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Old 10-24-2020, 05:51 PM   #1
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Question 2006 X139: Fiberglass delamination - under cover

It's now October 2020 and time to winterize. We covered our X139 last winter after November to protect it from sun and snow in our driveway. Due to a number of factors (Covid-19, parks closed, and a new baby grandson ), we didn't go out at all this year. We did some driveway "camping" just for fun.
The Adco cover was very tattered on the back, but appeared to be intact over the roof and front. When we uncovered it to re-winterize, we discovered new bubbles in the fiberglass front. We are not sure if there was water getting in, or if it just bubbled due to the heat.
Any experience in the group with what caused it?
And more importantly, what to do about it?
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Old 10-24-2020, 06:53 PM   #2
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I have some "delamination" on my '07 x210 but nearly as extensively as your pics show ��. Mine lives in a storage barn from Oct/Nov until May at the earliest! I'm guessing that your issue is one of high temperature exposure! I'm not sure that there's much that can be done about it but others may have ideas.
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Old 10-25-2020, 06:44 PM   #3
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Thanks, RipVan. I am hoping that it's from the hot NM sun, and not a water leak. We don't see any cracks, but going to reseal the edges anyway just for maintenance. The cover was darker in color and perhaps made the heat even worse.
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Old 11-01-2020, 03:18 PM   #4
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Mr. negative here again! but I am because of the issues I've had with the front cap on my 2013 F210 UDS. It's been nothing but trouble since day one. Within the first year, the the front cap started fading and turning gray, Of course the selling dealer was zero help and blamed the issues on the manufacturer (Cruiser RV) and then eventually, (after dragging their feet till the warrantee expired) Cruiser blamed it on the outside contractor" who made the cap. Cruiser and the contractor kept putting the blame on each other and years passed. I finally had the cap completely stripped, sanded, primed, painted and clear-coated with high quality automotive paint. Then, about two years later it starts fading at the top and slowly creeps down the front of the cap, looks terrible because eventually, the paint starts to bubble-up and start peeling. Again, starting at the top and slowly creeping/bubbling down the front. Just like the original did. It's now only 7-8 years old and ready for it's THIRD re-do. At over $1,000 a pop, this is stupid but, I'm stuck with it now. I was told it could actually be the composition of the cap itself that's causing this, but what do I do? Go to Front Caps. Com?
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Old 11-02-2020, 07:33 AM   #5
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Those early front caps were laminated onto corrugated cardboard. My entire 06 started to delaminate in 2010. By 2012 it was really bad. I sold the trailer. I had a massive leak on the front fixed in 2010 so that's why I know what it is made of and how it was put together. I could have spent another grand on the front laminate, but by this time the side was starting too. Scrap the trailer and move on.
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Old 11-02-2020, 10:40 AM   #6
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The front "cap" on my 2013 F210 UDS is, (according to the body shops that have worked on it) Fiberglass. Feels like plastic to me but they say it's fiberglass. It was painted that ugly brown , wasn't gel cote.
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Old 11-02-2020, 01:03 PM   #7
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2006 was definitely not fiberglass. It is a plastic laminate that is about the thickness of a piece of paper. The sides are laminated to luan ply and the front corrugated cardboard.
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Old 11-02-2020, 10:17 PM   #8
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I replaced my front cap myself.
Folks here have said they've been quoted $2500 and more to have repair done. I spent about $700 or so in parts.
In explanation the OEM uses a product called Filon, paper thin flexible fiberglass high pressure bonded to a paper backer. Once the trailer is framed out and insulated ( and damn little of that in mine) they apply a product called Unicore, about 3/16" thick cardboard like product with staples, then apply the Filon to that with some kind of contact cement or construction adhesive.
Mine came apart like tissue paper, Filon just ripped with no effort and Unicore was soaked and ripped like wet cardboard. Below window was much better, stiff dry Unicore.
I replaced all wood underneath without disturbing interior skin, go slow and meticulous. I used 1x4's at all even though some of original was 1x2's. Pull out one piece then replace just that piece maintains strength and shape.
Once all framing was complete I used 3/4" foam (garage door foam from HD) to completely fill all air spaces including curve from roof to above window. Rewired light sconces and clearance lights.
I then applied 1/8" Luan in place of OEM Unicore, bends easy enough to make curves really easy, screwed in place around edges and into framing. I used blue painters tape on both exterior walls to mark exactly where framing was so I could faithfully hit the framing when applying skin.
