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Old 05-16-2010, 11:32 AM   #1
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Default How to flush the antifreeze out of system

Can someone please tell me how to flush the antifreeze from my unit.
I have a 07 189fbr Iam new at this and want to do it the right way
thanks
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Old 05-16-2010, 01:01 PM   #2
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I've never done this myself, since it's not an issue where I live. But here's a link to procedure:

http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-fres...nterizing.html

I've gotten other good info from this site. Good luck!
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Old 05-27-2010, 03:39 PM   #3
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I just went through this a few weeks ago. Behind a panel near your water pump there'll be a clear hose with a diverter on the pipe near the pump. This is a diverter built into the line. Make sure it is switched to draw from your water tank. Ours was still drawing from the short hose (it is used when winterizing to draw out of the antifreeze bottle so you don't have to put litres in your fresh water tank) and water would not run.
Once you've done that, put water in the tank, turn pump and taps on and run water until it is no longer pink.

You can then sanitize the tanks with a dilute bleach solution of water (google this or check our RV.net for instructions). I didn't like this part of the process as we ended up dumping close to 72 gallons of valuable water down the drain!! Also, it seemed counter-intuitive to sanitize the tank that is brand new and never had the antifreeze in it.

Next year, we are going to adapt this procedure to using the bypass that normally sucks up the antifreeze to suck a very dilute belach solution into the pipes to sanitize them only (as the main purpose is to get rid of the antifreeze taste).

Once you're done flushing the pipes, put the plug in the Hot water tank (external access), lift the access panel to your HW tank, turn the bypass valves 90 degrees (or as far as they'll go) so they're open then it should start to fill. You should be able to hear it filling up. Open the relief valve and when water starts pouring out it is full.

Have fun!
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Old 11-15-2010, 11:15 AM   #4
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Default Water pump for winderizing

Proudcanuck75
I am affraid that we may not get out in the Funfinder again this year and I'll need to figure out how to winterize the trailer.
The trailer is stored some distance away from our home, so I am trying to get as much information as possible before I make the trip.
You mentioned the "panel near your water pump". Where is that panel?
We too have a 2010 210 WBS. This is our first trailer and this will be our first winter.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:46 AM   #5
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Unless CruiserRV moved it (mine is a 2008 model), the water pump and plumbing harness is located in the cabinet inside the TT where the television sits. Under the open area shelf, on the front, there is a "panel" in the base of the cabinet held in by two screws. Remove the screws and the panel and you'll find "the whole works" inside. You'll find a "rats nest" of wires (for the converter/fuse box located on the end of the cabinet) and all the plumbing for the pump and your shore power and water connections...



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Old 11-16-2010, 05:28 PM   #6
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There is one point that I found here that could cause a problem on the W2010. If you look inside where the pump is you will see where the city water hose comes in and is routed to a one way brass valve. This valve is there so the pump can't push water out the through this connection. It can be unscrewed from the wall and the valve. Take the hose off and you will find water in it and not any RV juice in it, due to the one way valve. This has the potential to freeze and split the line.
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:42 PM   #7
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Webslave & CityCamper:
Thank you Thank you.
This is on my list of things to check out this week when I travel to my trailer storage site.

Bob
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:46 AM   #8
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I use air to "winterize" my system, no pink stuff, so the valve is not an issue as I use an adapter at the shore water hookup to port the air through the rig. If using the winterizing kit, there is, indeed, a bit of water left at the check valve. You can eliminate it by sucking the water out with a plastic syringe (get them at any medical supply house) and a short length of tubing (vacuum line works well). That's the way I used to do it before going the air route. A friend used to poke a wire down the pipe to the valve and depressed it, allowing the water to, hopefully, flow past. He ruined several valves that way... Others just ignore the small amount of water...I suspect, with evaporation and an open end, the water volume isn't enough, on freezing, to do any damage to that short length of hose...



