the bike in one position on the rack... They would be good to add a bike cable & lock also...

Just a thought... I found a steel fabrication shop not far from here and often buy steel pieces (AT SCRAP STEEL COST) for my projects. While in AZ, I found a similar, but smaller shop and had them do a couple quick jobs for me... these places are often less expensive than having a large shop do welding and fab for you...
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:38 PM   #16
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Thanks a lot!! I am going to pursue this project, right after our next trip (which is hopefully next week).
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Old 11-06-2016, 03:41 PM   #17
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John-

Thanks for your suggestions. Unfortunately, I do not think it will work with my 2010 FF FBR. Below are a couple of photos I took of the rear frame. As can be seen, any angle iron attached to the bottom of the frame will interfere with the stabilizer jacks. Also, a thin metal plate is wielded to the end of the frame, so running plates along the side of the frame is also prevented. Interestingly, there is a slot on the inside of the frame and a steel V wielded to the bottom of the frame.



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Old 11-06-2016, 04:38 PM   #18
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Twinster, that V is to protect the back end in case you drag it on a steep driveway. If you are having clearance problems, you could install a lift kit -- either flip the axles or raise the torsion bar (if you have a torsion suspension).

But I also have obstacles to installing a bike rack in the manner suggested by John -- the stabilizers get in the way, as do the gray and black tanks themselves. But there may be a way around it -- if I were to add a spacer to the cross members of the frames, I could gain some clearance for John's clever bike rack design. It would cost me some ground clearance, but it might be worthwhile.
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:26 PM   #19
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Yea, I thought that is probably what the V was for. I am curious how Cruser installed their optional bike rake, Does anyone on here have the Cruser custom bike rack?
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:13 PM   #20
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Hi Guys,
I can see what you are up against... I believe you could make a rack to fit the rear, but not sure if the effort is worth the gain...

What does your tongue area look like

I have added a photo of the tongue of my FF as first received? I have since added a white PVC Propane Bottle Cover and changed the single grp. 24 battery and box to two grp. 31 batteries and boxes. My FF also came with an angle iron cage with expanded metal floor bolted to the tongue. The tire carrier is mounted under the tongue and I bolted the battery boxes to the expanded metal cage floor.

There is an angle all around the perimeter of the cage approx. a 2" to 3" high (I can measure tomorrow and take better pictures if you want) that would make installing a rack a piece of cake...

It is difficult to see in your pics, but I guess the big questions are... is the tongue long enough to allow room to mount a rack; would that work for you; and would you want to carry the bikes up front
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