For the past 6 months things have been great with my 2005 Cruiser RV Fun Finder. I moved to a rainy climate and now I cant seem to get rid of the leaky window, condensation build up everywhere and mold.

I found mold initially in all my windows after a week in this climate. That lead me to an area that was dry rotted and so the repairs began. I ripped out all the old wood and painted kilz all over the inner fiberglass. I then reframed the inside, painted that with kilz then added insulation and the thin wood paneling that is used inside these campers. Upon using wood filler to connect the old piece that was not rotted to the new piece and sand it down I found that nothing was drying. Well apparently the leak that I thought was fixed is not so tonight I ripped it all back out.

The window has a 1/4 inch gap between the outer frame and the rubber seal. I tried filling that with caulk and all the moisture has kept it from drying. I was then advised to try spray foam and that worked better but I still dont think its stopped the problem. I also had to spray foam around all the other windows and doors as this was not done in factory, however it has not stopped the windows from being filled with condensation and water pooling in the tracks.

So my main question is, how to a go about this repair. What products can I use to fill the window gap? What besides kilz do I need to start layering this wall with? I was going kilz then straight to insulation, but I feel I need to get more of this board and kilz that then glue that to the fiberglass. Then insulate, then more of the board (kilzed then painted).

I dont know how to add pictures if that is even possible here so please help out if you can.

What a drag!! This is a serious problem, and not easy to fix, I guess. There should be no gap between the window frame and the body of the trailer. I assume you have completely removed the window, right?? Also, did you use caulk, or did you use butyl tape? Butyl is the right stuff -- when you screw the window frame back in, the tape compresses and forms a seal, kind of like plumber's putty.

And are you sure that the leak is at the window and not higher up? Sometimes, a roof leak migrates down the wall and emerges at the window.

Let us know how this is going, and let us know if you need additional tips on how to fix a window leak. Good luck!!

It seems the wood at the top of the window is fine, it was the wood along the side and bottom that rotted out. I will definitely look for the butyl tape, do you know if it is sold at home depot? Also I was going to get some roof cement that comes int the tube to fill in gaps there it wouldnt be easy to tape.

As far as a roof leak, I dont think I have one. All the roof seams looked good last time I was up there (just a week ago). Its a fiberglass shell so no seams along pieces of aluminum siding.

Do you suggest I glue that thin flexible birch/particle wood (not sure if thats the name or not but its pretty standard) to the fiberglass. Then insulate, then add the final layer of wood that will be nailed to the 1x2 studs? I didnt do the first layer when I recently repaired it and the insulation was wet from the leak, but also from condensation I believe. The factory had a cardboard type layer glued to the fiberglass.

The butyl tape is available at Napa Auto Parts and probably at Camping World.

Not sure about what to do with the paneling -- I think you are talking about lauan panel?? In any event, don't close it up till it is all dry -- then insulate and close it up.

Here is a good discussion of how to do the job -- this is not my post -- it is from a guy named Kentucky Dan, who used to be active on another forum:

http://ky-dan.com/rv_window_repair.html

I hope this helps!!

Butyl tape is definitely the stuff to use. I've replaced all my windows with it on my 06'. I had no luck finding it here at home depot in Canada, but I've heard the american stores should have it. I've since seen it at a smaller chain hardware store (Home Hardware) up here, but most RV dealers should have it in the parts department - no leaks since!

You should be able to have the window flush to the trailer with no gaps. If it won't pull tight with the screws, there may be another issue preventing it as previously mentioned.

I would also think that cranking up some sort of heater within the cabin would help dry it out also. Kudos to you for undertaking such a project .... you're a better man than I

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Ex Owners of a 2015 Fun Finder 214 WSD
2016 Ram 2500HD with 6.4L Hemi