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Old 10-30-2016, 08:59 PM   #1
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Default cruiser sport 18'9" fbr electrical - wisdom from all?

This thread is for people that have this model to post their knowledge about the locations/runs/connections of all things electrical they've found in their units... keeping in mind, that not all will be wired the same or even necessarily with the same coloured wire? But since i'm having a few issues with my 2006 (PRODUCED in 2005 like a car I think). It was suggested we all put our collective wisdom in one spot for future reference as we delve into the mysteries of non-standardized travel trailer wiring.

I have benefited greatly from others on this site. Am still trying to track down all the oddities in my unit (like an AC set of wires that are connected to ground bus and neutral bus, but 'hot' connects to nothing inside the converter and is just covered with a marrette ???)... oh the joys of buying a #newtomeusedfunfinder.

I am reminded of my dad's favourite quote: "A little learning is a dangerous thing. Drink deep or taste not the Pierian spring. There shallow draughts intoxicate the brain. And drinking largely sobers us again." by A. Pope. Or as someone else put it "electricity can kill'. Many, MANY more posts to follow, I'm sure. I will also post links to online installation manuals I have found.

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Old 10-30-2016, 10:48 PM   #2
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POST 1 - GENERAL ELECTRICAL STRUCTURE (many of you may know this already, but I'm a TT newby...)

There are essentially 3 interlinked wiring systems in your FF.

1) AC POWER (Alternating Current power, like the power in your house -- the main plug where you get your 115 volt stuff from the 35 amp cord. Large power consumption things run off it like your microwave, air conditioning, and the 3 pronged (grounded) plugs within and on the outside of your trailer. None of these run when you are not plugged into power or a generator. They don't run off the battery. The exception I've found so far is the fridge which can run of either AC power or Propane Gas (with help from the 12v internal system to start and monitor things like temperature) The AC Power also supplies the power to the CONVERTOR which is the power hub of the trailer; it charges the battery when plugged in and converts the AC power to DC (Direct Current) 12v power.

2) the EXTERNAL 12v SYSTEM that runs the TRAILER brakes, signals etc, which gets power from being hooked up to your car and charges the battery while you are driving. THIS SYSTEM HAS A STANDARDIZED WIRE COLOUR AS PER THE TYPE OF PLUG YOU HAVE TO PLUG THE TRAILER INTO YOUR CAR (7-pin in my case). However, things like your brake lights are connected with the type of electrical connector that is quick to install, but can come loose and have intermittent 'contact' ending up with things like brake lights that work when you are still, but may flicker off and on when your are moving (as in my case -- more on that in my next post). This system only runs when you are connected to your car, with the exception of the emergency trailer brake tied into the 12v battery. Some of you may have seen the cautionary post about trailers that have an inside battery disconnect, which if not ON while pulling, can REMOVE THE EMERGENCY BRAKING CAPACITY IF YOUR TRAILER BECOMES UNATTACHED from your tow vehicle. My model does not have such a switch inside the trailer, though I've installed a manual one on the battery itself so I can disconnect when I'm working on the 12v system if need be or when I'm not using the trailer so that, for example, the propane gas detector, which is required to be directly connected to the battery so it cannot be turned off, dosn't drain my battery. Although a 12v shock won't kill you, it's better to have it off when working on some things.

3) the INTERNAL 12v SYSTEM that runs the things inside your trailer like lights, monitors (not TV type, but tanks, battery. heater thermostat, etc.) and provides the 'starter' for your propane furnace and fridge, and can also run off the battery alone when you are plugged in.

And to think I knew nothing before I began... (and still need to know more).

note: Anyone can feel free to correct my terminology or understanding... I am NOT electric-savvy.... but necessity is the price of... This is my Coles Notes understanding of how this stuff works.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:15 AM   #3
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dogs rule, that was a very useful post -- thanks for preparing it!! You may be a trailer newbie, but you clearly know a lot about electricity. I would add that when you are plugging in the seven pin connector to your tow vehicle, wipe it clean and try to blow out as much dust and dirt as possible. And after connecting it, have your spotter stand in back of the trailer and make sure that both turn signals and the brake lights are working.

We have had a few experiences in which one turn signal would work and not the other, or else the brake lights did not come on, all due to debris in the seven pin connector. Easily fixed, but only if you are aware that it needs fixing.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:02 AM   #4
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AS above stated, before towing your unit, ALWAYS make certain your campers brake lights and turn signals function correctly. It could save you from being hit from the rear in an accident!
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:24 PM   #5
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Yes FOR SURE!!! I should also add that the FF brake/signals lights on mine operate with a bulb that has TWO WIRES in the bulb. One is for brakes, the other for signals, so just putting your flashers on DOES NOT TEST THE BRAKE LIGHTS!!!! I had been told just to use my flashers... BIG MISTAKE! I now have a stick to put between the brake pedal and the edge of the driver's seat to test the brakes lights if I don't have a 'spotter'.
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Old 10-31-2016, 07:45 PM   #6
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I carry a snow brush-ice scraper in my vehicle at all times for use in the late fall, winter and early spring. It will double to hold the brake pedal down to check the trailer stop lights, if necessary.

For the 'hot weather southern folks' - this is a snow brush/ice scraper:

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-2610X...+and+ice+brush
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Old 11-03-2016, 01:57 PM   #7
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Just a point...
I lost the connection between the trailer and TV once and a trucker flagged me that I had no lights on the back of the TT... I checked all before I started out and everything worked fine!!
In checking the connection, the lock that engages when the plug is inserted all the way, was not "locked" and I am assuming that vibration and cable movement allowed the plug to slip back enough to lose contact...

So, make sure the plug is inserted completely AND THE LOCK IS ENGAGED...
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Old 11-07-2016, 10:24 AM   #8
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POST 2 - Intermittant Brake Light
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Old 06-15-2023, 05:00 AM   #9
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To add to my own post. Recent problem signal lights and brake lights not working on the FF. Howewer, same issue with my horse trailer. Turned out to be an auxiliary fuse box on the back of my car (car lights were fine) but the box was not labelled as having anything to do with the trailer harness or towing in my car manual. So start with the basics if you have issues when you're hooked up to the tow vehicle and don't assume it's your trailer.
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Old 09-01-2023, 10:16 AM   #10
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Glad to see that the OP (dogs rule) has resuscitated this post! As originally posted, one might infer that it was meant only for owners of a specific ff model but I believe that most if not all of the information presented can be useful to owners of a very wide range of ff campers and perhaps other brands as well. Topics related to electrical issues seem to be common on this forum and the ďexpertsĒ i.e. those that experienced first hand AND solved their issues seem very happy to share their solutions. Clearly a major benefit of forums .
A question totally unrelated to tt electrical or tt in general, what are ďColes NotesĒ? I see that the OP is in Canada. Are Coles Notes similar to (or the same as, just renamed) the Cliff Notes that many are familiar to here in the USA?
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