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04-21-2022, 11:13 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,106
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Prof.... I would guess the guy at Jiffy that rotated your tires used a 12 point socket instead of a 6 point socket and also failed to use a 'torque tube' on the air wrench or used excessive air pressure. Non-regulated air pressure can also twist off the lug nut studs as have seen that happen. Any over-tightened lug nuts make it near impossible to remove a lug nut when changing a flat tire on the road.
Of course, he could have used a metric or SAE size socket when should have used the opposite depending on the requirement for your lug nuts.
Regardless they messed up and it caused you to purchase new lug nuts. I would never do any business with such an establishment again...my opinion of course.
As a side note: I do all my own service work so know it's done correctly unless it requires equipment like a hoist or computer analyzer I do not have.
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2012 Fun Finder XT 276 Toy Hauler & Harley Davidson Ultra Classic with Condor wheel chock
2014 Dodge Ram 2500 AT 4X4 Crew Cab 6.4 L Hemi, 373 gears, tow package, Rambox option, Revolver X2 tonneau cover, Equal-I-zer anti-sway hitch.
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04-22-2022, 06:43 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 262
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If a person applies what they believe is the appropriate torque to a lug nut on their camper (~110 ft-lbs) or tow vehicle (for my truck ~135 ft-lbs), a 4%+/- difference isn’t going to prevent removal of the lug nuts if a wheel needs to be removed. I stand by my suggestion that the HF torque wrench will suffice for torquing camper wheel lug nuts for most individuals.
RE: Jiffy Lube, using them, for anything more than pulling into their bay during a hail storm, is out of the question. I had an oil change a a local JL many years ago and I’m convinced that a stripped oil pan drain plug and subsequent oil leak was the result of the untrained “tech”.
RE: wheel issues, my most recent tire purchase (brand name tires at a local “farm & home” store), included rebalancing and rotation every 7,500 miles. After each rotation I’m required to bring my truck back in to have the lug nut torque checked after ~25 miles of driving. The tire tech has always used a manual (not an air wrench) when doing the re-torque. I’ve been satisfied with the he service.
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If you're not livin' on the edge, you're takin' up too much space!
2007 Shadow Cruiser x210, 2004 RAM 2500 4x4 QuadCab SLT 5.9L CTD, Factory Tow Pkg (3.73 axle), HaulMaster WDH
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04-23-2022, 01:13 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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Lug nut saga continues -- I just got an extendable breaker bar at Harbor Freight. Why extendable? Because when it is collapsed, it fits into my truck toolbox. When extended, it is a full 24 inches long, which should give me enough leverage to remove a stubborn lug nut.
In a perfect world, a solid-piece (non-extendable) breaker bar would probably be better. But in the real world, I have to have a place to put my tools, rather than having them skate around in my cargo bed.
I think that the better quality professional grade breaker bars have ratcheting heads. On my cheaper bar, the half inch drive rotates but does not ratchet.
Life is a series of compromises.
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2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
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04-24-2022, 02:03 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profdant139
Lug nut saga continues -- I just got an extendable breaker bar at Harbor Freight. Why extendable? Because when it is collapsed, it fits into my truck toolbox. When extended, it is a full 24 inches long, which should give me enough leverage to remove a stubborn lug nut.
In a perfect world, a solid-piece (non-extendable) breaker bar would probably be better. But in the real world, I have to have a place to put my tools, rather than having them skate around in my cargo bed.
I think that the better quality professional grade breaker bars have ratcheting heads. On my cheaper bar, the half inch drive rotates but does not ratchet.
Life is a series of compromises.
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You’ll be fine with the extendable breaker bar from HF. It will certainly meet your needs AND fit nicely in your tool box!
RE: ratcheting head, I’m pretty sure that breaker bars, by design, DON’T have ratcheting heads (otherwise they’d just be big ratchets ). The pawls in the ratchet heads are the “weak link” of the tool. The single pivot of a breaker bar head is much stronger yet still allows for swinging the lever around every 180 deg so you can keep the socket on the nut being removed.
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If you're not livin' on the edge, you're takin' up too much space!
2007 Shadow Cruiser x210, 2004 RAM 2500 4x4 QuadCab SLT 5.9L CTD, Factory Tow Pkg (3.73 axle), HaulMaster WDH
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05-02-2022, 12:35 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Los Angeles. CA
Posts: 149
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Interesting post, I just purchased some Good Year Endurance tires. I never thought of checking the torque on the lug nuts. 110 lbs, thanks..
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2008 FF Cruzer 139X
2013 Honda Pilot 4WD
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