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Old 06-05-2016, 11:25 PM   #1
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Default Fun Finder Solar Install Part 5

This is the 5th post in a series which I started back in 2014 regarding my roof-top solar installation. If you are interested in the previous posts, just enter "Fun Finder Solar Install" in the search box.
We just returned from a three-week trip primarily in the Red Rock areas of Utah and Arizona. Although we had a few nights in full-hookup campgrounds, we did enough dry camping to get a good feel for the solar production. This was the first extended trip we have taken since I added a second 100 watt panel to the roof. Together with the 20 amp MPPT controller and the twin 6 volt "golf cart" batteries, the two 100 watt panels were more than sufficient for our electrical needs for three days without shore power. This included powering the following: the electric fan of the gas-fired Suburban furnace (cold mornings), water pump, led interior lighting, stereo sound system, cell-phone charging, electric awning and various energy gremlins like the refrigerator door defroster, stereo sound system illumination and other minor led lights. My general conclusions: If you travel where the sun shines, especially during the sunnier months when the sun is overhead, a solar system this size is worth the investment. We have not yet tried it out where there are more cloudy days, so I cannot comment on that.
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Old 06-06-2016, 07:50 AM   #2
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I've enjoyed reading all of your posts. We just spent 4 days on only solar. I have a 100 watt panel that was portable. I set it on the front window cover and moved it twice a day to keep the sun on it. The battery never went below 12/4 volts. We have all led lights and used the furnace only in the morning to take the chill (34-39 degrees inside) off before I rolled out of the sleeping bag. I'm going to mount the panel on top. We only have 1 battery for now. I was surprised how well it worked.
Thanks for all your information.
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Old 06-06-2016, 01:05 PM   #3
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I hope to have better luck this year using solar...I have upgraded from Group 27 to Group 31 AGM.

I have FINALLY figured out how to disconnect the power-sucking seal heater on the fridge, and have my back-up Christmas present - a Yeti cooler - just in case I have to turn the fridge off.

I hope my 100W flex solar panel will do its job!! I don't use the water pump, don't use interior lights (even though they are LED. I use a lantern), don't use the furnace. Only thing is the fridge and turning on the Maxx Fan Deluxe for stupid hot flashes...

I LOVE SOLAR. Wish I knew more.
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Old 06-06-2016, 01:06 PM   #4
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Has anyone ever seen a 200W flexible panel? I saw one for less than 5 minutes on either ebay or amazon (can't remember which), and when I went back to look at it again, POOF - it was gone!
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Old 06-06-2016, 01:09 PM   #5
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Hello,

I have been searching for about two if not three weeks for an installation like yours and I wanted to thank you for doing such a great job with the continued input on your solar set up. Good job!

Way back in part 2, you show a photo of your roof vent. It shows the luan sheets with the foam core. You mentioned in that post you drilled through 5/16" plywood but the photo shows what is more than likely 5.2mm Luan which is closer to 3/16" sheet Luan. I am not trying to be picky but I dealing with the same situation on my Rockwood. (Yes its not a Funfinder, but we would have had a Funfinder or Cruiser had we liked the local dealer.)

The Rockwood roof is near identical construction as far as the thin Luan sheets sandwiching the foam. This is why I wanted to confirm the material.

What I really wanted to find out was if you had any issues with the well nuts not "biting" enough when they were tightened or if any had possibly come loose since you installation. At this point I believe this is my only option for mountain rigid panels unless I go with an elaborate custom rack which bolts to the outer frame which is just as possibly disastrous should I drill/bolt into the wrong location.

My other less appealing option is to use semi flexible panels and dicor them to the rubber roof. With the amount of negative reviews on those various flex panels I would rather go with proven glass panels and we do require a more permanent solution like yours.

cheers
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Old 06-06-2016, 04:30 PM   #6
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Around my vent ,where I removed the ac, the roof is 2 sheets if plywood 1 1/4" thick total. Feeling around on the roof it seems like that is what the entire roof is made up of.
I watched this video he used dicore and wood screws to mount it. Dicier seems pretty strong.
If the roof is solid plywood, that would hold my panel. I can't see walking on a roof that was 5/16" plywood. I don't feel comfortable walking on mine yet. I don't want several roof vents.
Here is where I found a lot of information. I emailed Bob and he answered several questions about what I was planning on doing. https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com
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Old 06-06-2016, 05:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michellep View Post
I hope to have better luck this year using solar...I have upgraded from Group 27 to Group 31 AGM.

I have FINALLY figured out how to disconnect the power-sucking seal heater on the fridge, and have my back-up Christmas present - a Yeti cooler - just in case I have to turn the fridge off.

