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07-19-2020, 11:25 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 22
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Connecting batteries to trailer
Took the batteries off our FunFinder 25RS for storage, and now I can't remember how they connect, or rather, where the positive cable ties in. 2 terminal blocks, pretty sure it goes there, but just not sure. There is a white wire, which is labeled as the ground, and a black to connect the positive side.
Hoping the pictures help. Thanks!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NoL...ew?usp=sharing
http://https://drive.google.com/file...ew?usp=sharing
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07-19-2020, 12:43 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cumming, Ga.
Posts: 140
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I couldn't get pics to open,
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07-19-2020, 04:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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Here is an easier way to post photos -- go to this site (link below). Select your photo. Copy the URL that pops up in the box. Paste that into your message. That's it! It really works well:
http://photoposting.is-great.net/
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2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
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07-20-2020, 05:03 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 22
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Thanks for the help, here they are.
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07-20-2020, 05:31 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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I see the photos but am not competent to answer the question -- I'm used to dealing with color coded wires and terminals, and I don't see any color coding.
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2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
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07-21-2020, 10:22 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 22
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Basically, I like to know to where to connect the lead off the batteries. pretty sure it went to the block on the left, on the top connector, but, connected there, not lights came on when disconnected from shore power.
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07-22-2020, 09:08 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,287
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Wow, someone has made some major modifications to your trailer. If definitely did not come from the factory like that. I'm afraid you're going to have to physically trace out the wiring to figure out what's going on there. It appears that the leads were attached to the top of each junction block because they look like they are cleaner than the bottom ones. But that's just a guess. And there is no way to tell which is positive and which is negative.
If it were me, I'd seriously consider converting this back to the original factory setup. Way to many exposed connections that could lead to problems. Not to mention that residential style metal junction box that is clearly not waterproof.
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2011 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 4X4
2009 210 WBS
Prodigy P3
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07-22-2020, 12:24 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 22
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The trailer is brand new. Just bought in February. I have changed nothing. It's so wired as delivered, so I guess I contact the manufacturer and see what's up. When I connected back up, I did it as I remembered it. But, when I disconnected the trailer from AC, nothing came on.
I took the batteries out with the thought of using my fish 6v setup from our last trailer, but was worried that the existing framing for the batteries might not be stout enough to support the extra weight. They were on a battery maintainer until this last week, when I decided to just go with the factory set up.
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07-22-2020, 12:29 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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Steve, it's still under warranty, right? The dealership should be able to take care of this pretty easily. Good luck!
__________________
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
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07-23-2020, 09:37 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,287
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Must have been modified by the dealer. I can't imagine the factory shipped it that way. Those junction block terminals aren't even covered. I agree with the professor make the dealer fix this properly.
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2011 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab 4X4
2009 210 WBS
Prodigy P3
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07-26-2020, 10:53 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 9
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Positive to Positive
Negative to Negative
For 12 volts
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07-26-2020, 11:08 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 52
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Hi, The "junction blocks" are actually circuit breakers. The black wire joining the lower studs is a buss bar and is where positive from the batteries connects. It does not matter which lower stud you connect to, just run your black wire from there to either positive battery terminal. You will notice the batteries are wired in parallel, positive to positive, negative to negative. That maintains 12 volts and combines the amp hour capacity. Be sure all connections are tight. Then and only then, connect the white ground wire to either negative battery terminal. Negative is always connected last, disconnected first, to prevent a short circuit. Retired mechanic. Good luck.
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07-26-2020, 12:17 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Southern Utah
Posts: 91
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Trailer Wiring
Funny. This post came is as I am (kinda) going thru the same thing. I can figure it all out but the wiring makes NO SENSE. Especially if you look inside that residential junction box on the right side rail. Other than the terminals on the Battery itself, EVERY SINGLE additional connection is made inside that little junction box. No logical wiring system has been used. there are all different color wires spliced together with giant wire nuts! My trailer is a 2013 and all the wire nutted connections are corroded inside. Worse yet, they used ALUMINUM wire nuts! These are copper wires and require copper connectors Needless to say, I'm currently(no pun) in the process of correcting all this.
[/QUOTE]
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07-27-2020, 09:32 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 52
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Hi, Once you connect the positive from the batteries to the buss bar, check with a test light or voltmeter to the upper studs on each circuit breaker. Grounding your light or meter to the negative battery post and the light probe tip or red meter lead to each stud. This will verify connections and that the breakers are not tripped. If you have power there and the white ground cable is connected to negative, you should be good to go. If still nothing inside, it most likely is a fuse in the power center (funny looking box inside with no label, down low). Best test of fuses is test light on each leg of fuse. Be sure you have good metal ground to clip to. Inside breakers only protect 120 volt AC, no effect on 12 volt DC circuits. James
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07-27-2020, 09:39 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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code2e, I envy your knowledge of electrical stuff! I gotta learn about this stuff, someday.
__________________
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
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07-27-2020, 10:25 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 52
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Thanks, I have been bending wrenches for 58 years. 32 of those maintaining a fleet of police cars for a major city. Lots of electric goodies on cop cars. Best way to find your way in electricity is to think of it like plumbing. Battery = tank, wiring = pipes, switches = valves & so on. Route the electrons to the work and back without spillage & life is good.
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08-02-2020, 08:09 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 22
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Well, yesterday I went out and connected up the wiring as code2u suggested, and nothing. I went inside the trailer again, and started checking fuses. The panel is right below the switch panel for the lights, awning, slide out, etc. I never noticed this silver knob below the rocker switches. It says, " Battery Disconnect." I don't remember this being shown in the walk thru, but it was super busy at the dealership, and this being the 3d trailer purchased from this dealer, and the walk thru was super short, along with the fact they had brought in 5 of these units from who knows where, figured maybe even thier tech guy didn't know about it.
ANYWAY...I hooked up the batteries, again, as suggested by code2u, pulled out that switch, and sure enough, I had lights, fans, and, all that ran off battery were functioning.
I feel kind of stupid, but relieved at the same time. Neither of our other 2 trailers had a batttery disconnect/bypass.
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08-02-2020, 09:11 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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Great news! I should have thought of the disconnect -- the button on my trailer is just like yours, and it sometimes gets pushed in accidentally since it is very close to the floor.
To prevent that from happening, I use a little cup hook that slips over the shaft of the button so that it can't be pushed in. The hook removes easily so that I can push the button when I need to work on the battery (such as adding water or whatever).
__________________
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
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08-02-2020, 11:33 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profdant139
Great news! I should have thought of the disconnect -- the button on my trailer is just like yours, and it sometimes gets pushed in accidentally since it is very close to the floor.
To prevent that from happening, I use a little cup hook that slips over the shaft of the button so that it can't be pushed in. The hook removes easily so that I can push the button when I need to work on the battery (such as adding water or whatever).
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Good idea! Thanks for the tip.
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08-02-2020, 11:56 AM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 52
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Glad to hear you discovered the problem. I was going to suggest a similar idea to profdant139's, a plastic or wood clip on the switch shaft to prevent accidental use. You might even consider a zip tie, quick and easy. I question their choice of switch. A rotary knob or even a matching rocker switch would be less likely to be tripped. Happy camping!
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