I then used silicone caulk to close all open spaces and joins between lumber, walls and skin.
I then applied 0.024 aluminum diamond plate with construction adhesive and screws over Luan.
Using butyl tape I applied a longer leg than OEM vertical trim pieces which required relief cuts to make bends. The OEM cutting of side walls to curve wasn't very precise and in spots OEM trim was a caulk line away from edge (1/8") which eventually leaked and destroyed the side walls. As I attached trim I switched from 1 1/2" to 3" screws to attach to side walls and I didn't get good wood about 1/2 the time.
Also, be very very careful of angle while driving screws, it's real easy to penetrate interior or when applying trim, to have screw travel just under skid of Filon and be visible from outside although not penetrating exterior. I had 2 of those before I saw my error.....
After trimmed out I used Dicor on all trim to final seal the job, even went around all trim on trailer and using plastic razor blades and lacquer tinnner, scraped out old visible dirty caulk, resealed all caulk, doors etc. I even replaced all clearance and tail lights and you'd be surprised how many rusted screws I found in drip rails and lights.
I live in Reno NV, we're always low humidity but do get snow.
ALL trailers need to be vented when humidity is high, even in snow country, all year long....
I imagine the issues came from lack of maintenance and not understanding how condensation will destroy interior of all walls, especially around windows.
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Old 11-03-2020, 01:33 PM   #9
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Peteislost.
What model Funfinder do you have? It appears most here have the Funfinder "X" series. I have an "F" series which doesn't have a front window and the brown "cap" wraps around the sides a few inches, It appears to be single molded piece, not layered or laminated. Luckily, our cap isn't falling apart it just will not hold a finish. The original factory finish (brown) and two subsequent (brown) repaints begin to fade into an ugly gray color, you can see the gray UNDER the brown. It starts at the top of the cap then the fading slowly starts to creep down the front of the cap, Eventually, when the fading and "graying" has reached approximately 1/3rd the way down the front of the cap, the paint and original primer at the top of the cap will start to peel off and leave the bare cap which feels kinda "chalky". It's obvious to me that paint and primer is reacting to the cap material and wont stick. The cap was extensively prepped and primed before each repaint. Just frustrating. Anyone know what will permanently cover this? I've thought about a "Wrap" but that lasts 3-5 years, and I was actually considering using Truck Bed Liner
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Old 11-03-2020, 04:37 PM   #10
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Mine is a 2006 X model with front window.
It sounds like you have a molded front cap where mine is the same as side walls. If so, you could take it to a car painter and he can correctly paint the fiberglass, it's no problem for them, they have the correct products and knowledge to keep it on practically for ever without color fade with just normal maintenance by you.
Or you can do it yourself, prep is the hard part as usual...
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Old 11-03-2020, 04:42 PM   #11
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Looks to me like your clearance lights were never sealed. Pull the lens and mounting screws, bet you a dollar they're rusted.
The OEM caulk might be a good product but unlike a house interior caulking, requires maintenance, look for cracking or shrinkage around drip rails at roof.
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Old 11-04-2020, 11:57 AM   #12
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Peteislost,
Been there, done that........twice. Last time it was re-done by a reputable truck painting center. Always full prep, undercoat, color and clearcoat. Always turns out beautiful...for about two years, then it starts all over. Been paying well over $1,000 each time.
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Old 11-04-2020, 10:45 PM   #13
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Damn, that's sad.
Have you tried a hot rod painter type?
Commercial trucks use different materials than hot rods and custom painters are more adroit at looking for better solutions than guys who basically follow the manual.
Just sayin'.
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Old 11-08-2020, 01:29 PM   #14
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Default Peteislost; that's a great suggestion...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peteislost View Post
Looks to me like your clearance lights were never sealed. Pull the lens and mounting screws, bet you a dollar they're rusted.
The OEM caulk might be a good product but unlike a house interior caulking, requires maintenance, look for cracking or shrinkage around drip rails at roof.
We have sealed all around the edges and at gutter ends; I'll take a look at those lights! Thanks. And I appreciate the detailed instructions for how you rebuilt/recoated your front panel.
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Old 11-08-2020, 05:54 PM   #15
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Default Will you please share a photo of your work?

Ended up with a double reply; sorry for the clutter...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peteislost View Post
I replaced my front cap myself.
