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Old 10-09-2012, 09:27 PM   #1
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Default Fresh Water Tank - Run out of water with 15 gal left

I have a brand new 2013 X-210. Been out about 3 times with it and noticed we seem to run out of water more quickly than I think we should.

I purchased an inexpensive water meter that attaches to the hose to help me see how much water I was putting in my tanks. (It's great because I can put exactly 5 gal in black water tank using the clean out port and then just add chemicals.) But also got to test my Fresh Water Tank

Based on some other posts, I suspected the pump was not low enough in the tank. So I measured how much water I put in to my empty Fresh water tank. Basically my tank starts sucking air at about 15 -18 gal (1/3 full on the monitor) and the water from the faucet flows to a trickle. this means I'm driving around with an extra 15 Gal of water I can't use! so my X-210 effectively has only about a 20 gal Tank.

I've seen a few post where the pump intake has to be moved. Anyone else have similar issues?
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:43 AM   #2
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The pump isn't actually in the the tank - just the intake hose. My FF does the same thing - the intake hose is not resting in the "low" spot of the fresh water tank so you aren't able to withdraw the remaining water.
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:47 PM   #3
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My 2012 x-189fbr has the intake fitting on the back of the tank towards the bottom. I am considering adding a tee fitting to the tank drain and moving the water supply tube to the bottom of the tank. Anyone tried this yet?
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:08 AM   #4
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Interesting, in our new 2013 266KIRB we're seeing the same thing. Starting to get air in the lines and the gauge shows 1/2 full, but suspect it's less. Good to know.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:21 AM   #5
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Default Modifying the tank drain point

I showed my dealer that I was getting only 20 gal out of my 30 gal tank, and they moved the outlet to the very bottom. I also installed a spacer (a 2x2 piece of lumber) under the forward lip of the water tank, between the plastic lip and the steel ctrossbar that supports the tank. It is very easy to lift the tank when it is empty. Then I installed screw clamps to hold the lip of the tank tightly to the steel cross bar, thus sandwiching the 2x2.

As a result, the tank slopes gently down toward the drain point in the back of the tank, and I get full drainage.

An easy project, if you don't mind laying on your back under the trailer for a while. It is too bad the trailer manufacturers don't pre-arrange for proper drainage, but apparently this is a common problem.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:41 AM   #6
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Default Re: Modifying the tank drain point

Quote:
Originally Posted by profdant139
I showed my dealer that I was getting only 20 gal out of my 30 gal tank, and they moved the outlet to the very bottom. I also installed a spacer (a 2x2 piece of lumber) under the forward lip of the water tank, between the plastic lip and the steel ctrossbar that supports the tank. It is very easy to lift the tank when it is empty. Then I installed screw clamps to hold the lip of the tank tightly to the steel cross bar, thus sandwiching the 2x2.

As a result, the tank slopes gently down toward the drain point in the back of the tank, and I get full drainage.

An easy project, if you don't mind laying on your back under the trailer for a while. It is too bad the trailer manufacturers don't pre-arrange for proper drainage, but apparently this is a common problem.
Good idea, I'm planning on working on this over the weekend.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:23 PM   #7
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I like the idea of raising the front to get at more of the water inside.

Just a bit of advice when filling the tank... make sure the water running into it isn't going faster than it can vent out. I did that this last summer while filling up with fuel and water at a Flying J. I figured if the pressure got too high, it'd just kick the hose out of the side of the trailer. Wrong. It expanded the tank, and forced it out from its mount in the frame.

I was inside the trailer at the time, and heard a squeak and a big clunk. I already knew what it was even before I went outside. I had to drain the tank, then remount it under the trailer. Not fun.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:23 PM   #8
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Default Two more thoughts about tanks

I also installed heavy duty plumbing pipe straps across the bottoms of my fresh, gray, and black tanks, using self tapping sheet metal screws into frame members. (I drilled small pilot holes for the screws.) I installed the straps while the tanks were empty -- when they are full, the tanks push against the straps, which provide extra support. When the tanks are empty, the straps are still snug but not as tight.

I also added reflectix insulation around the tanks, as much as possible -- the goal is to delay freezing in cold weather. It won't prevent freezing -- only heat tape will do that.
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:44 PM   #9
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Default Re: Two more thoughts about tanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by profdant139
I also installed heavy duty plumbing pipe straps across the bottoms of my fresh, gray, and black tanks, using self tapping sheet metal screws into frame members.
What material are the straps made of and did you pad the tanks where the straps touch the tanks to prevent rubbing?
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Old 01-29-2013, 02:53 PM   #10
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Default Straps

These are ordinary straps -- every plumbing supply place has rolls of them. And yes, I used reflectix as padding.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:27 PM   #11
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Quick question, when dropping the freshwater tank are the plumbing lines long enough for the tank to drop down a bit? I want to take a look at this over this coming weekend. I've already dropped the underbelly and inspected things, looks pretty easy to drop the tank (empty) if the lines are long enough.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #12
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Default Be careful . . .

I did not try to drop my tanks at all -- the lines do not have much slack, and I did not want to stress the connections. Unless you are handy with repairing plastic plumbing, be very cautious!
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:31 PM   #13
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We have a 2010 189fds. i added a stub hose into the draw fitting of the tank so the intake is extended into the middle, low spot of the tank. i can now draw all the water out of the tank with the pump. i also added two braces across the bottom of the tank and used pallet strapping to secure everything around the original tank supports. The tank no longer bows down in the middle when loaded with water.

i also used pallet strapping to secure the grey/black tank and provide some support.
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