newbie-few questions

[sovos]

We are very excited to be new owners of a 2011 shadow cruiser 185 FBS.
We've taken it on 3 trips now and have a few question. We are not very mechanical so appreciate any advice.

1. the toilet seems to have developed a leak that comes from below by the foot pedal. How to diagnose?
2. where can i find a cover for the 2 burner cook top that we don't use?
3. Has anyone modified the closet next to the bathroom? Just looking for ideas.
4. Towing with an older F150. Not currently using any stabalizer bars. How big of a deal is this? The trailer is level or nearly level when being towed.
5. The box that contains the fuses makes a very quiet noise but it is a motor sound that varies...sounds like its straining or winding up and down. Is this normal? I'm not sure what this is for?
6. For winterizing i've read in the mannual the fresh water tank needs to be filled above the minimum water pump operating level...how do i know how much that is?
Last question:
the door comes open while we're on the road. we've resorted to using duct tape to hold it closed. anyone else have this trouble and how did you solve it? thanks
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[Wolfpacker76]

#4- you may be ok without stabilizer bars on the 185, but I would use them if traveling long distance, especially on the interstate. A good gust of wind or an 18 wheeler passing by could spell disaster for you, your camper and your truck.
#6- If you don't plan on using the camper much in the winter and you're in freezing temps, I would think the tank should be empty to prevent ice.

[LJAZ]

There's a couple of possibilities. Either where the water line enters the toilet or where the toilet bolts to the floor are good places to start looking. Most likely you have a Thetford brand toilet. You can download a manual from their website for your particular model which should help you troubleshoot your leak.

Camping World will probably have a stove cover. Might not be cheap though.

I think there are few posts here on mods to the closets. Try searching on closet. Here's one thread:
http://www.funfinderclub.com/phpBB2/...ghlight=closet

By stabilizer bars do you mean weight distribution? Or anti sway? I would think you would definitely want to use a weight distribution hitch. The anti-sway probably isn't necessary. I don't have anti-sway on my setup.

Where I live there's no need to winterize so I can't help much there. Here's a site I've found pretty helpful with the basics:
http://rvbasics.com/techtips/rv-fres...nterizing.html

[M&M]

Hi,

#2 Stove top cover: We made a cover out of wood. We got a laminated wood panel at Menards and added a wood rim around it to clear the burners. We added blocks on the inside rear corner to hold it in place. We painted it with a thin coat of paint so the wood grain would show through, and then varnished it. I stays in place well and provides a nice additional work space. I had planned to send a picture, but I found that is not so easy to do. If I had your email address I would send the picture.

#5 The humming you hear is from the power converter, which converts 110 volts to run your 12 volt lights and other items. Our camper hums also, and I think that is normal. It is possible there is a small cooling fan on the unit which might account for part or all of the hum.

[sovos]

thanks for all of the advice.
you folks are great!
here's our email. sapa@sapaRealtor.com

anyone experience the door flying open while we're driving down the road?

[fourfourto]

Originally Posted by sovos

thanks for all of the advice.
you folks are great!
here's our email. sapa@sapaRealtor.com

anyone experience the door flying open while we're driving down the road?

I had the front window protector fly up , i must have forgoton to lock it

I use a friction sway bar on the door side,I find the WD swaty bars are a pain and not needed.
The friction type are a fraction of the cost and a easy install.

[sovos]

so here's an update on things....we found a 23" x 23" butcher block top to perfectly cover the stove burners. glued a couple of wood strips on the bottom tight to the oven and it doesn't slide. cost $54. looks awesome!
http://www.containerstore.com/shop/e...N=80348&Nao=20

removed the bunk...reduced some weight and opened up the top nicely. may add shelving but not sure yet.

took the trailer to "camper world" for a repair on the door that flies open. They charged us $130 and put in two little washer spacers behind the latch. so far so good. wish i earned that kind of moola for a few minutes work! wish i'd been smart enough to figure that out on my own....just sayin!

went to Menards (hardward super store) and bought wire shelf brackets and shelves. cost about $30 for everything. Installed easily and working great.

the winterizing is a little crazy. had to call cruiser and they were somewhat helpful. turns out the water pumps now don't have that little hose everyone talks about that "seems to go nowhere" instead it takes 6 gallons of antifreeze in the fresh water tank to pump through the lines.

took off the toilet and tightened everything up. haven't had a chance to used the camper again so don't know if it worked. hope so!

after consulting with the "Camper World" people we determined since the trailer is level when trailering, and i can't feel any sway in the truck...no additional stabalizer necessary.

[M&M]

Hi,

It sounds like you are having fun with your new camper.

If you haven't yet used the anit-freeze, another option is to buy an adapter that attaches to the city water hook up and use compressed air to blow out the lines. Of course, that assumes you have access to an air compressor.

We found instuctions on how to do this using Google.

Good luck!

[ArizAl]

For winterizing, if you don't have a compresser to blow out all the lines, you can buy a winterizing kit to install by your water pump to use next year instead of buying all that RV Antifreese. Just follow the directions that should come with the kit and be sure to drain the hotwater heater so you don't fill that with Antifreese.
Congrats on your Trailer,
ArizAl

[fourfourto]

I put 2 gallons of anti-freeze into fresh water tank After bypassing H20 heater and draining compleatly,and that enough to get all traps and lines.Be carefull not do run pump dry for more then a few seconds.
I disconect the small hose from city water to factory filter and empty out the little bit of H20 in the bend and also do that to the other line with bend where the presure valve is connecting to H20 lines.
I also empty cartrige and change filter.

In the spring I put in 5 gallons of H20 into tank,pump out to all lines then fill with H20 with 1 cup bleach let it sit for 1 hour then pump through lines and drain.
then refill with H20 for 1st trip.

[FIRSTTIMERV]

First identify where your fresh water tank is, there should be an access panel above this tank, either on the inside or outside of your trailer. Remove the 4 screws and panel, you will then see your water pump and an amass of hoses and wires. If you have a winterize kit installed by Cruiser or your dealer you will find it here with a valve to by-pass the water supply from the fresh water tank. If you have a kit installed you will see a coiled clear plastic hose, this is the hose that you will insert into your anti freeze, turn pump on and open one faucet at a time till you see anti freeze running out.once done put bypass valve back to normal, re-install panel.

[bandit_74]

We just got our new 2011 Shadow Cruiser 185 fbs leftover this weekend and noticed the same issue with the door. We made it about 3 miles from the dealers lot before the door came open. I stopped, shut the door and made it another mile before it came open again. I found that the door has a keyed handle lock which still allows the door to pop open and it also has a keyed bolt lock which fixed the problem. After locking the bolt we made the nearly 500 mile trip back home with no further door mishaps.
Not only does the bolt lock keep the door closed during travel, it also adds a little security during travel stops.