Folks here have said they've been quoted $2500 and more to have repair done. I spent about $700 or so in parts.
In explanation the OEM uses a product called Filon, paper thin flexible fiberglass high pressure bonded to a paper backer. Once the trailer is framed out and insulated ( and damn little of that in mine) they apply a product called Unicore, about 3/16" thick cardboard like product with staples, then apply the Filon to that with some kind of contact cement or construction adhesive.
Mine came apart like tissue paper, Filon just ripped with no effort and Unicore was soaked and ripped like wet cardboard. Below window was much better, stiff dry Unicore.
I replaced all wood underneath without disturbing interior skin, go slow and meticulous. I used 1x4's at all even though some of original was 1x2's. Pull out one piece then replace just that piece maintains strength and shape.
Once all framing was complete I used 3/4" foam (garage door foam from HD) to completely fill all air spaces including curve from roof to above window. Rewired light sconces and clearance lights.
I then applied 1/8" Luan in place of OEM Unicore, bends easy enough to make curves really easy, screwed in place around edges and into framing. I used blue painters tape on both exterior walls to mark exactly where framing was so I could faithfully hit the framing when applying skin.
I then used silicone caulk to close all open spaces and joins between lumber, walls and skin.
I then applied 0.024 aluminum diamond plate with construction adhesive and screws over Luan...
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Old 11-09-2020, 02:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peteislost View Post
Damn, that's sad.
Have you tried a hot rod painter type?
Commercial trucks use different materials than hot rods and custom painters are more adroit at looking for better solutions than guys who basically follow the manual.
Just sayin'.
Peteislost,
First time was a quality auto painting shop, who guaranteed but, not in writing, that it would last forever! second time was a very reputable truck painting shop who basically just said we shouldn't have a problem with it anymore. Couldn't find anyone with a legitimate warrentee. Guess I could keep trying other places till something' sticks. I could try a boat painter too, it's just this is getting expensive !! I'm trying to find something different now, like maybe truck bed liner but could you imagine what that would look like if it too didn't stick and started coming off? I checked with a couple of bed liner shops and they both said they would do it but, of course, no guarentee.
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Old 11-09-2020, 04:05 PM   #17
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Something is screwy.
Auto paint as well as commercial truck paint should last practically the life of the cap.
I know the painter who painted the air racer Rare Bear and it last through high altitude, freezing temps, parked in the sun and 500mph. It was upper quality auto paint and is lasting to this day minus normal mechanics handling shrouds and such.
Modern cars are mostly plastic which can be chrome coated.
This must be some kind of weird plastic..

I added a photo album of my front repair. In retrospect I didn't take enough photos to share but enough to show what I did.
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Old 11-09-2020, 10:34 PM   #18
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Thanks for the photo post. Did you know that you had some leaks before you decided to redo the whole thing? You did a nice job.


Quote:
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I added a photo album of my front repair. In retrospect I didn't take enough photos to share but enough to show what I did.
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Old 11-09-2020, 11:40 PM   #19
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My 3010 FF 189FBR definitely has a fiberglass front cap. It's white and probably more than a 1/8 of an inch thick.
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Old 11-10-2020, 11:59 AM   #20
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I bought the trailer in June, knew it had bubbling of front cap but didn't realize what was going on as it's my first trailer ever.
I decided to replace front cap after reading this forum, seeing what others were quoted for repairs, I'm retired so money not time was the priority, and then realized what I'd bought.
Much of the leak was from the clearance lights which had next to none caulk. The window caulk was OLD and cracked plus the rubber gasket was in sad shape. The window also causes condensation which I believe is what fed the yellow/orangeish fungus. What is holding the interior skin together is the cosmetic topcoat the OEM applied. That gets replaced next spring.
When I literally tore the Filon and found wet Unicore above the window which also tore like wet cardboard I was both surprised and highly irritated. Mind you I'm in Reno NV and we don't get rain all year, our precip is snow in winter months. When I found the fungus growing in the wet below the window (which was about 18" by 6" wide ) I'm glad I tore it up. Didn't want to be living with that 1/4" from my bed...
So I've very very happy I took the action I did, gained a ton of knowledge and confidence in my ability to learn new things in my late 60's.
Next year will be very enjoyable for me even if all I do is drag it 30 miles to the nearest paying campground and sit with the dogs playing in the lake, all summer long.......
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