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Old 11-17-2010, 11:09 AM   #9
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I like the air idea.
A few questions.
I probably have some water in the fresh water tank........should I run the pump until there is no more water?
What about water that may be in the pump line...will the air force that out?
What PSI do you set the air compressor to?
What about the hot water tank...I am thinking that I should drain the tank before I put the air to the system to force air through the tank?

Anything else I should think about....look out for....know??
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Old 11-17-2010, 03:28 PM   #10
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ive tried the air method but had bad luck, i just stick with the good ol pink stuff, never failed me yet.
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:29 PM   #11
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Deerslayer:
Thank for your input...what problems did you encounter?

Anybody else out there use air to purge the water lines??
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:57 PM   #12
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I've been "airing" my system for years...no problems, but, you must be thorough in the process, but, then again, you have to be thorough with the pink stuff, too.

Your fresh water tank has a drain valve in it...you'll need to crawl under the TT to see it, but, first you should open that and let your FW tank drain out onto the ground. There may be a little water left in it, but, the volume in that big tank, if frozen, won't do any damage. When the FW tank is drained, run the water pump for a bit with a faucet open...it will clear the pump lines of water and it won't be damaged if run dry for a bit.

Next, go to the water heater (relieve the pressure in the tank first by opening a hot water faucet or pulling the relief valve). Throw your water heater bypass valves to take the tank out of the system. Remove the anode rod and plug assembly and let the tank's water drain onto the ground. While it is draining, open both the cold and hot water low point drain valves up. Go inside and open all of the faucets and hold the toilet flush valve down...this allows most of the water in the system to drain out onto the ground through the low point drains (that's what they are there for). By now, the hot water tank is drained...you either leave the little bit of water in there, or, I flush clean the tank with my garden hose and special curved "flush wand" for water heaters (you can get one at any RV shop). You'd be amazed at the amount of "crud" that accumulates in the tank. When I'm done with that, I've got that trusty syringe (I've actually got a bunch of them for use in my shop) and vacuum line hose and I suck the remaining water out of the bottom of the water heater. While I'm cleaning the water heater, the water has been draining out of the low point drains. When done with the water heater, I install the drain plug / anode assembly and it is good to go. I then close the low point drains, close all the faucets and hook up my air compressor using the adapter (again available at most RV supply houses; get the "no hands" type, your air hose from your compressor can hook up to it with a quick connect). Set air compressor for 45-50 psi and turn on. Go inside and starting with the faucet closest to the the shore water hook up, open it up and let "run" for a minute or so. Hot and cold. Close those, go to next faucet and repeat. Do the toilet and then go outside and do the "optional" outside shower port. For added "safety" I do a quick once around again on the inside faucets. Then I open the low points and let them run for a couple of minutes. While the low points are blowing the last vestiges of water out, I go inside and put 1 cup of the pink stuff down each drain (for the P traps) and a cup in the toilet. Turn off the air compressor and put it away. Close the low point drains and I'm done.

Sounds, complicated, but, once you've got the routine, it can be done almost as quickly as using the pink stuff; you've got to cover the same ground to put the stuff in as I do blowing the water out. A gallon of the pink stuff lasts me about 3 or 4 years, no pink stuff left in any lines next spring.

That's the way I do it. There are many that fear that there may still be enough water left in the system to cause damage...I've not had that problem. There are many that believe and trust in the pink stuff...that's fine, too, as I never had a problem with it back when I did the "traditional" winterizing, but, I could taste it, no matter how many times I flushed the system for the first couple of trips. The only time I couldn't taste it was when I "overdosed" the system with chlorine trying to get the taste to go away. I must say, I don't like the taste of chlorine any more than I liked the taste of the pink stuff...



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Old 11-17-2010, 08:18 PM   #13
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Webslave

Thank you !
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Old 11-19-2010, 05:46 AM   #14
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After spending some time on the web, I found that WEBSLAVE is not the only one on earth that uses air to winterize the water system.
We are expecting some freezing temperatures here so I needed to do something.
So, not liking the antifreeze in the water system idea, I jumped in yesterday with my trusty compressor and gave it a try.
Not having done anything like this before I was a little tentative and it took longer than expected, but I think I got it.
I'll let you know in the spring if I need advise in how to replace the split pipes........but.........I really don't expect that to happen.
Thanks again to WEBSLAVE and DEERSLAYER for your input and advise.

