Furnace and Water Heater Issues

dctalk22 · 07-03-2016, 11:38 PM

Hey all,

So I just bought a 2007 250BHS FF. I'm having two issues with the unit and am wondering if anyone could help me out.

First, I tried out the furnace yesterday and it doesn't run. When I select a temp on the thermostat (past the current room temp), it doesn't respond--nothing happens. I noticed that my battery is dead or almost dead. Does the furnace ignitor need the DC power to light? If not, is there anything I can look at or try? I already took the cover off the furnace register and had a peak inside. I looked for a gas valve but I think it may have an electronic valve? There was an on/off switch which I tried to reach in and flip off and then back to on. My propane tanks are full and the gas stove works, so there is gas flowing. Any suggestions?

Second, I can't get my water heater working. I set the by-pass valve off and opened up the other two valves on the in and out of water heater. I turn a hot water tap on and it runs nicely for 10 seconds and then slows down and water flow eventually stops. Then the water pump starts cutting in and out every second indefinitely. There is a squealing noise that soon follows. I'm not sure if there is much water in the hot water tank ( I don't have a 1 - 1/8" socket to take the drain plug out). Also, I noticed this evening that there is a very slow drip of water from the water line going out of the hot water tank. Any suggestions or ideas?

Thanks for any help.

Kevin

profdant139 · 07-04-2016, 07:28 AM

The furnace has a fan -- if there is no electricity, the fan will not run. There is also an electronic igniter. Can you plug in the trailer and try the furnace?

Don't fire up the water heater until you can get cold water flowing out of the hot water tap. Not sure why it is not flowing - it sounds like there is a vacuum in there. Definitely get a socket to pull the plug -- you need to check the anode, anyways.

Do you have Pex water lines or screw fittings? If the latter, maybe try teflon tape on the threads?

dctalk22 · 07-04-2016, 07:40 AM

Sorry, I didn't mention that I'm plugged in already. Mt father-in-law said he was reading in his camper manual that his furnace ignites using DC (battery) power and the fan runs using AC.

Don't fire up the water heater until you can get cold water flowing out of the hot water tap. Not sure why it is not flowing - it sounds like there is a vacuum in there. Definitely get a socket to pull the plug -- you need to check the anode, anyways.

Ok, ya I will try and get my hands on a bigger socket. We are at our camp site here for a few more days. This is our trial run before our big trip out to the Rockies.

They are Pex water lines. The drip seems to be coming out either where the pex meets a metal fitting or the valve above it. I'll have a closer look once my girls are awake.

Thanks.

michellep · 07-04-2016, 08:05 AM

I know next to nothing about this stuff, but on my first FF, my thermostat went bad. I replaced it myself, so you KNOW it was easy to replace.

Also, the furnace fans runs off DC, no? (so you can use it while dry camping)

Oh, you'll figure it all out. Now, get those girls awake so you can get to work! (after breakfast, of course!)

APD · 07-04-2016, 08:27 AM

If the furnace has an Attwood stat, I'm assuming you turned the top switch to the "on" position.

APD · 07-04-2016, 08:43 AM

The water heater could be air locked. Open up the relief valve for a few to be sure the air is all bled from the tank.
The pump can cycle rapidly as you describe because of a leak but also (and more often) because of air in the system.

profdant139 · 07-04-2016, 08:54 AM

APD, that is a good tip about bleeding the air through the pressure valve! I will have to try that next time, after I drain my water heater to service the anode.

dctalk22 · 07-04-2016, 10:15 AM

michelle,

Thanks. I will try a couple things before replacing the thermostat.

Wouldn't the furnace fan run off of AC?

Thanks for the optimism! I'm sure I will get it all figured out, with some help of course!

dctalk22 · 07-04-2016, 10:17 AM

APD,

I have a Suburban furnace and thermostat. It's turned on and the temp is set high.

michellep · 07-04-2016, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dctalk22

...Wouldn't the furnace fan run off of AC?

I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong, but the furnace fan runs off 12V.

dctalk22 · 07-04-2016, 11:13 AM

APD,

Where is the relief valve? Is that the water heater drain on the outside of the camper? I have tried opening up the two water lines that go in and out of the water heater, while at the same time, turning the bypass valve off. That's when the water pump goes squirrely.

