My Trailer Stinks!!

[Chirpz]

Originally Posted by Michigantraveler

Here is the video of the factory tour if anyone is interested. There are three parts. This was 2010 or 2011.
https://youtu.be/jIvTq3YISZQ

This one shows older models like ours. No curved roof.

https://youtu.be/677YkrpCJeo

Thanks, I'll take a look.

[Chirpz]

UPDATE!!

Last fall when we made a couple of trips using the new vent, the smell faintly lingered but was greatly reduced.

So far this year, we have made two trips and I'm happy to report that the smell is completely gone!!

So, the repair and the vent worked for me. On hindsight, I probably only needed to repair the faulty pipe...the cyclone vent provides super power venting and is most likely an overkill, but I bought the vent before I knew about the short pipe.

[Eagle]

My black water tank vent cap got damaged, needed replacement and I looked at the cyclone vent but opted for this one mostly because it sits lower.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/360-S...-p/31-0230.htm

[Michigantraveler]

The new to us Shasta was missing the gray water vent cap. Paul needed to fanagle putting a new one on because the pipe was way down in and broken off. The repair and new cap work fine.

[PaintyLiz]

Originally Posted by Chirpz

I decided to get to the root of the problem and tear open the closet wall.

Hey, since you have the wall open, don't close it up - add shelves!!

Great job explaining about the pipe. Glad I don't have that problem.

Liz

[PaintyLiz]

Hey Chirpz!

What size pipe do you use to extend the stack? It looks like 2 in od. Does PVC work? I am having the same problem. And it is the same issue. I looked at the vent from the top and it barely comed up as high as the styrofoam. Good to know that it does not fall into the tank, but they sure were penny-pinching when they bought the stacks.

Thanks for all the info and help!

Liz

[profdant139]

Liz, I can tell you that on my 2012 X-139, it is 2 inch PVC. (My pipe is long enough -- it goes above the roof.)

The trick is going to be joining the extension to the existing pipe. They make these couplers that might work -- not sure if they are as air-tight as would be needed. I am going to try to post a photo:


Click For Full-Size Image.

[Eagle]

Those rubber couplers are called Fernco fittings and yes, they do seal tight when the hose clamps on each end are secured. Used many of them for waste water plumbing repairs on sewer systems.. not on campers but not much difference.

They have a multitude of sizes, styles too.

https://www.fernco.com/

[Chirpz]

There is NO way you can use a connector like that unless you open up the wall and cut the present pipe then patch on along piece using that connector to hook them up. You have to have room to work so you can turn the screws.

If you are going to go to that trouble, then why not use the right connector... a standard pipe joint that is used to connect two pieces together. You have to use PVC glue, but you get a better joint. Its pretty easy. Cost is about the same. The standard joint is cheaper but you have to buy glue so that offsets the cost of the rubber joint.

[PaintyLiz]

Hi guys!

I was finally able to get my phone to cooperate and post a photo just FYI. This is how high or rather how low the top of my sewer vent pipe is. I looked at the top of the holding tank as best I could and it doesn't appear that it is depressed, which was my concern. That would have explained why the stack was so low but it would be much more difficult to fix. I'm hoping it's just that they used a really short stack.

I appreciate the info on the rubber joints, however my plan at this point is to glue a thin piece of PVC or similar inside an extension pipe, and slip it down to the inside of the existing stack. There is absolutely no room to access the top of the existing pipe, and I don't really want to take the wall apart again, although I will if I have to. It's where my washing machine is LOL

It's possible I won't even have to do that, I have ordered that same turbo topper thing as Chirpz demonstrated, and I'm hoping that it will be long enough to join up with the existing pipe and still work. However, I'll probably have to put an extra piece in so that it's higher. I won't know until I actually have it in my little paws.

Actually, based on Chirpz's comment about the gap around the pipes, I suppose I should get in the wall with some great stuff. We are now full-time, me and Sir Crapsalot, I mean my husband and there is absolutely no way I'm cutting into that pipe in the 107 degree heat we have been having here in Texas!!! Accckkk!

Liz

[Chirpz]

Whew!! on the temperature. Used to live in TX and I know what you mean. You may be able to rig a temporary fix but to kill the smell, you MUST have an absolute air tight seal. I was once working on a home and drilled a 5/16" hole through a vent pipe. Didn't know it until weeks later when the home owners were over powered with stink. I had to open the wall and fix the hole.

Don't expect your smell to disappear instantly... there will be an improvement. But that smell has already soaked into the surrounding foam and it takes quite a while for it to totally disappear. Can't say how long...but expect a few months.

[PaintyLiz]

Phew!!! Months??? Bleah!!

funny thing about the smell, we have had the camper for 10 years and never had this problem. But now that we are full-time, the black tank gets a lot fuller before we empty it. And where we are now we are using it 100% of the time. So it's getting a lot more use. The pipe doesn't appear to be supported and I am afraid that it has slid down and has caused the top of the holding tank to sag down so that the bottom of the vent actually contacts the liquid. This would seal it so that it could not vent gas and the gas would have nowhere to go except out the toilet. So we will just have to be alert and drain the tank more often. If/when I open the wall, I could lift the pipe up and secure it. I wonder if it will hurt anything to lift it a bit. The camper is 10 years old and has over 22,000 miles on it (most long trips in the last few years) so it's possible that the pipe has put pressure on the holding tank. When I took a picture with my phone, the tank did not look concave so maybe my worry is unnecessary. What do you think?

