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Old 10-11-2019, 01:26 PM   #1
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Default converter not working

Nothing will work off the DC voltage from the camper battery. Battery is fully charged the converter is a WFCO model # WF8955 PEC 30 amp
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Old 10-11-2019, 05:05 PM   #2
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Did you check the fuses ... including the one out by the battery?
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Old 10-12-2019, 09:13 AM   #3
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If it's not a fuse, it might be time to replace the converter. WFCO does not have a good reputation for quality so when mine died I upgraded it with a Progressive Dynamics PD4600 converter that drops directly into the WFCO power center: PD4655MBA WildKat 55 Amp Main Board Assembly for WFCO 8955 or Parallax 7155 (Includes 4600 Remote)

I found Best Converter to be extremely helpful. They can help you with troubleshooting and replacement installation as well.
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Old 10-20-2019, 12:31 PM   #4
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Default Check for broken ground wire

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Originally Posted by GWShanholtz1 View Post
Nothing will work off the DC voltage from the camper battery. Battery is fully charged the converter is a WFCO model # WF8955 PEC 30 amp
I had a situation where 12volt DC nothing worked. But 120volt AC shore power all worked. It was a broken ground wire in the box on the tongue.
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Old 10-20-2019, 12:34 PM   #5
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Some (probably all) of our trailers have a battery shut off switch. Mine is on the floor in a cargo hold directly behind the battery (Funfinder 189FBS). It is a push/pull switch. When it is "In" it is off. If it accidentally got pushed in at some point, the battery gets disconnected and nothing battery powered will work, unless you are connected to shore power. That is if the converter is working.

Just for info, I recently just had my Parallax Series 7100 Model 7155 converter fail on me. It wasn't producing enough voltage (13.8vdc) to charge the battery, so my battery wasn't being charged by the converter when plugged into a generator or shore power. It was an electronics component problem in the converter. Most people would have replaced the converter, but I replaced a couple of components and was back in business.

I think your converter is very similar (electronically) in design to mine. If your converter isn't working properly, let me know. I may be able to save you the cost of another converter.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:59 AM   #6
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Most converters are junk anyway. If it's not a 4 stage unit I would replace it. If it is a quality unit then try to get it repaired. I repaired my first, it was just a cold solder on the coils. They can come loose if they are jarred around too much. Check with H2814D what he did to repair the unit.
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:23 PM   #7
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Before you replace the converter, check all of the crimp connectors and fuse holder connectors at the battery box. I had the same problem and discovered that mine were corroded an/or loose. I went through and cleaned and soldered all connectors and replaced the fuse holder. Now everything works off the battery.
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Old 10-22-2019, 06:03 PM   #8
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I have a Parallax model 7155 in my 189FBS camper. It recently will not usually show a charging voltage when hooked to house power or inverter generator. If I run the microwave on 110 VAC external power, then the 7155 will switch to charging voltage 13VDC+. So that is how I get it to switch from battery 12VDC to the charging voltage. Or I will turn the AC breaker on and off a few times repeatedly to get it to charge. Once in awhile it will finally switch to charging voltage after an unpredictable period of time, but this is rare. It also will not provide any low voltage DC when batteries are disconnected, like the manual says it should. The Parallax company sent me a test procedure and it passes the test every time I do it. I guess I may have to replace it. I checked all connections and wiring and even removed all the 12 volt fuzes to see if any circuits were bad, as well as checking the amp load on each circuit, all of which are normal. Don't know yet if the company does repairs or if I just have to replace it. Also don't yet know if it is a multi-stage for cure.
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Old 10-23-2019, 07:47 AM   #9
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I don't know what makes a "converter" fail but my '07 X210 has the WFCO (WF 8945 AN) 3 Stage unit and has worked fine for 12 years. Who knows? it could fail on the next outing, I'm just sayin' .
Anyway, before buying an expensive replacement, I would definitely heed the advice of those that have suggesed checking the wiring, connections, fuses and perhaps closely examining the soldered connections on the circuit panel. That final step might involve some tedious disassembly but might be worth the time.
Of course, the unit may have, in fact, failed and needs to be replaced. Again not being totally knowledgeable about "converters" (an issue that rarely stops folks here from commenting ), I don't know the difference between a 3 stage unit and a 4 stage one. 4 is more than 3 and if 4 is better than 3 then who wouldn't want "more better"?
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Old 10-23-2019, 09:35 AM   #10
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I don't know the difference between a 3 stage unit and a 4 stage one. 4 is more than 3 and if 4 is better than 3 then who wouldn't want "more better"?
RipVan
A 3 stage charger has a boost mode that charges the battery fast at around 14.4V to charge the battery fast when it's at a low voltage and will charge it up to around 90%. Then the normal mode kicks in and it will charge at about 13.6V to bring it to 100%. At that point the 3rd stage float mode kicks in to maintain the battery charging at 13.2V. A 4th stage is for when the battery is fuly charged and and the charger periodically - like once a day - bumps the voltage from 13.2 up around 14.4 for a short period of time - like 15 minutes or so. This prevents sulfation and stratification in the battery which will help extend it's life.

