Oh, Black Water...

[Mountaindreamer]

Newbie first post.

Greetings.

I just picked up a '02 Shadow Cruiser Fun Finder. It is in fantastic condition and everything works great, however I discovered while testing the black water tank that it doesn't hold water and leaks around the outside of the pipe. The drain plumbing had obviously been struck by something somewhere along the way.

It is apparent that the trim around the shower floor and the toilet will have to be removed and the shower floor lifted out, but how is the black water drain connected to the tank? Anyone ever been into one of those beasts?

Thank you.

[code2e]

Hi, I do not know your specific model Fun Finder. Both of ours used 3 inch ABS plastic pipe from the black tank to the drain valve. Fittings were all glued together except the valve itself which bolts together. The black tank drops out from below, so I doubt you need to pull the shower floor, even if you have to drop the tank. First thing is, are you sure the leak is at the coupling to the tank? If it is in the 3 inch ABS below the tank, you can cut a new piece to length, use 2 3 inch ABS couplers and replace it with tank in place. If it is the tank, I would pull the toilet, remove the bolts & valve plate and drop the black tank. Once out, flip it over and use fiberglass repair kit, being sure to rough up the surface well for good adhesion. Good luck.

[Mountaindreamer]

Thank you for your reply and my apologies for the delay in responding.

A quick clarification: I didn't "just pick up" this camper, it was graciously gifted to me by my older brother. Never underestimate the kindness of an older brother.

I discovered that the black water tank was located above the plywood floor and the gray water tank was is under the sink area. Long story short, the toilet essentially bolts to the top of the black water tank and the shower floor, toilet platform and BW tank are all one assembly.

The leak I was chasing was at the flange that was glued to the BW tank that appeared to have been possibly over-tightened and cracked over time and worsened by vibration. I couldn't find any evidence of it being struck.

So now I am seeking suggestions on where to find a replacement 3" threaded glue on flange, the type of adhesive to use and a 3"x7" pipe threaded on one end.

Thank you!

[code2e]

Hi, If you pulled the toilet up I think you will find the shower floor is a separate piece from the black tank. The toilet "sandwiches" the floor to the top of the black tank and is the only inlet to the tank. There should be a vent off the top that runs up to the roof. Neither of these connections are likely threaded, only glued. Maybe you mean the outlet fitting to the drain? The tank and the 3" pipe should be ABS plastic and use ABS cement to glue. Any plumbing supply can fix you up with a threaded 3" hub, male or female. The pipe must be glued to a hub to terminate with threads, then cut to length needed. A picture would be very helpful.

[Mountaindreamer]

[Mountaindreamer]

[Mountaindreamer]

The platform under the toilet is the top part of the BW tank and it is glued/plastic welded to the tank. All one piece.

Thanks


http://www.funfinderclub.com/forums/...icture1317.jpg

http://www.funfinderclub.com/forums/...icture1318.jpg

http://www.funfinderclub.com/forums/...icture1316.jpg

[code2e]

Hi, Pictures do tell a thousand words. Couple bad words in the case of your black tank. My only idea for a repair would be plastic welding a 3" ABS hub in the tank. You would need to carefully cut the hole round to fit the outside diameter of the hub. If you have access to a hole saw, find a piece of wood. bore the hole in wood to test fit the hub. Needs to be tight fit. Use the wood piece clamped to the tank bottom as a centering device to cut the tank hole round. Ideally the hole might be a bit small so you can use a drum sander bit on a Dremel or drill motor to evenly size the hole to press fit the hub. Then a plastic weld would have good strength. I have seen plastic welders on Amazon fairly cheap. You may only need to cut end off drain pipe and cement on a male threaded fitting to thread into your welded hub with female threads. Makes it serviceable down the line. Good luck.

[code2e]

Was just thinking of a possible alternative to the plastic welder. Installing the press fit hub remains the same and you could use ABS cement to lubricate the install and hold it temporarily. Then you could use fiberglass cloth and two part epoxy to permanently attach and seal the hub to the tank. You would find a cheap body repair kit at auto parts place that would come with small amount of cloth and epoxy. Cost would be less than welding. Welding would be my first choice. Suspect a replacement tank is unobtainium.