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Old 04-27-2021, 03:26 PM   #1
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Default Hot water problem

Hey, Iím getting the 2010 160X I bought last Dec ready for my first outing and guess what!
On pump with only hot faucet open, sink is fairly hot but shower is only barely warm and fluctuates with cool.
On city connection the sink is too hot to hold hand in but shower is only barely warm.
As they are on the same line and itís too hot to hold on to coming out of the water heater, what gives? Any ideas? Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2021, 12:15 AM   #2
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Do you have an outside shower? Or even the inside shower. Make sure both taps are closed (not just the temp shut off on the shower head). If not, the water could be mixing before it gets to your kitchen sink.
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:25 PM   #3
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Make sure the connection line between hot and cold lines near the hot water tank is turned off. That connection is open when winterizing but should be closed when camping.
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:42 PM   #4
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Default Thanks all

Well, the bypass line was closed, but I switched it open for awhile and closed it again anyway, then ran the outside shower for awhile and now the water is hot at sink, shower and outside shower! Did discover the connection for the outside shower hose was quite loose underneath the bunk bed (water running out all over floor) and tightened that up. The cold and hot water lines were secure, so that was good and they werenít leaking.
Now the only issues are draining the fresh water tank and having the pump draw air with the monitor reading 1/3 left. I have read the earlier posts from others regarding these issues and will follow their suggestions.
These posts are very helpful and I appreciate you all sharing your problems and solutions with those of us just now getting to know our Funfinders!
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:47 PM   #5
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With reference to the "1/3 full" problem, sometimes the belly of the tank sags -- so you get only 20 gallons from a 30 gallon tank (which is what happened to me).

I fixed it by running steel angle brackets under the tank to hold up the belly -- sort of like a girdle, right? The tank no longer sagged, and I was able to use the full capacity of the tank.
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinster2 View Post
Make sure the connection line between hot and cold lines near the hot water tank is turned off. That connection is open when winterizing but should be closed when

camping.

Oh ya.that too!
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Old 04-29-2021, 06:00 AM   #7
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And don't forget to make sure the wires that attached to the level sensors on the tank are secure. Sometimes the securing screw that secures the wire to the sensor works loose and you will get an error in the level reading.

This is also true on the back and grey water tank sensors.
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Old 04-30-2021, 09:17 AM   #8
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Yeah, I recently learned about the hot water heater bypass valve. I didn't realize it was set on bypass and I took a very, very cold shower in the high desert of Utah last weekend. Brrr!!!

Once I flipped it back, it was hot... just in time for the wife's shower, lol... so at least she was happy.

Learning experience.
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Old 04-30-2021, 11:58 AM   #9
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Hummm - something I've never experienced. Then again, I flip the bypass when I winterize and once the RV antifreeze has been added - I filp the bypass lever back to 'operational".

Easy to do so never have an issue.
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