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Old 07-05-2016, 08:14 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by michellep View Post
I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong, but the furnace fan runs off 12V.
That's correct - 12V. Otherwise no heat when dry camping.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:35 AM   #22
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The "sacrificial" anode is a useful device -- it corrodes, instead of the inside of your water heater. You may need to replace it every year or two.
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:31 AM   #23
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The "sacrificial" anode is a useful device -- it corrodes, instead of the inside of your water heater. You may need to replace it every year or two.

Good to know, thanks.
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:40 PM   #24
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jtwcummins,

I charged the battery on deep cycle 2A last night for about 10 hours. I hooked it back up and checked the fuse. It was a bad fuse, so I replaced it. Now running on just battery everything that's supposed to, except the furnace, works. Not sure how to proceed with fixing the furnace. I bought a small space heater because it's been unseasonably cool up here (64F tomorrow and 50F overnight tonight).

What will replacing the anode/drain plug do?
Hi DCtalk,
I am not sure what heater you have or what's going on, but in addition to the 12 vdc to run the fan, mine runs on propane, and the 12 vdc ignites the gas. If you are also running the same basic heater, you need to have the propane tank on. I usually bleed my propane via the stove at the beginning of the season and if I have changed bottles, filled a tank, or breached the gas system.
Good luck...
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:55 PM   #25
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Good to know, thanks.
Hi DCtalk,
The sacrificial anode typically has a steel core that corrodes much slower than the zinc. I'll post a pic of mine tomorrow evening and show you one that is still functional and I do not intend to change it for a while... The Boss and granddaughter have me chauffeuring them up the North Shore for a drive and see trip and to have lunch in Two Harbors. I shot a pic today, but cropped the anode off laying in the bottom of the box ... I pull it to drain my HW tank when not in use for a while.
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Old 07-06-2016, 04:15 AM   #26
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Did you try my suggestion yet? As I mentioned, I sometimes have to remove the thermostat cover and snap it back on to get the furnace to kick in. There must be a short in my unit.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:35 PM   #27
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Hi DCtalk,
The sacrificial anode typically has a steel core that corrodes much slower than the zinc. I'll post a pic of mine tomorrow evening and show you one that is still functional and I do not intend to change it for a while... The Boss and granddaughter have me chauffeuring them up the North Shore for a drive and see trip and to have lunch in Two Harbors. I shot a pic today, but cropped the anode off laying in the bottom of the box ... I pull it to drain my HW tank when not in use for a while.
Okay DCtalk, here is the new "skinny" regarding the anode... Mine does not have a steel core as I was told... It appears to be an alloy??? I also noticed the the eroded area is still supposed to support the Sacrificial Anode material (Magnesium or Aluminum, I believe) for a long time... BUT, after looking at it closer after cleaning a bit of corrosion off, I have decided to replace the cheap $8 to $15 Anode before it breaks off in the tank causing me to go fishing...

The pic of the single Anode was pulled from my tank... Discussed above... And ... The other pic is from Woodall's RV Owners Handbook, 4th Ed, By Gary Bunzer,page 158 shows both a sacrificed Anode and a New one...

Bunzer explains that a deteriorated Anode will produce less than favorable odor that permeates the water system and is released through the faucets..... He goes on to say that if one notices a terrible smell ("Rotten egg" smell) coming from the water faucets, they should consider that the HW Heater Anode is the culprit...

Another site that may help you...
My Yearly RV Hot Water Heater Maintenance

Anyway, I am glad you brought the subject up, as it forced me to read deeper into the subject and after checking the price, I decided to make it an annual inspection & change if the erosion has reached the core rod or close to it (My own Limits)... I'll replace it...

BTW... When all else fails, read the Factory Manual... The Suburban Manual for my Gas Water Heater, says it is recommend to replace the Anode annually...

Good luck with your unit...
Attached Thumbnails
Sacrificial Anode - 1200.jpg   Partially Sacrifised Anode and a New one.jpg  
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:06 AM   #28
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Besides replacing the anode, I use a water heater flushing tool. It is just amazing how much ?? stuff one will wash out of the water heater using the 'flush tool' at a minimum once in the spring and once in the fall.

Multiple places sell these & all about $10. I got mine from a local RV supply store.

Camco Water Heater Flushing Tool - Parts & Accessories - RV Water Heaters - RV Appliances
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Old 07-07-2016, 08:50 AM   #29
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Besides replacing the anode, I use a water heater flushing tool. It is just amazing how much ?? stuff one will wash out of the water heater using the 'flush tool' at a minimum once in the spring and once in the fall.

Multiple places sell these & all about $10. I got mine from a local RV supply store.

Camco Water Heater Flushing Tool - Parts & Accessories - RV Water Heaters - RV Appliances
Hi Eagle,
I was just telling the Boss that I should pick one up... Camping World has them for about $7 - Member price... Thanks for posting the link...

I don't know what city you live in, but you said once that you are not too far from me... You probably shop at the Rogers CW on occasion... Have a great day...
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:10 AM   #30
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In addition to "flushing" the water heater out once a year, when I finish that, I "vacuum" it out, using my shop vac ( wet vac ). I use a length ( about 15" long of clear plastic tubing that will just fit into the opening where the anode rod comes out. I stick the other end of the plastic tubing into the end of the shop vac hose and wrap with duct tape. I always manage to get even more crud out of there as compared to just flushing with the water wand.
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:18 AM   #31
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Very clever to use a wet vac! Great idea. This makes perfect sense because the bottom area of the water heater tank is slightly below the anode opening, so that a lot of the crud will settle into that "sump" and will resist ordinary flushing.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:04 AM   #32
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Hi Eagle,
I was just telling the Boss that I should pick one up... Camping World has them for about $7 - Member price... Thanks for posting the link...

I don't know what city you live in, but you said once that you are not too far from me... You probably shop at the Rogers CW on occasion... Have a great day...
Actually, never been in a CW store and none near me...although Rogers MN would be closest at 270 miles to the east....and next would be 320 miles to the west.
:-O
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:16 AM   #33
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Actually, never been in a CW store and none near me...although Rogers MN would be closest at 270 miles to the east....and next would be 320 miles to the west.
:-O
....they will be more than happy to mail it to you ....
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:25 AM   #34
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....they will be more than happy to mail it to you ....
I see there is one in Rapid City South Dakota so when I'm at the 76th Annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally next month, I will stop in a look around.

I can't think of anything I need .......... but you never know!

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Old 07-09-2016, 05:13 PM   #35
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I see there is one in Rapid City South Dakota so when I'm at the 76th Annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally next month, I will stop in a look around.

I can't think of anything I need .......... but you never know!

Whoops Eagle,
From a couple of your posts, I thought you were closer... Hmmm, I guess I ASSUMED again...
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:33 PM   #36
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I sometimes have to remove the thermostat cover and snap it back on to get the furnace to kick in.
Tried this and it didn't work for me. Thanks though.
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Old 07-12-2016, 07:20 AM   #37
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The anode can be unscrewed with channel-lock pliers, too....
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:48 PM   #38
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rv_furnace_operation
Simple explanation of furnace operation. The blower fan should start before anything else works. Ignition is controlled by sail switch. If the fan doesn't start within a few seconds of setting therm,nothing else will happen.
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