I found that I have an inline water filter under the jumble of pipes and wires near the water pump. I bet I should change that in the spring.

I must say that I am amazed at the "rats nest" of wires and pipes, especially in the compartment with the water pump and filter. I work (well I did until unemployment) in the building construction field and would not see anything like that in a new building.

Bob
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:58 AM   #15
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Nope, not the only and I can't claim that I invented the process. Lots of folks do it that way, and lots use the pink stuff, both with no ill effects. I just happen to be one of the "air heads" (DW heartily agrees with that assessment!) As for how long it takes; better to err on the "long and safe" side, than to rush through it and miss something...that holds true for using the pink stuff, too. Using either process takes deligence in order to prevent a burst pipe.

Good luck, Bob (AKA bobandmuriel), I'm sure you covered everything, and, now, in the spring you don't have any flushing to do...just hook up and go; you can fill the water lines with water at the first campground you stay at.

When I first got into the compartment with the pump, I, too, was a bit amazed at how it looked. It is on my "list" to sometime get in there and straighten it out. I had so many other mods that I wanted to do, and it is, after all, out of sight, that I just haven't gotten around to it yet. Maybe this spring...



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My 2 cents, your mileage may vary...

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2014 Thor Tuscany 40RX DP
2011 Ram 2500 Longhorn CTD HO
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:59 AM   #16
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WEBSLAVE.
DW?

Nice to hear back from you.
We have but one cat "Trouble"......because that is what I am in now that I have let the stray into the house.
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:53 PM   #17
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DW= Dear/Darling Wife
DH= Dear/Darling Husband
etc.

There is a whole boat load of those "shorthand" notations used around the various forums...

TV= Tow Vehicle
TT= Travel Trailer
5er, 5ver, etc.= 5th Wheel
MH= Motor Home
SIL= Sister In Law
BIL= Brother In Law

The list goes on and on



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My 2 cents, your mileage may vary...

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2014 Thor Tuscany 40RX DP
2011 Ram 2500 Longhorn CTD HO
2011 Keystone Cougar 318SAB (now gone)
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:27 PM   #18
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I need to learn the lingo.

Thanks.
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Old 10-17-2011, 02:40 PM   #19
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Default Air vs. Pink Stuff

I'm coming along late in this dialog, but figured I'd add my experience.

Like Webslave, I've used the Air method .. but because I'm always afraid there might be someplace not cleared of H2O, and I don't trust Cruiser to have installed a well designed actual 'low point' drain, I also use Pink! I just did my 214WDS and my system is:

Make sure Fresh Water tank is empty.
Make sure all water pressure is relieved by opening faucets.
Run water pump to ensure no water left in fresh line.
Drain water heater by removal of drain/anode rod.
Open Kitchen Hot faucet to facilitate complete drain.
Remove low point water line caps, let lines drain.
Close bypass valves at water heater lines.
Remove filter and drain water at the inline filter cup at water pump.
Close faucets.
Blow air at City Connect, GENTLY, until no water drains.
Open all faucets ( don't forget the outside shower!) and blow more air at City Connect until no water drains.
Close faucets and low point drains.
Pump Pink Anti-freeze at water pump inlet line and open faucets, one at a time until it is Pink. Note, I use another container to catch the pink so as not to drain into tank.
When all lines are pink, I turn off pump, open low drains again, open faucets to drain pink in lines, then blow the system out one more time to minimize the amount of antifreeze in the lines.
Add cup of Pink to all 3 traps and toilet and I'm done.

Note. Blowing the lines first, minimizes dilution of the Pink, second removes as much as possible to make flushing easier and more effective in spring. I've never had taste issues - from anti-freeze anyway - doing it this way.
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:49 PM   #20
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Anybody else out there use air to purge the water lines??
Good life of peace



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