By the way, I did the same thing Chirpz did and tugged it up with a pair of pliers and when I released it, it immediately popped back down into the ceiling. (With a huge horrendous blast of nasty air in my face LOL) So if it was glued, I broke it loose.

P.s. when I do the modification I will make sure to have it air tight. I have lots of PVC cement ��

Liz

[Chirpz]

I trust you scanned through this whole thread.
It is impossible for the pipe to slide down into the tank.... it is a threaded fitting. Perhaps, the whole tank, pipe and all slipped out of place. I considered that in our case, but after a close inspection of the tank from beneath the trailer, it was evident that the tank did not move downward at all. It was just a flaw in manufacture.

If you fix it, it will get better. After that, periodically scour out your tank with one of those rotary blasters and use anti smell treatment.

[PaintyLiz]

Originally Posted by Chirpz

I trust you scanned through this whole thread.
It is impossible for the pipe to slide down into the tank.... it is a threaded fitting.

yes I did see that. That is very reassuring. I just thought that the weight of the pipe might have depressed the top of the tank. But, I hope I'm just being overly neurotic about this LOL. Another problem is that where we are now requires us to use a natural biologic treatment for the tank which I don't think is actually working very well. I'm tempted to sneak some blue stuff in there and fix the problem LOL

Liz

[Chirpz]

Originally Posted by PaintyLiz

yes I did see that. That is very reassuring. I just thought that the weight of the pipe might have depressed the top of the tank. But, I hope I'm just being overly neurotic about this LOL. Another problem is that where we are now requires us to use a natural biologic treatment for the tank which I don't think is actually working very well. I'm tempted to sneak some blue stuff in there and fix the problem LOL

Liz

That is exactly what I thought at first until I tore the whole thing apart and saw how it was connected.

Biologic treatment..... grrrr. I would shun that and just keep my eye out for tank inspectors. That is probably a rule made by someone who never spent a single night in a RV.

[jbfunfinder]

I know I am late to this thread, but in case someone has read through it and still cannot find the source of a bad smell in their trailer, the following may be another possibility. Some 4 season "eastern" FunFinders have a complete Darco underwrap. This skin can trap smells/gasses which eventually may pass through holes or seams in the floor to the interior of the trailer. If for some reason the black tank is pierced or ruptured, the smell has got to go somewhere. As as fellow forum member Profdan139 is fond of saying, "Don't ask me how I know this...."

[PaintyLiz]

Okay, here is the latest update. I took the wall apart and put great stuff around the top and bottom where the pipe comes into the cabin. There was a large gap at the bottom where a mouse could actually get in, but maybe they didn't worry about that since it was an enclosed area that he would enter. Still bad in my opinion!

I have a turbo vent topper thing on order, it will not arrive till midweek. (From Walmart which I like to support because they provide more jobs and pay a lot more taxes than Amazon... Plus it was cheaper there LOL)

I have bought a new type of biologic tank control, it is called Happy Camper holding tank treatment. (here's what it is) It has very good reviews including a write-up on a Blog by a woman who has been full time for 10 years. (The Road Less Traveled... Check it out if you haven't been there she's really good)

It seems that the enzyme-based biologic I was using does not work well (or possibly at all) in high temperatures. It is projected to be over 107 degrees here today and has been for the past few weeks, added to the fact that I have a small uninsulated black tank, I can understand why I was having issues LOL

The new stuff is mineral-based. Hopefully it will work well. My husband has gone off to the house, which is up for sale, so I have to empty a black tank by myself! This is a first. One more skill under my belt so to speak ...haha

I am dedicated to trying to find a biologic that will work, I do not like contaminating the water supply with formaldehyde. I am at my sister's place and she has a very small septic system. So, biologic it is! However if it works, I will use it all the time.

Jb, I have no wrap or anything under my camper, it's basically a piece of plywood nailed to a frame. but it's good to know, so if I ever upgrade to a larger / more insulated camper I'll know what to look for.

On that note, I'm curious if anyone has insulated the bottom of their camper? I was thinking of using foam board. Since it's between all the framing it shouldn't blow off very easily if I secure it. I suppose I should start a new thread for this.

Thank you Chirpz for all the encouragement and research and taking the time to post it all.

I will check back in a few days and let you know how the new biologic is working.

Liz

[PaintyLiz]

Oh, p.s. if you are interested in that happy camper stuff, the big box is really only about the size of a quart. It looks much bigger online. That is what we ordered because it was.... Cheaper! LOL at least per use it's cheaper

Liz

[Eagle]

There is a few photos on this forum someplace ?? of a party that insulated the underside of their camper using the pink styro foam sheets. Not sure if 3/4" thick or ??. IIRC they glued and screwed it on using short screws so not to pierce through the plywood flooring.

[PaintyLiz]

Originally Posted by Eagle

IIRC they glued and screwed it on using short screws so not to pierce through the plywood flooring.

Yes the wrong screws could be problematic... Somewhat like a bed of nails lol... Acupuncture for the feet? I will have to look for that post! Thanks Eagle

Liz