Electic stabilizer jacks

seattlegolfer41 · 04-11-2013, 10:43 AM

Hi everyone.
I bought a 2012 210 ouds last July and really enjoy it so far except one thing, the electic jacks. They get water in them through the hole where the wires go in through the housing. I took in in for some warranty work and because they worked when they tried them nothing wil be done to fix or replace. Anyone else had this issue? I did try and put some silicone goop on the hole but a couple of weeks later two of them had to be manually raised, thank god for an electric drill, I couldn't imagine retracting these by hand....yikes!

webslave · 04-11-2013, 11:35 AM

I'm assuming that you've verified that it is a "water event", i.e., caused by rain, that is making the jacks fail until they dry out and then they work fine...

If it can be ascertained, for certain, that it is a water caused fault, I would look first at the switch for the cause as opposed to where the wires to the motor enter the case. Usually, a wet motor will still spin (think of the starter motor in your car, a motor spins by magnetism and unless completely submerged even a wet stator won't cause the brushes to not make contact), but, a wet switch will quite often fail or the ground path may be corroded and is exacerbated by moisture causing a bad ground path.

First, check the mounts to make sure that they are good and tight and corrosion free to eliminate the ground problem. Most of those power jacks rely on their hardware connection to make the ground path; a loose fit or corroded connection will break the ground path. If that is good, then I'd look at the switches and their mounting, although, I would think that they'd use weather-proof switches, you never know. If the switch is suspect and you can't do anything about them, try putting a big plastic bag (I know...it will look funky) over the whole motor/switch unit and fasten it prior to a rain and then take the bag off later and see if it will work...that will give you definitive diagnosis as to whether it is water or not. Like those of us (well I used to have one anyway) that have power front jacks, we usually take some preemptive actions to keep the heads dry and you may be forced to do the same with your jack heads...

Just some ideas for trouble shooting and good luck on tracking down the problem.

seattlegolfer41 · 04-11-2013, 11:51 AM

Thanks for the great response. It definately looks like the water is causing the issue. When I take the end cap off there is water and is showing some rust. It looks like I'll just have to seal them better myself as the dealer doesn't seam to think it's a problem. I live in Seattle so we do get a little rain sometimes, lol. Thanks for the help.

shadow · 04-11-2013, 04:06 PM

I fixed mine by sealing the wire holes, used alot of WD. 40 and replaced caps and then sprayed several coats of liquid electrical tape on all seams and seals on the housing. No water and no corrosion. Also, you can easily remove end caps to check. Just respray

shadow · 04-11-2013, 04:07 PM

I fixed mine by sealing the wire holes, used alot of WD. 40 and replaced caps and then sprayed several coats of liquid electrical tape on all seams and seals on the housing. No water and no corrosion. Also, you can easily remove end caps to check. Just respray

roy · 04-12-2013, 12:20 PM

Yep rear two in my 276 have been a problem since new and water was the problem. Dealer couldn't get Cruiser to even replace them. They are sealed up with silicone but the damage was done so I don't expect them to last long. I freed them with WD40 the few times they stuck due to rust and water in the motors. Cruiser was no help and I will be hesitant to buy anything from them on down the road.

Eagle · 04-13-2013, 06:55 PM

The failure you have experienced is exactly why I opted NOT to get the electric stabilizer jacks. They were an expensive option and could fail. Besides, I already had a 18 Volt DeWalt cordless drill that would do the same thing PLUS the drill can come in handy for other repairs.

I believe my decision was a wise one after hearing the problems folks have the with the electric stabilizers.

fischnet · 04-14-2013, 12:03 PM

Well, we've never had the water issue with our 4 'jacks', but I'm replacing ours. Between the fact that they do a lousy job of actually 'stabilizing' because they are so short and lightweight and that 2 of the motors are considering failing at a most inopportune moment, I'm not taking the chance! Was getting to the point that you needed to reduce the weight on a leg before the motor would even turn, by rocking the trailer or raising/lowering the tongue! Dealer said they likely are pooping out ... after only a few outings in the last 1 1/2 yrs ... but are still working so Cruiser would not replace. I don't want to replace them with another of the same anyway.

I've ordered 4 of the BAL 'C' Jacks, Model 23231 - 31" - 3000 lb. capacity
http://norcoind.com/bal/products/con...s/c-jack.shtml

Discussion with a BAL tech person convinced me that because the frame of the 214WSD is so high, the 31" will allow ground contact without the current 19" leg being almost vertical or having a pile of blocks that are equally unstable. The more shallow angle of support will provide greater stabilization. Don't need a motor, heck we could hand crank decent jacks faster than these wimpy motors any day! But also have the handy drill with socket for a 'motor' if we're not inclined to be cranky!