I tried posting a picture of the water leak. It's on the out line from the water heater. I'm going to try and fix that first and then check the drain to see if the water heatet is full.

Pretty sure my battery is dead. I charged it on deep cycle 2A all night and then hooked it up to camper again. I unplugged the camper power cord and no lights, no nothing from the battery.

APD · 07-04-2016, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michellep

I hope someone corrects me if I'm wrong, but the furnace fan runs off 12V.

Ours runs on 12 volt DC. Battery when unplugged and converter when plugged into shore power.
I also figured they were all that way for dry camp operation.

APD · 07-04-2016, 11:20 AM

The relief valve will be a brass valve with a small lever on top. Located in the outside water heater cover. If you lift up on the lever it unseats the valve and water/air will flood out. Google it's location as a T&P valve or Temperature and Pressure relief valve.
Should look something like this:
AP12576G - Rheem AP12576G - Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve (T&P)

Release the lever after checking and it should re-seat.

jtwcummins · 07-04-2016, 11:26 AM

The furnace is 100% 12 VDC. You stated the battery was dead or almost. Before going any further make sure your battery is charged and not defective. A bad batt will cause all kinds of weird problems.
110 VAC in most units powers the A/C, microwave, TVs and the electric element in water heater. Everything else requires 12 v. The fridge will run on 110 but all controls are 12VDC.
So,make sure the battery is good before chasing other issues. With the water heater, get a new anode. Drain plug is the anode so replace it, but be careful removing the old one. Can ruin the threads on heater. I use NSF certified sealer for threads but Teflon tape works.
You should be able to disconnect the battery cables and plug in to shore power and have everything work. Remove and replace anode then double check the bypass valves. I had a BB size foam ball from manufacture in the filter on the output of the bathroom faucet cause issues that looked like pump problem. Assume nothing was maintained properly on a used unit

APD · 07-04-2016, 11:33 AM

About the battery.
Our little camper has a battery disconnect switch located near the convertor. I'm not sure if it's a factory item or was installed later. There could be one in your system.

Also there's a large fuse in the positive cable on our battery. If yours is so equipped it could be blown.
Might check all the fuses in the convertor cover as well. (You probably already have.)

FFX160_CT · 07-04-2016, 01:47 PM

I sometimes have to remove the thermostat cover and snap it back on to get the furnace to kick in.

John_C · 07-04-2016, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by APD

Ours runs on 12 volt DC. Battery when unplugged and converter when plugged into shore power.
I also figured they were all that way for dry camp operation.

Yep, same here, in my FF the furnace fan is 12 vdc and operates on battery or converter 12 vdc if connected to shore power...

dctalk22 · 07-05-2016, 12:07 AM

APD,

Ah yes, I've played around with the relief valve when I first brought the camper home. I will try tomorrow.

Today I fixed the leaking water line with plumber's tape and tightened it all up. Tried opening up the lines and turned the bypass off. Same issue. But i narrowed down the noises coming from the water line going into the water heater. Going to add tape to all the joints there too.

Thanks.

dctalk22 · 07-05-2016, 12:18 AM

jtwcummins,

I charged the battery on deep cycle 2A last night for about 10 hours. I hooked it back up and checked the fuse. It was a bad fuse, so I replaced it. Now running on just battery everything that's supposed to, except the furnace, works. Not sure how to proceed with fixing the furnace. I bought a small space heater because it's been unseasonably cool up here (64F tomorrow and 50F overnight tonight).

What will replacing the anode/drain plug do?

dctalk22 · 07-05-2016, 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by APD

About the battery.
Our little camper has a battery disconnect switch located near the convertor. I'm not sure if it's a factory item or was installed later. There could be one in your system.

Also there's a large fuse in the positive cable on our battery. If yours is so equipped it could be blown.
Might check all the fuses in the convertor cover as well. (You probably already have.)

Good to know...I'll have a look for a battery disconnect switch near the converter. Also, yes the battery fuse was blown.