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Old 09-30-2016, 05:47 PM   #1
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Default Fresh water tank modification provides 10 more gallons

Since I purchased my FF189 FBR in April I have been frustrated with the amount of water in the fresh water tank that cannot be pumped out due to the position of the water outlet. After months of thinking about it, I decided to try a modification that on paper should work. The plan was to insert a 1/2 OD plastic pickup tube inside the tank in such a way that the tube would bend downward so it would extend to the bottom center of the tank which is about two inches below the outlet. I chose a polyethylene tube and used a propane torch to melt a flange at one end. I purchased a rubber gasket and slid it up the tube behind the flange and then inserted it into the tank outlet. I used pipe putty to help make a tight seal. Lastly I screwed in the original 90 degree elbow and attached the flexible tubing that goes to the pump. The ID of the pickup tube is the same diameter of the original elbow and other fittings in the system, so I don't expect much decrease in water flow. After finishing this mod, I discovered that I can now get 10 more gallons of water from the fresh water tank.






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Old 09-30-2016, 07:11 PM   #2
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Gee.... I have a 189 FBR and your water tank looks completely different in your third photo than mine does. Has your been replace with a larger tank? My tank is only 25 gallons I think and is mounted under the bed and cannot be seen from under the trailer.
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Old 09-30-2016, 07:55 PM   #3
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Mine is a 2010 so perhaps they made a change. Anyway, it is suppose to be a 25 gallon tank but I could only get 16 gallons out of it before it was pumping air. This mod gets most of the water out of it now.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:54 PM   #4
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Ours is like Chirpz. Can't see it from underneath. We never measured how many gallons we get. But we never ran out.
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Old 09-30-2016, 10:39 PM   #5
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Ditto, mine is under the bed. I did notice that the line that goes to the pump is a little off the bottom of the tank, so I know it doesn't get it all, but it doesn't leave more than about 1/2" maybe? So not much.

Liz

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Old 10-01-2016, 08:14 AM   #6
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Ditto, mine is under the bed. I did notice that the line that goes to the pump is a little off the bottom of the tank, so I know it doesn't get it all, but it doesn't leave more than about 1/2" maybe? So not much.

Liz

(it's nice to have wifi for a while LOL - seems like every time we camp, we are off the grid)
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There is supposed to be a small gap so you don't pick up sediment from the bottom of the tank - 1/2" sounds about right. You're probably only leaving a gallon or 2 in the tank. Twinster's was leaving almost 10 gallons - that's way too much.
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:49 AM   #7
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That makes total sense! Thanks!

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Old 10-03-2016, 05:52 PM   #8
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The pictures below show the shape and position of the fresher water tank in my 2010 189FBR. As you can see the tank hangs between the frames beams under the floor a little forward of the wheels. As you can see the tank bows down about 2 inches below the frame which could not be pumped out without my modification.

Side View.


Front View
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:07 PM   #9
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That is unreal! It even looks like more than just 2". That is a true design flaw I would think. Maybe some additional supports should have been installed to support it at the factory.
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:22 PM   #10
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That water tank only held up on the sides looks pretty 'questionable' to me.

Some time back, someone made a post about their fresh water tank falling out from between the the frame rails and dragging on the ground.

In my unit, the fresh water tank is between the frame rails, plus support beams so supported on all 4 side and also two additional supports 1/3rd distance in from each side of the main frame rails.
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinster2 View Post
The pictures below show the shape and position of the fresher water tank in my 2010 189FBR. As you can see the tank hangs between the frames beams under the floor a little forward of the wheels. As you can see the tank bows down about 2 inches below the frame which could not be pumped out without my modification.
Well that is sure interesting! Way different than mine. So my next question...
When you lift your bed up (if it lifts up) can you see the water tank from inside the trailer, or is it totally below the floor? If it is totally below the floor, then what is under the bed?

When I lift our bed (and you can't lift it much) you can see the complete water tank, pump, hot water heater, and then an empty space that was unused until I open it up.

I agree with above comment... looks like it needs more support.
Even my old 1986 trailer that we sold, had the water tank completely inside.
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:39 PM   #12
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Well that is sure interesting! Way different than mine. So my next question...
When you lift your bed up (if it lifts up) can you see the water tank from inside the trailer, or is it totally below the floor? If it is totally below the floor, then what is under the bed?