One of the problems with WFCO converters is that they have issues switching between modes. Like not switching to float mode which will kill your battery pretty quickly.

I agree with others that if the problem is a fuse or a loose wire just fix it and be done. But if the converter is bad it's a good time for an upgrade. A WFCO converter board will run you about $150, while a Progressive Dynamics drop in replacement converter board will cost around $200. Given the price of a new battery the PD will cost you less in the long run.
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Old 10-23-2019, 06:24 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by LJAZ View Post
A 3 stage charger has a boost mode that charges the battery fast at around 14.4V to charge the battery fast when it's at a low voltage and will charge it up to around 90%. Then the normal mode kicks in and it will charge at about 13.6V to bring it to 100%. At that point the 3rd stage float mode kicks in to maintain the battery charging at 13.2V. A 4th stage is for when the battery is fuly charged and and the charger periodically - like once a day - bumps the voltage from 13.2 up around 14.4 for a short period of time - like 15 minutes or so. This prevents sulfation and stratification in the battery which will help extend it's life.

One of the problems with WFCO converters is that they have issues switching between modes. Like not switching to float mode which will kill your battery pretty quickly.

I agree with others that if the problem is a fuse or a loose wire just fix it and be done. But if the converter is bad it's a good time for an upgrade. A WFCO converter board will run you about $150, while a Progressive Dynamics drop in replacement converter board will cost around $200. Given the price of a new battery the PD will cost you less in the long run.
Thanks for the info. Since it seems as if my WFCO unit functions normally, I haven't had the need to consider the options . Is there a way to know if my WFCO unit is functioning properly? (Other than waiting for battery failure !)
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:37 AM   #12
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There are battery monitors out there that will show you how much charge is being delivered to the battery but the ones I've seen aren't cheap. There may be inexpensive ones available but I haven't really looked so don't know.
Probably just as easy to keep an eye on the battery. If the water in the battery (assuming you have a standard lead acid) seems to be going down quickly that's a sign it may be getting overcharged. And of course you can test it with a voltmeter from time to time.
When my WFCO died the brightness of the lights in the trailer started fluctuating and that was the symptom that told me there was a problem. Up until then it worked fine. I think it lasted about 5 or 6 years.
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky Mtn marmot View Post
I have a Parallax model 7155 in my 189FBS camper. It recently will not usually show a charging voltage when hooked to house power or inverter generator. If I run the microwave on 110 VAC external power, then the 7155 will switch to charging voltage 13VDC+. So that is how I get it to switch from battery 12VDC to the charging voltage. Or I will turn the AC breaker on and off a few times repeatedly to get it to charge. Once in awhile it will finally switch to charging voltage after an unpredictable period of time, but this is rare. It also will not provide any low voltage DC when batteries are disconnected, like the manual says it should. The Parallax company sent me a test procedure and it passes the test every time I do it. I guess I may have to replace it. I checked all connections and wiring and even removed all the 12 volt fuzes to see if any circuits were bad, as well as checking the amp load on each circuit, all of which are normal. Don't know yet if the company does repairs or if I just have to replace it. Also don't yet know if it is a multi-stage for cure.
I do not get notified when a post is made on the thread, so I didn't see yours (Rocky Mtn) until just now. If you can pull your converter out and take a clear photo of the top (electronic component) side, attach it to the thread. Sometimes the problem is apparent. Make sure you disconnect both the battery and the shore power AC before messing with it. I'll let you know if I see the problem or will ask for more photos.
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