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Old 11-17-2018, 10:07 AM   #1
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Default Winterization struggles

My newbie-ness is showing I guess...

I bypassed the water heater and poured 4 gallons of antifreeze in the potable water tank, turned the farthest tap on and I mostly get air and burbling. An occasional spray that is beginning to spit a tiny bit of pink bubbles - but no stream of liquid.

I read the post about the bypass by the pump to draw the antifreeze directly from the bottle (this after I poured the 4 gals into the tank) - but don’t see such a tap/line/valve on my system (see picture). Also no bypass for switching from city water to tank. Earlier in the season I successfully used the tank to bleach the lines - so I have successfully used the tank and city water both without switching any valves. Assuming just turning the pump on should cause the draw from the tank?

So why is it burbling and trying, but only pumping air and not liquid?

Two immediate thoughts:
1. 4 gallons in the holding tank is not enough liquid for the pump to pump.

2. I’m running the pump off the battery. Is that not enough electricity to sufficiently pump? (I’m pretty sure this isn’t it, because it’s punping air...)

3. Some magical valve combination I am missing...(I’m confident I’ve bypassed to water heater properly).
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Old 11-17-2018, 03:14 PM   #2
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I never pour rv antifreeze into the fresh water tank.

First, locate the low point drains and open them to drain water out of the lines.

I use the valves to by pass (isolate) the hot water heater, insert the suction line into the bottle of rv antifreeze, turn on the pump which sucks the rv antifreeze directly from the container into the water lines, then open the faucets starting at the rear one at a time, both hot and cold including the shower, tub and stool until the pink antifreeze comes out. the 'left over' antifreeze is dumped down the drains - tub, sinks, and stool.

From your photos, I didn't see where you have a 'bypass' kit installed with a rv antifreeze suction line.

This video might help:

A you tube search and you will find several video showing hot to do it.

HOpe this helps.
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Old 11-18-2018, 07:09 AM   #3
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That’s it! Thank you - I’ll be off to Wally World for the winterization Kit....

Do you just leave the winterization Kit I stalked, or remive it when done? When I bought the trailer in June it had been winterized - I wonder if they sucked the antifreeze from the tank or just removed the winterization Kit...
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Old 11-18-2018, 10:32 PM   #4
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I would agree about RV antifreeze not being poured into the freshwater tank. Seeing your picture, the tank seems to have quite a low spot & the pump may not draw the last few gallons. Might tilt the trailer towards the outlet to pump out or just drain it. A less expensive suction line can be made up to draw RV antifreeze straight from the jug. Any RV store would have the fitting and a length of hose. Just remove the suction hose fitting from pump and attach the jug hose in its place. The suction side is the one that goes thru the floor to the tank. It takes far less antifreeze & is far easier to flush lines out in spring. Will take a lot of flushing to get all the antifreeze out of the tank. Good luck.
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Old 11-20-2018, 04:12 PM   #5
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The winterization kit was factory installed on my unit and it is not removed. Simple open/close the valves as needed.
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Old 11-25-2018, 10:25 AM   #6
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I'm still concerned with the winterization of my "new" 2006 T-139. We looked and looked for low point drains, inside and outside. Couldn't find any, anywhere! Can anyone who has/had that model tell me where they are, if they exist? Otherwise, I think I'm ok, that the trailer wasn't used this year. Hopefully, that will be a different story next year!!
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Old 11-25-2018, 02:12 PM   #7
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I never bother with the low point drains. I blow it out with compressed air and then fill with antifreeze. Just make sure no water gets trapped in the bypass section of the plumbing. I always switch the valves in a all directions to make sure. One year I forgot and the lines broke there.
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Old 11-25-2018, 02:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gator View Post
I never bother with the low point drains. I blow it out with compressed air and then fill with antifreeze. Just make sure no water gets trapped in the bypass section of the plumbing. I always switch the valves in a all directions to make sure. One year I forgot and the lines broke there.
I don't/won't have the option to blow it out with compressed air, so I think I really need to discover if there's a low point drain and where it is!

We think we opened all the valves - sure hope we found them all!
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Old 11-25-2018, 04:35 PM   #9
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I never had any on my FF and I never used compressed air on it or any trailer before . I just plumbed in the antifreeze and it will flush out all of the water. Just make sure you run all of the taps including the outside one and you'll be fine.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:28 PM   #10
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Thanks!

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Old 11-26-2018, 09:06 AM   #11
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(See my other water pump post)

I gave up on getting the pump tp draw antifreex from the tank or the jug...so I took a funnel and poured it down the pump until we pinked out all the taps (and the toilet).

Of course afterwards I found a puddle under the pump - (being old and overweight didn't make the complex ballet of holding up the hose and funnel, shouting out to the Mrs who was working the taps and watching the pump action buried under the bed simultaneously easy...)

Ready to park it...hope the water won't taste too bad next spring!

Thanks for all the help here...next year will be easier.
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