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08-31-2020, 08:28 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4
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New owners with a problem
lol we just hope someone here can help!
Our (new-to-us) 2007 fun finder 189 FBR have discovered that the diamond plating installed over the front slope isn't secured at the roof very well. Many of the screws are coming out and don't want to be fastened down.
We have no front window. Seller did not inform us if there had been any window.
Does anyone have any pictures of what is under there that we might reattach securely to? Called Cruiser RV and they couldn't help as they weren't owners of the company in 2006-07..they were very nice though.
It also appears when the front running light covers were replaced, they aren't sealed or even more than a cover..cosmetic/coverup?
There's no leakage signs inside, but some warping/bubbling around the mid/lower left front.
Any and all insights are appreciated, thank you in advance.
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James and Carla 2007 Fun Finder 189 FBR
Ram Long Horn
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09-01-2020, 10:35 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cumming, Ga.
Posts: 140
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can you snap a couple of pics of the area?
warping, bubbling are signs of delamination, or water damage, in most instances.
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09-01-2020, 01:02 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4
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James and Carla 2007 Fun Finder 189 FBR
Ram Long Horn
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09-01-2020, 01:12 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Oregon
Posts: 4
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dZ-UCqB2LJTUZkdDoEtiUNcinWiybolG
trying to post..
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09-01-2020, 08:11 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: TN
Posts: 414
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I was inspecting our 2012 210UDS, front lower area where the front "skin" mounts to the lower frame. Many/Most of the screws were rusted and/or broken off. So-I removed them all and peeled up the front from the bottom to about 2/3 up. Here's what I found. There is an aluminum frame that the skin is mounted to. So-based on that, and some other photos I've seen, most of the exterior walls would be screwed to aluminum framework. I would remove a good screw, head to the hardware store and buy a size that's larger. This will allow the larger screw to tighten up in the "stripped" hole. I'd recommend a longer screw too (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer.) More thread will bite and make it more secure.
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2012 FunFinder X 210UDS
4-68 watt flexible panels; 1-215 glass panel/4 Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries
2014 Ford F350 6.7 Liter PowerStroke V-8 Diesel longbed, SRW
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09-02-2020, 11:24 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Cumming, Ga.
Posts: 140
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wow, that's the first one I've seen with the diamond plate across the top, it looks nice. I see how the light due to the diamond areas.s could cause leaks tho unless they are really sealed .
The nest size up screw idea should work well.
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09-02-2020, 06:05 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: TN
Posts: 414
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followup
To follow-up to seal the running lights - I would remove the mounting screws, put a blob of silicon caulk in the hole the wiring runs in to. Then, I would put a bead of silicon around the hole, press the light fixture back in to place and replace the screws. Then, finally, I would run a bead of silicon around the entire light housing.
Being that diamond plate is much more rigid than the material used for the front cap, I would use some Dicor Self-Leveling sealant at the top where it meets the roof. Don't want it lifting and separating, causing a major issue.
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2012 FunFinder X 210UDS
4-68 watt flexible panels; 1-215 glass panel/4 Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries
2014 Ford F350 6.7 Liter PowerStroke V-8 Diesel longbed, SRW
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09-03-2020, 08:06 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 8
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Nice
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just2ofUs
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That diamond plate looks cool!
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09-04-2020, 08:42 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 277
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I agree, that diamond plating at the top looks awesome. We have an '07 x210 that looks quite similar (no diamond plating up top tho ). Runner421 beat me to the punch with the oversized screw suggestion! Upgrading the sealing of the clearance lights is a great idea too!
We also have some "warping/bubbling" at various spots too . Haven't thought much about what would be involved to fix it. Cost/benefit analysis might just tell me to "get over it" it's a 13 year old travel trailer that spends 8-10 months in storage .
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If you're not livin' on the edge, you're takin' up too much space!
2007 Shadow Cruiser x210, 2004 RAM 2500 4x4 QuadCab SLT 5.9L CTD, Factory Tow Pkg (3.73 axle), HaulMaster WDH
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09-04-2020, 01:08 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Hickory Flat, Ga.
Posts: 739
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Our front marker lights are reflectors. No wires. When the front was replaced the PO decided to eliminate any possible leak and used flat stick on reflectors. He figured it wouldn't make any difference and so far it hasn't.
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Alan
2005 T139FK
1995 Chevy G20 aka "Big Blue",
1994 GMC Camper Van,
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09-06-2020, 12:14 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 101
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It appears that this non stock. Most likely someone did a repair and replaced the front panel and added the diamond plate. These trailers were notorious for leaking at the front marker lights and the seams. I had the entire front of mine replaced in 2010. It was completely rotted and collapsed on the highway.
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