I hope my 100W flex solar panel will do its job!! I don't use the water pump, don't use interior lights (even though they are LED. I use a lantern), don't use the furnace. Only thing is the fridge and turning on the Maxx Fan Deluxe for stupid hot flashes...

I LOVE SOLAR. Wish I knew more.
Hi Michellep,
You will love everything about the group 31, excepting lifting them... I upgraded the single group 24 to two group 31 deep cycles for a total of 1900 CCA... 2 batts at 950 CCA each... I am easily good for 4 -5 days without a charge (Dry camping and no Solar), unless I go hog-wild...
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:56 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by michellep View Post
Has anyone ever seen a 200W flexible panel? I saw one for less than 5 minutes on either ebay or amazon (can't remember which), and when I went back to look at it again, POOF - it was gone!
There is a company just down the street that makes these:
http://www.globalsolar.com/products/flexible-modules/rv
I have no idea what the cost is, or where you can buy them. They look pretty slick though.
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Old 06-07-2016, 12:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by friendofacatahoula View Post
Hello,

I have been searching for about two if not three weeks for an installation like yours and I wanted to thank you for doing such a great job with the continued input on your solar set up. Good job!

Way back in part 2, you show a photo of your roof vent. It shows the luan sheets with the foam core. You mentioned in that post you drilled through 5/16" plywood but the photo shows what is more than likely 5.2mm Luan which is closer to 3/16" sheet Luan. I am not trying to be picky but I dealing with the same situation on my Rockwood. (Yes its not a Funfinder, but we would have had a Funfinder or Cruiser had we liked the local dealer.)

The Rockwood roof is near identical construction as far as the thin Luan sheets sandwiching the foam. This is why I wanted to confirm the material.

What I really wanted to find out was if you had any issues with the well nuts not "biting" enough when they were tightened or if any had possibly come loose since you installation. At this point I believe this is my only option for mountain rigid panels unless I go with an elaborate custom rack which bolts to the outer frame which is just as possibly disastrous should I drill/bolt into the wrong location.

My other less appealing option is to use semi flexible panels and dicor them to the rubber roof. With the amount of negative reviews on those various flex panels I would rather go with proven glass panels and we do require a more permanent solution like yours.

cheers
That was an estimate that the luan sheeting is about 5/16." In any case, I believe the panels are solidly fixed and I have no worries of them being torn off by wind. Each of the four aluminum Z-bracket feet supplied by the manufacturer has two pre-drilled holes which I used to affix the screws into the rubber expansion nuts. I also set each foot in a bed of Dicor.
I think the most important thing to keep in mind is that RV manufacturers use different methods to construct roofs, even from model to model and year to year. The way mine is constructed may be very different than yours. As I showed in one photo, one way to get a peek at your roof sandwich is to remove the refrigerator vent. Another would be to remove a ceiling vent.
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Old 06-07-2016, 12:51 PM   #10
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That was an estimate that the luan sheeting is about 5/16." In any case, I believe the panels are solidly fixed and I have no worries of them being torn off by wind. Each of the four aluminum Z-bracket feet supplied by the manufacturer has two pre-drilled holes which I used to affix the screws into the rubber expansion nuts. I also set each foot in a bed of Dicor.
I think the most important thing to keep in mind is that RV manufacturers use different methods to construct roofs, even from model to model and year to year. The way mine is constructed may be very different than yours. As I showed in one photo, one way to get a peek at your roof sandwich is to remove the refrigerator vent. Another would be to remove a ceiling vent.
After writing my first reply, I reread your post and want to add the following: I am certain that the top sheet of luan on my roof (which is just below the vinyl roof and on top of the styrofoam) is 5/16" or less and even could be thinner than 1/4". The length of the rubber expansion nut "shaft" which is inserted into the hole before inserting the SS screw and tightening was approximately 1/2". As I tightened the screw, I am certain that the rubber expansion nut "squished out" below the luan sufficient to firmly hold the nut. I was careful not to tighten too much. Needless to say, calling such an installation "firmly secured" could be debated. I am well aware that I probably could grab the edge of a solar panel and with a hefty tug rip it free of the roof. But the wind while driving does not exert that kind of force.
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:37 PM   #11
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After writing my first reply, I reread your post and want to add the following: I am certain that the top sheet of luan on my roof (which is just below the vinyl roof and on top of the styrofoam) is 5/16" or less and even could be thinner than 1/4". The length of the rubber expansion nut "shaft" which is inserted into the hole before inserting the SS screw and tightening was approximately 1/2". As I tightened the screw, I am certain that the rubber expansion nut "squished out" below the luan sufficient to firmly hold the nut. I was careful not to tighten too much. Needless to say, calling such an installation "firmly secured" could be debated. I am well aware that I probably could grab the edge of a solar panel and with a hefty tug rip it free of the roof. But the wind while driving does not exert that kind of force.
Thanks for the follow up. Again like I said, not trying to pick apart what you described, just looking for as accurate of a description as possible to help me weigh my decision on what to install. In terms of actual measurement it likely is less than 1/4" but they call it 3/16" or 5.2mm (why they use 5.2mm I have no idea). As a 2x4" is not really 2" by 4".

