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Old 05-18-2019, 02:33 PM   #1
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Exclamation Water tank issue

First trip in my 2011 funfinder 24ft travel trailer. Filled the water tank as thereís no city water where we are camping. Turned on the pump and get very little water from any faucet and water is pouring out the city water connection. What would make this happen? Did I miss switching a cable somewhere?
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:34 PM   #2
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There is almost no overlap between the fresh water tank and the city water connection. It sounds sort of like the pump is pushing the fresh water out of the tank, meeting some sort of resistance, and is then diverting the outflow to the city water fixture.

I wonder if someone winterized the trailer and turned off the supply knobs leading from the pump to the plumbing fixtures? I'm just speculating -- I do not know how your trailer is plumbed.

When you bought the trailer, did the faucets work during the inspection?
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:56 PM   #3
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Hi the trailer was winterized when we bought it so didnít see the faucets work. Each fixture does get water just not much pressure since itís also blowing out the city water connection outside. Iím wondering if there is a switch somewhere outside to switch from city water to the tank? I didnít see anything but donít know if this is common?
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:51 PM   #4
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I had a problem that turned out to be that the water pump would not stop the flow from the city water and water poured out of the tank. My solution was to add a check valve in series with the pump to prevent reverse flow through the pump. There is also a 2-way valve which needs to be in the right position.
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Old 05-19-2019, 07:49 PM   #5
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The city water input fitting has a one way check valve in it. When city water pressure is applied, it flows into the same water lines in the trailer as the pump flows tank water into. This valve has gotten canted off its seat and is allowing water to backflow out. If you look into the garden hose fitting on outside wall you should see the little plastic valve in there, off center. Carefully use a small screwdriver or even a toothpick, to re-center the valve. It should pop back into place. If this doesn't work, you can attach your hose to the water inlet, fold it in two and pinch it shut with something. As a temporary measure to get you by on the trip.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:26 PM   #6
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Code2e,
Thanks for your comment. Your FunFinder apparently is plumbed differently than mine. My pump is in the kitchen island and the output is the cold water line which first runs to the kitchen sink and then further away to the bathroom and city inlet. The pump output appears to receive the city water pressure whenever I am connected to city water. The one way check valves which are part of the pump are expected to block the water from back flowing through the pump. After I added the additional check valve at the output of the pump I have not had a problem with the water tank being filled by the city water.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:36 PM   #7
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code2e, that is a great diagnosis! I am hoping that Lisa sees it soon and lets us know if that was the issue. Lisa??
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:51 PM   #8
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MY Fun Finder is plumbed the same way as yours. There is indeed a one way check valve in the water pump. It does keep city water from backflowing thru pump into tank. There is also the one way check I described in the city water inlet that keeps pumped water from flowing outside. The only way water can flow out that inlet is when the valve is canted out of place or missing altogether. This often happens when city water is turned on fast and lines have air in them from winterizing. The flow rate overcomes the weak spring behind the valve.
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:15 PM   #9
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Ah said the blind man, now I see! Yes you are right about the one in the city connection. The ones in my pump seemed easily fouled by lint or threads from the tank. Installing an external check valve seems much more robust and resistant to fouling than the ones in the pump. Perhaps the spring is stronger???
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Old 05-19-2019, 10:39 PM   #10
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You could install an external one way check as long as it flowed enough volume. The original built in valve has worked pretty well for many years. Just turn on the city water slowly to allow the system to pressurize. A new city water inlet, if needed, is readily available any RV parts source. You might even consider one with built in pressure regulator and no longer need one on your hose.
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Old 05-20-2019, 10:19 AM   #11
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code2e,
Thank you for your instruction!
There is always more to learn.
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:58 AM   #12
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It was indeed the pressure valve inside the city water connection. We blocked it as a temporary fix and will need to replace it. Itís stuck open and wonít close. Found a utube video that explained it very well too. Thanks for the replies!!
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Old 05-20-2019, 12:16 PM   #13
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Great news!! Keep asking questions!
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:06 AM   #14
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From what I've read, the fresh water tanks (kinda white in color) are made of HDPE which is a high density polyethylene plastic .. the same thing milk jugs are made of.
The repair method is to 'plastic weld' them and glue will NOT stick nor bond on HDPE material.

I did find there is a 'glue' specifically made to repair HDPE tanks. One must 'flame the repair area' with a propane torch, test with water so it 'sheets, not beads' before applying the glue. Fiberglass material may be added to the applied glue for strength.

The glue used was "Mr. Sticky's Poly-Bonder" that seals/bonds Polyethylene, Starboard, PVC, ABS, Hypalon, Lexan, Fiberglass, Wood, Metal, Glass, etc. www.mrstickys.com is the web site. It is mfg by AAI, Fair Oaks, California.

Yes, it does work and used it to repair the fresh water tank in my XT276. I failed to leave the drain petcock open over winter storage, allowing a little water to freeze and bust the internal threaded 'boss' the petcock screws into.
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