When I lift our bed (and you can't lift it much) you can see the complete water tank, pump, hot water heater, and then an empty space that was unused until I open it up.
The tank is completely under the floor and not visible from the inside. When I lift the bed i see the hot water tank and pump on the left side (see pic) and a larger storage area on the right side that is accessible from the external pass thru. As to how low the center of the tank drops, the pictures probably make it worse than it is. The bottom center of the tank is about two inches below the water outlet and about one inch below the rails.

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Old 10-04-2016, 11:09 AM   #13
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The tank is completely under the floor and not visible from the inside. When I lift the bed i see the hot water tank and pump on the left side (see pic) and a larger storage area on the right side that is accessible from the external pass thru. As to how low the center of the tank drops, the pictures probably make it worse than it is. The bottom center of the tank is about two inches below the water outlet and about one inch below the rails.
Thanks for the picture. I am amazed at the variety of small changes made from one trailer to the next. Its nice that they made the extra space available through the external door. My extra space is smaller because of the water tank, and they just boxed it up as though it were not there.
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:54 AM   #14
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With all the modifications from one trailer model to another, I would assume they have "universal wiring harnesses" pre-made that are applicable to several different models.

In some models, the wiring harness is adequate length and either to long or routed differently ... hence some "wiring bundles" found in some units.

Just a thought.
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Old 10-04-2016, 01:55 PM   #15
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You guys do have a point about supporting the tank better. Perhaps I will buy some aluminum bar stock and bend and bolt it across the bottom of the tank to the frame. Anyway, you can see now why I was frustrated with how much water was being held up in the tank. Even when I opened the drain plug with the tongue lifted as high as it could go, I still had 3 or 4 gallons of water sitting in the tank. Now that I added the pickup tube, at least I can pump most of the water out when it is time to winterize it.
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Old 10-04-2016, 02:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle View Post
With all the modifications from one trailer model to another, I would assume they have "universal wiring harnesses" pre-made that are applicable to several different models.

In some models, the wiring harness is adequate length and either to long or routed differently ... hence some "wiring bundles" found in some units.

Just a thought.
Wiring harness?? Ha. Mine just has a maze of loose wires running where ever they need to run. In some places they are bundled a little and either taped or housed in plastic snap on wire bundlers. A few wires run through the aluminum framing members and come out ragged holes where needed with no protection from the sharp edges. An example would be the two middle dome lights and the two front sconces.
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Old 10-06-2016, 09:58 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Chirpz View Post
Wiring harness?? Ha. Mine just has a maze of loose wires running where ever they need to run. In some places they are bundled a little and either taped or housed in plastic snap on wire bundlers. A few wires run through the aluminum framing members and come out ragged holes where needed with no protection from the sharp edges. An example would be the two middle dome lights and the two front sconces.
Chirpz - You are so right. There is no way most of the AC wiring even meets code. There are places in cabinets and under storage binds where the AC wire just comes out of holes and runs to the back of receptacles. LOL
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:34 PM   #18
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Chirpz - You are so right. There is no way most of the AC wiring even meets code. There are places in cabinets and under storage binds where the AC wire just comes out of holes and runs to the back of receptacles. LOL
Ha... Maybe codes don't apply to RV's!
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:40 PM   #19
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Ha... Maybe codes don't apply to RV's!
Exactly!!!
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:46 PM   #20
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Found this on Airforum.com

Here is what I found.

.What standards do I need to use when building an RV?A.ANSI/NFPA 1192 Standard for Recreational Vehicles NFPA 70 National Electrical Code (NOT AVAILABLE THROUGH RVIA - To order from NFPA call: 1-800-344-3555 or visit NFPA Catalog Home
ANSI/RVIA 12V Standard for Low Voltage Systems on Recreational and Conversion Vehicles
A helpful but not necessary publication would be RVIA's Guide to 1192 which includes sections on all three publications listed above


Looks like the standards relate to fire safety and electrical. Everything else seems to be at the discression of the manufacturer.

Jack

I believe they are talking about RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association)
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