details re winterizing

Jack · 09-30-2010, 03:46 PM

We have a 210WBS and picked it up Nov '09 ready for winter.
Used it this summer.
Fall is here.
The owner's booklet is hardly useful. It says different things and the dealer step-by-step sheet says other stuff.
We've put 4+ gallons RV antifreeze in the freshwater tank, turned what we think is the water heater by-pass on, turned the water pump on to run "until pink a/freeze appears," but nothing comes thru. Switched different by-pass valves (there are about 5) and still nothing.
I guess we need something with pictures and specific steps.

keyser soze · 09-30-2010, 05:41 PM

Have you done a search on Youtube? It's amazing the amount of "useful" info you can find on there!

flugelboneman · 09-30-2010, 11:16 PM

Funfinder could not make it easier. I do my entire 189FBS with ONE gallon of antifreeze. You should not only have a hotwater heater bypass, but you should have another tube with an inline valve. With all of these valves, when they are in line with the waterline they are open. When they are turned so they are postioned across the waterline they are closed. This small length of tubing that appears to go nowhere is utilized to put directly into your antifreeze container. While someone holds the container to ensure it does not spill over, you turn your demand pump on, go to the furthest tap from the watertank, which is usually the outside shower, turn on both hot and cold water taps until you see pink. Then go to each tap in your trailer, furthest to the nearest and do the same thing, including your shower and your toilet. Run enough so antifreeze rests in each trap. As mentioned, I get by with a one gallon bottle. You may need two. You do not need to dump antifreeze into your water tank. You will need to ensure that you have the taps turned the correct way to bypass your hotwater tank. Remember the rule for the direction of the valve tap. If they are turned the direction of the water line, it means they are open. Another critical note. If you use the short length of hose to evacuate the antifreeze from its container into your system, make sure you turn that valve to the OFF position when you are through. Otherwise, your demand pump will not work because it will not be able to build up pressure in the system when you are ready to re-use the trailer.

Jack · 10-01-2010, 07:44 AM

I thought it should be simple.
Interestingly, the owner's manua(p 55, #6 step) l and RVBasics site both said "Fill the fresh water tank to a level that is above the minimum water pump operating level, using RV non-toxic antifreeze."
That takes a lot antifreeze! The pump didn't pump yesterday, perhaps because of low amount of fluid in the tank.
I saw your suggestion after I posted the problem yesterday.
and plan to do that this morning.

Anyway, thanks.

Jack · 10-01-2010, 08:36 AM

Hi, again......so soon.

Took your suggestion. Worked in about 5 minutes.

flugelboneman · 10-01-2010, 11:50 AM

Glad to be of assistance.....its what these forums are all about. The Funfinder setup for winterizing is very well laid out. But sometimes when you first look at all the fixtures and hoses, it can be quite confusing. After you have worked with it a couple of times, its duck soup. The operator's manual that comes with the trailer is so generic its about as useful as t----ts on a bull. They seem to be all the same.

Citycamper · 10-02-2010, 06:00 PM

On our 210 the pump is located under the TV system. The panel has four screws holding it on. Take them out and you will see the pump with a clear plastic tube and bypass valve on it. This is where I did it from. The book is out to lunch.

Jack · 10-03-2010, 08:48 AM

Yes. Last summer we discovered the pump by listening for it, opened the panel, only to discover the switch was left on winterize and would pump.
I should have remembered that this fall, but.....
Anyway, yes again. The book is medocre at best and in this case more harmful than helpful. Am tempted to e-mail my dealer and update them!
Thanks for your interest.