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Old 10-15-2020, 11:25 PM   #1
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Default Charging the battery.

when we are on 110. the battery will not charge ..every thing else is working..and after I disconnect the battery at home and charging it, it will run on 12 volt power..but no power to the battery for charging on 110..fuses are all good..where do I start..??
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Old 10-16-2020, 08:24 AM   #2
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Sounds like the converter isn't working properly. Do the lights work on 12V when your plugged into 110V shore power?
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Old 10-16-2020, 10:50 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Bro Dean View Post
when we are on 110. the battery will not charge ..every thing else is working..and after I disconnect the battery at home and charging it, it will run on 12 volt power..but no power to the battery for charging on 110..fuses are all good..where do I start..??
Do you have a WFCO converter? If so, open the inspection panel and check the fuse (or fuses) which are in the output that goes to the battery. You can go to the WFCO website and download a user manual if you don't have one. Since I understand that the 12V lights and accessories work from shore power, then I conclude the converter is making power but there is no connection to the batteries. There may also be another fuse located near the batteries to protect against a short. Somewhere you have an open connection, either in a fuse or the lead.
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:20 PM   #4
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I have power on 110, to all 12volt converter is running,Lights ,fan , fridge . and I have power from the battery to run Light etc..Now..when the power 110 is on..were do I put the Battery off switch..?? some thing is open, wire ,fuse..Thank you..I have my FLUKE in hand, if you see smoke, run..
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:21 PM   #5
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all lights working 110 - and on 12v
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Old 10-16-2020, 01:22 PM   #6
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how do I find out if it is a WFCO..??
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Old 10-16-2020, 02:43 PM   #7
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Well, I am impressed! Fluke qualifies you as an expert in my book. Attached are some shots of my WFCO converter. Yours might be similar.

See the two large red plug-in fuses? They are actually connected in parallel to effectively double the fuse rating. One side is connected to the voltage output of the converter and the other side to the heavy gauge wire (in my case a 8-10g) that runs to the battery.

My trailer also had an additional 40 amp inline fuse located outside the battery compartment and where the heavy wire mentioned above came out of the trailer harness. The fuse is inside a green holder supported by only the wires.

The WFCO directly distributes all of the DC to the lights and accessories. The heavy wire between the converter and the battery carries the charging current when connected to shore power AND the current flows in the opposite direction on the same wire when the DC is coming from the batteries.

Does that make sense? If not ask for more.
Good luck!
Attached Thumbnails
20200509_173736.jpg   20200509_173847.jpg   20200509_173925.jpg  
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:18 PM   #8
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LJAZ..Jimbo.. you will not believe what I found out..with the battery disconnect switch in the off position the Battery will not charge..But with the switch in the ON position I have 13.6 volts going to the battery..tested this with no battery connected ,,and with the switch in the On position I have 13.6 volts going to the plug going to the TOW vehicle..so now I am charging my battery ..Thank You...
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Old 10-16-2020, 06:19 PM   #9
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I do have a WFCO..just like yours..
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Old 10-16-2020, 07:36 PM   #10
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Bro Dean,
Glad I could help point you in the right direction!

Just FYI, wet cells would fully charge with the 13.6VDC from the WFCO but deep cycle batteries or AGM batteries used in RVs actually need closer to 14V to fully charge. From memory I think the deep cycle batteries are only getting to 75-80% charged with 13.6V. I installed a Renogy 20 Amp DC-DC Battery Charger in my Fun Finder so that it will charge properly from the WFCO and while I am towing it down the road. I wrote it up and posted it to this FF Forum probably 6 months ago if you are interested.
Happy FF camping!
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Old 10-16-2020, 09:09 PM   #11
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Cool..I am going to look it up now..Thank you..
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Old 10-17-2020, 08:35 AM   #12
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Sorry, should have thought of the battery disconnect switch first
Start with the easy stuff.
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Old 10-18-2020, 01:46 PM   #13
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Haha... thank you...
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Old 10-18-2020, 05:48 PM   #14
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I am at a loss RE: the purpose of the "battery disconnect switch" ?? It seems to cause more problems than benefits! Every time I come across a thread that deals with the disconnect switch, I wonder why my '07 x210 doesn't appear to have one. It's possible that it does but I have yet to find it. I do have the black plastic box in the center of the under bed, pass through storage area but there is no switch of any kind associated with it. It's just a cover! I've yet to experience any battery issues. When plugged into shore power, the battery monitor generally shows a full charge. When not on shore power, the monitor does indicate a lower level of charge as time and use pass. I'm guessing that's to be expected. I also find it strange how easy it is to inadvertently put the switch into the disconnect mode. I would have designed it the other way around . Maybe there should be a sticky for electrical problems with the #1 entry being "Check the battery disconnect switch"!!!
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:35 PM   #15
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Actually, I would like some to explain why they even install a battery disconnect switch.

When I purchased my unit new, w/o explaining why, the selling dealer showed me the switch and said leave it pulled out....which I have done.

Never found any reason to push in the switch to disconnect the battery.
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Old 10-19-2020, 12:33 AM   #16
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Reason for the battery disconnect switch is to isolate the battery from parasitic drain caused by the LP/CO detector, radio, etc. during long intervals of non use. Plus it's a good way to help diagnose 12 volt electrical issues. For example if you are not sure the converter is putting out 12 volts, you turn off the switch and if you still have lights the converter is working fine.
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Old 10-19-2020, 05:17 AM   #17
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There is no battery drain when my unit if parked w/o shore power for long periods of time.

Everything is turned off including the LP/CO detectors on which I have spliced in small push button on/off switches.
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