Black tank repaired now what?

[PieGuy]

I repaired the black water tank and tested it. It holds a full " load".
The drain hose is only about 5' long. Is that long enough for most dump stations?
What chemicals do you like best?
Anything else I should be thinking about?

[profdant139]

Well done! That was a difficult job, I am sure.

Five feet is not long enough, in my experience. We have a twenty foot hose, and there are times that it is just barely enough. Some RV parks put the sewer fixture in the wrong place.

Some thoughts about sewer procedures and accessories:

When you get a hose, get a really good one. This is not something that you want to economize on, as I learned to my sorrow. Watch the "mills" -- the thickness of the plastic. And also get fixtures for both ends that are easy to install. Some of those bayonet mounts are very hard to screw onto the hose itself.

A sewer support is an important accessory -- it assures you that the flow will be steadily downhill. Otherwise, you could discover that there are unfortunate valleys in the layout of your hose, leading to some very unpleasant results. Again, do not ask me how I know this.

We prefer the non-formaldehyde chemicals -- when you are at a rural RV park, the formaldehyde can poison their septic systems, which depend on bacteria to digest the stuff. We get the supposedly all-natural enzyme stuff at WalMart. It comes in little packets -- very easy to dispense -- just drop it into the toilet.

It is a good idea to stock up on those Harbor Freight disposable nitrile gloves, in sizes that fit everyone in your group who will be working with the sewage. Again, get the thicker gloves. The cheap thin ones will tear. Again, don't ask me how . . . .

If your trailer has a rinse fixture, bring a hose that can be hooked up to a water source to put water into that fixture. This is not a potable water hose -- the water sources at dump stations are not to be trusted. Keep that rinse hose separate from your potable hose.

If you do not have a rinse fixture, run water into the toilet tank, using your fresh water.

The rule is "first dump the black water, then the gray water." The gray water rinses the hose out.

Have hand sanitizer handy for afterwards. Take it out before you start, so that you do not have to touch anything before using it.

[Haole Hiker]

Thanks Prof Dan, good advice a usual. Can you tell me which hose you have? I went to Amazon and immediately got overwhelmed with choices. I figure you probably bought a pretty good one. I have gotten by all this time with the original 5Ft one but would like to get a 10Ft. Thanks HH.

[gmw photographics]

I agree with all that Dan said above.

I am using a camco rhino flex, and I got two extra "extensions". I also use the 45 degree angle "clear" elbow that attaches at the dump valve on the trailer. It makes it easy to see when I have it rinsed out well enough that clear water is coming out.

Once in a while I "wash out" the tanks ( both black and gray ) on the last day coming home. What I do is drain at the CG on the last morning, rinse the tanks, then throw a little dawn dishsoap in each tank, and add a couple gallons to each. Drive home that day, and dump when I get home ( I have a sewer dump port at home ).

I don't bother to use tank chemicals given that they are "pretty clean" after that.

EDIT: something else I keep around in addition to the nitrile gloves Dan mentioned is a spray bottle of "chlorox hard surface disinfectant". It resides in the box of misc stuff in the outside storage compartment streetside. When done fussing about with the sewer hose and fittings, all the ends and pieces get a spritz of disinfectant, as does the dump valve and handles, etc.

[profdant139]

I think we have a rhino, but I am not sure -- I don't remember. I do remember trying to persuade my thrifty wife to spend a little more on the more expensive hose, due to the thicker plastic. I won that particular discussion, which is why it is so memorable.

And I really like the idea of a clear elbow so you can watch the stuff coming out -- that is not only useful, it is entertaining!

[Eagle]

I agree with above comments about the 'sewer system' and discharge hose. I've been at more then one campground where 20' for sewer hose just barely reached and a weight (flat rock probably used/left by the last person) had to be put on the discharge elbow to hold it into the sewer dump.
Haven't tried 'chlorox hard surface disinfectant' but Lysol in a spray can works for me.

[T town]

......"so you can watch the stuff coming out -- that is not only useful, it is entertaining!".....

Why do I get the picture of "Eddie" from Christmas Vacation in my mind..??

great info though

[runner421]

So yes - I'll second or maybe it's third the recommendation for a RinoFlex sewer hose set up. They're pretty tough, seal tightly and firmly to the camper's drain pipe.

Amazon.com: Camco 39761 RhinoFLEX 15' RV Sewer Hose Kit with Swivel Fittings: Automotive

It's good set. You can also get an extension hose if you need it. The 4-in-1 translucent elbow adapter fits 3" slip or 3", 3-1/2" and 4" threaded dump-station pipes is a great item. Never know what size the dump station pipes will be.

And - another tip - If you're at a campground, with your camper hooked up to the sewer drain, do not leave the camper's valve in the open position. It's best if you let your camper's tanks fill up a bit. Then open the black water drain. Let it drain. Then open the gray water drain, let it drain. This helps gravity do the job of forcing the waste through the pipes.
If you leave the valves open, you could get a toilet paper and solid waste blockage because it doesn't or won't move through the pipes fast enough.

[profdant139]

That phenomenon is called "the black pyramid of death," for obvious reasons. Great idea about not leaving the gate valves open in an RV park! The other problem with leaving the valves open is that sewer gases can flow up the empty pipe.