I have done just as you mentioned and removed the vent covers and I can see almost identical construction as in your photos. The overall construction may be different but the installation of the well nuts would be into a similar surface. I realize nothing is a guaranty of being secure and I agree the minor force applied to the edge of the panels from wind is not going to be significant compare to even the A/C unit.

In my case another one of my concerns is rough forestry access roads and the vibrations causing the weight of the panels to pull the well nuts loose or eventually through the thin luan. I just want something I can rely on for several years. I know again its all subjective to each individual installation, I am just trying to avoid going the flexible panel route as they are double the cost and less efficient but it may be my safest solution for mounting.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-09-2016, 10:51 PM   #12
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For comparison's sake: I have 4 flexible solar panels, 68 watts each. That gives me a total of 272 watts that a solar charger feeds/charges my 4 deep cycle RV batteries. I have an Outback Inverter that then takes the DC from the batteries and provides me AC power for a limited time.
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Old 01-27-2023, 04:30 PM   #13
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I installed a 200w kit with a 2000w inverter from Renogy on the FF purchased about a year and a half ago. Can the AC circuit or at least the AC outlets be connect to the inverter? Could it be as simple as wiring into the AC wire group and plugging it in the inverter, then unplugging when connecting to shore power? Thanks Dallas

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Old 01-27-2023, 05:11 PM   #14
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Hey Dallas -
There are a few options - which one works best for you might depend on the type of inverter you have. Based on your question it sounds like you don't have power to your AC outlets unless you are connected to shore power. But you mention a system with an inverter. Usually a system includes panels, a charge controller (takes the power from the panels and charges the 12V batteries.) Optionally the inverter takes the 12V DC power and converts it to 120V AC power. SO-the question is - if you have an inverter - where is that 120V AC power going? Some inverters have 120V outlets (and even USB outlets) on them (you could plug an item directly into it or use an extension cord or power strip with multiple outlets.) Some are directly wired from shore power connections to your camper's power distribution box (jus box.) Really need a little more information on which Renogy system or components you have.
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Old 01-27-2023, 10:43 PM   #15
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Thanks for the interest and reply
2-100w panels, Rover 20A MPPT Charge controller, AGM 200AH battery, 12V pure sine wave inverter with 3 AC outlets and 1 usb port.
If not able to connect to the AC receptacle in the camper, would installing a new receptacle put a plug on the romex and plug into the inverter work? Dallas
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Old 01-28-2023, 06:06 AM   #16
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Short answer is yes - you get 120V power from your inverter when not connected to shore power. It surely won't pass any electrical code inspections, but-keep inspectors outside. I had a similar project with a truck bed camper (had solar panel(s), inverter and charge controller.) I would recommend installing new outlets rather than trying to connect an existing AC outlet's wiring to wiring coming from the inverter, this helps keep the source of the AC "clean" meaning you know where the power is coming from (shore or inverter.) Label the new outlet(s) "off-grid"/"batt" or make them a different color. While you can use romex on the outlet side and attach a male plug with ground to plug into the inverter, I went the other way: had some old construction extension cord, I cut to length (left the male end on.) Wired the copper strand to the 120V outlet side. Since you have 3 AC outlets on the inverter you could install 3 on the inside of the camper, definitely easier access. And - if you don't have a USB outlet inside the camper, you could do the same thing to use the inverter's USB outlet and install an easier to access one inside the camper. NOTE: remember the inverter's max wattage rating and do not exceed.
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Old 01-28-2023, 08:43 AM   #17
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Again Thanks Very helpful
I'll probobly install 2 outlets and leave 1 on the inverter open. With that info I should be able to take off in a week or so. Dallas
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Old 01-28-2023, 09:21 AM   #18
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Glad to assist - some members are in this group and a facebook group Fun Finder Owners Club. Sometimes we forget to jump from one group to the other. Might get quicker/more replies in both.
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Old 04-11-2023, 09:27 AM   #19
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I have a 300 watt solar setup feeding (2) 200Ahr batteries feeding a 2000 watt inverter that is hard wired into the 120V system.
Hardwiring the inverter requires some sort of switching system for the converter.
I used a $20 12V relay that works perfectly.
Here is the link for the entire install:
https://www.funfinderclub.com/forums...uler-4791.html
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