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Old 09-01-2011, 01:12 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Azusa
Posts: 17
Default Laboring water pump...

I have a 2009 189FBS. We have never used the shower because the pump labors and hardly any water comes out. the same is true when on city water. I removed the check valve on top of the water heater,it looks fine. Im fixing to remove the valve on the lower or inlet and check it. But I need to drain the water heater first. I dont know to do this. Also is looking at a check valve good enough or should i change them out

I have a 2009 Fun Finder trailer. When hooker up to city water the cold side runs fine. But the HOT side barely runs at all. When using on bored pump all runs fine.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:28 PM   #2
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Default laboring water pump... agin

I would to add that the pump labors using the sinks also.....

I have a 2009 Fun Finder trailer. When hooker up to city water the cold side runs fine. But the HOT side barely runs at all. When using on bored pump all runs fine.
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Old 09-01-2011, 05:48 PM   #3
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Location: Southwest Arizona
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If the shower has low flow on both the pump and city water (providing your city water is 40 psi or better), hot or cold, then the problem is probably the water restriction disk in the shower head. They put a really small restricter disk in those heads to conserve the maximum amount of water possible; resulting in almost useless water volume. I'd check that first, most folks that use their showers regularly either take them out or they put a replacement shower head in, Oxygenics is a popular upgrade.

If you are having low flow with the pump on your sinks and shower, it may be a combination of the restricter plate in the shower and a restriction or air leak (is your winterizer valve at the pump closed?) You don't mention whether the pump's issues are with cold or hot or both. If it is "laboring" with the hot only, the problem will be after the split of water from the pump to the heater and to the system's cold side. If it is with the cold only, then the problem will be on the cold side after the split. If it is with both, then the problem should be between the pump and the split. I'd check the winterizer valve first...if you had it done by a company or if you did it yourself (the winterizing) it is quite possible that the valve was left in the open position allowing the pump to draw air and very little water resulting in very low flow at the sinks and shower.

To empty your water heater; from outside, open the water heater access panel (where the vent is...about 12" square with a release toggle on top). Inside, you'll see the "working" parts of the water heater. You should see a large bolt, it should be ~1 1/16" if memory serves me. Release all water pressure in your system by opening water faucets (cold and hot) and then remove that bolt. That is your water heater's anode and it will look pretty awful, not unusual, it deteriorates (sacrifices itself) so that your water heater doesn't corrode. When you are close to having it all the way out, stand back...your water heater will let go with 6 gallons of water pretty quick out of that big hole . That will drain your heater...put a few wraps of white thread tape on that anode's threads when you are ready to re-install it.

As for check valves...they usually either work or they don't. If you have one at your water heater, it would control the temperature of your water more than the volume. It is used when winterizing to bypass the water heater so that it doesn't fill with anti-freeze when pumped through your pipes by the pump. If it fails, the result is usually tepid water caused by cold water mixing with hot water as it leaks past the valve, it won't however, usually restrict the flow any, it merely allows cold water to mix with the hot. The other check valve is between the pump and the city water inlet. It prevents the pump from pumping water out the city inlet while still allowing shore water in past the water pump. Again, it either works or it doesn't. If broken, it will allow the pump to pump water out the city water inlet, or it will prevent any city water from getting past it into your system. If that one failed, you would either get water pumped outside on the ground, or no city water inside, but, your pump would still work.

Those are the usual gemlins... Can't really point to a definitive solution without knowing more about the problem...but, you have a few more ideas to work with now.

My 2 cents, your mileage may vary...

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Old 09-02-2011, 12:09 PM   #4
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Default Water Heater Fixed

Thank you webslave for all the info! When I took the lower check valve out it was in pieces. Put it back together and it works great. Thanks again, Jerry in California.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:00 AM   #5
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Idaho
Posts: 87
Default Oxygenics head

Jerry, Highly recommend the Oxygenics shower head ... we've used it for the last 3 yrs in our previous trailer (Trailmanor) and it REALLY makes a difference in the shower. If you're an individual who MUST have that high pressure and volume that only the plumbing in a sticknbrick or large coach bathroom provides, it won't help. But it does do a decent job of compromise for reasonable pressure and water conservation. When we traded, the oxygenics came with us!

Plumbing is always a challenge, but even more so in RVs. Glad you found your issue! For future info .... You said the 'lower check valve' was in pieces? Not sure what upper and lower 'check valves' you are referring to. The only ' upper and lower' valves I see in our plumbing are the bypass valves for winterizing noted by webslave. A good description here might help some of us with maintenance to avoid your problem?
THX and Good Camping!
Fred n' Jeri

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