J&C Douglas · 04-21-2013, 09:05 PM

We just bought a 210WBS with just manual crank jacks. What's the electric drill setup that works?

Thanks,
Jeff Douglas

Eagle · 04-22-2013, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J&C Douglas

We just bought a 210WBS with just manual crank jacks. What's the electric drill setup that works?

Thanks,
Jeff Douglas

Just about any brand cordless electric drill will work. I use an 18 volt Dewalt cordless because already had one or two.

That plus the socket that fits the stabilizer jack and locks into the drill chuck like here: http://www.adventurerv.net/ultra-fab...ks-p-1438.html

and no more hand cranking the stabilizer jacks. They zip up or down quickly and conveniently.

J&C Douglas · 04-22-2013, 10:03 PM

Thanks Eagle -

They must have made some changes, 'cause there is a 3/4" threaded rod with a couple of matches not a bolt to turn. Hopefully, the dealer is sending me the correct tool. Ever seen this kind?

Thanks,
Jeff

Eagle · 04-23-2013, 07:25 AM

I'm at a loss as to what your TT has to lower/raise the stabilizer jacks. All those I'm familiar with have a 3/4" 'nut' on the end of the threaded rod to raise or lower the jack.

The TT comes with a hand crack 'speed wrench' to raise/lower the stabilizer jacks ... using a socket & cordless drill does the same thing much quicker and easier.

If this has changed in 2013, I am no familiar with this 'new' style. A picture would help as an internet search turned up zero clear pics of the jacks.

As a side note, apparently lots of dealers use pics of last years models as 2013's as they do now show the new gray fronts. I like the all white myself but that is just a personal opinion thing.

**LJAZ** · 04-23-2013, 08:43 AM

Mine don't have the 3/4" not on the end either. It's more like a round rod with 'ears'. The hand crank end has a round socket with slots cut into it to accept the 'ears'. Don't remember off hand who the manufacturer is.

Eagle · 04-23-2013, 01:53 PM

So, can you take the 'speed socket' referenced earlier and cut cross slots in it to fit?

Just wondering.

**LJAZ** · 04-24-2013, 08:12 AM

I haven't really looked into this yet, I'm still doing it 'old school' with the hand crank, but I don't see why not. In fact the diameter of the 'wings' might be small enough that it will fit into 2 of the corners of the 3/4" socket and work as is.

J&C Douglas · 04-24-2013, 06:04 PM

LJAZ - Thanks...we just need the round socket with inside tabs to fit around the threaded rod. They gave us the wrong speed socket tool with the 3/4" socket. I have a call into the factory. I don't see anyway to modify this tool to make it work. 210WBS must be the only model using these jacks. Seems very change and sure is frustrating.

-Jeff

JACKPINEJOE · 06-15-2013, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seattlegolfer41

Hi everyone.
I bought a 2012 210 ouds last July and really enjoy it soFULL far except one thing, the electic jacks. They get water in them through the hole where the wires go in through the housing. I took in in for some warranty work and because they worked when they tried them nothing wil be done to fix or replace. Anyone else had this issue? I did try and put some silicone goop on the hole but a couple of weeks later two of them had to be manually raised, thank god for an electric drill, I couldn't imagine retracting these by hand....yikes!

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. CAPS WERE FULL OF WATER. HAD TO REPLACE ONE MOTOR. DO YOU KNOW WHO THE MANUFACTURER THESE ELECTRIC JACKS ARE?

seattlegolfer41 · 06-15-2013, 11:07 AM

Not sure of the manufacture, but they work fine now that the weather is drying out a bit. I think I'll seal again with more silicone and hope for the best.

roy · 06-16-2013, 08:09 AM

Water is a big problem on my two rear stabilizers. Had one fail let time out. Set screw I guess came loose and the whole bolt head that attaches to twist jack was just spinning. I got it up with channel lock pliers and once home removed the motor. Poured water out of and discovered the set screw had come loose on the shaft. Reset the screw and tightened it back down. Sealed both plastic end cap and motor housing sleeve to out bracket with silicone. Hope this keeps the water out. Added silicone to the other rear motor as well.

I am just about ready to ditch the electric motors and but a nice cordless drill. Cruiser is NO help its all denial with those people.