Newbie hot water tank

[TeacherFunFinder]

I just got my 2014 Fun Finder today and setting it up. The hot water tank is not filling and I'm hooked up to city water and grey water tank is open. The RV place had antifreeze in lines and I flushed it out but what am I not doing that is causing the hot water tank to not fill? There is no longer air in lines either.

[DiverRick]

To put the antifreeze in, the hot water tank was bypassed to keep it out of the HW tank.
I'm guessing you need to reverse the bypass by turning the valve(s) back.
Some set ups have 3 valves, some have 1. Take a look at the lines going into the tank and it should be easy to figure it out.



Ps. Grey tank is not related to your HW system so not sure what you mean by grey tank is "open".

[profdant139]

Teacher, welcome to the Club!!

This is probably obvious to you, but in order to fill the hot water tank, you have to open the hot water faucet (usually in the kitchen sink). It'll sputter for a little while till the tank is full.

[APD]

What they both said. The water heater tank was, most likely, bypassed. When they fill the lines with antifreeze they bypass and drain the hot water tank to protect it (and save six gallons of antifreeze). You'll need to follow Diver Ricks advice for the tank to fill and then follow ProfDan's advice to remove the six gallons of air trapped in the tank. Make sure it's full of water before turning it on or it will overheat and self destruct.
If they drained the tank, check that the drain plug was replaced or you'll have water running out the drain outside.

[Rocky Mtn marmot]

You should also unscrew the anode rod and replace it if it is badly corroded. You can also flush out the water heater while the anode rod is removed. The anode rod is sacrificial in order to prevent corrosion of the tank itself. Use teflon plumbing tape on threads to install.

[sherrb1158]

Just a heads up in order to follow "Rocky Mtn marmots" excellent maintenance advice on changing out the water heater anode rod when it is needed:

It will likely be a "Suburban" brand anode rod and will require you have a 1 1/16" six-point socket and likely an extension arm with a universal joint to get past the fittings that surround it in the water heater access panel to remove it. I had to buy one separately for this purpose because it is larger than any I had in any of my socket sets kits. If it's been awhile since the prior owner changed it out then a spraying on the outside with "Liquid Wrench" or similar may be needed to unscrew it. (From experience!)

I change mine about once a year, but you'll need to look at yours because it depends on your water type and usage. There are some good videos on YouTube about this.

Of course, this is a maintenance tip and isn't necessary to get your water heater filling .... the guys covered that above.

Best to you!

[profdant139]

Great advice on the 1 1/16 socket -- I tried doing this job with a pair of pliers and it did not end well.

Two other tips -- when re-installing the anode rod, use the socket without the wrench to get it started -- you need fingertip control to align the threads, but you also need the leverage of the socket in order to counter-act the weight of the rod itself. This sounds complicated but it is not.

And for my second tip, do not over-tighten the anode after you have gotten it screwed in. It has to be tighter than finger tight, but not a hundred pounds of torque, either.

Don't ask how I learned this second tip.

[sherrb1158]

Great point on not over-tightening .... and use a couple of wraps of Teflon tape on the threads when installing the new one.

I had to get a strapping guy friend to loosen the first one I replaced which was there from a prior owner. I'm pretty strong for a female but I couldn't budge that first one even after letting the Liquid Wrench soak in. Guy power and a commercial truck wrench got the first one off and I am now very careful to not overtighten it and I replace it on a regular schedule! Lesson learned .... I've never had a problem removing the anode since then!

[DiverRick]

Originally Posted by profdant139

.....Two other tips -- when re-installing the anode rod, use the socket without the wrench to get it started -- you need fingertip control to align the threads, but you also need the leverage of the socket in order to counter-act the weight of the rod itself. This sounds complicated but it is not......

EVERYONE who has ever replaced their anode rod quietly nodded as you described this! Kinda made me chuckle.


Have we heard from the OP if bypass valves were the cause of his issue?


btw: for others mentioning it, we seem to get two seasons out of our rods.

[sherrb1158]

Hahahaaa ..... I found myself holding my mouth funny and squinting my eyes as I read "profdant139's" post about re-installing the new rod and re-living the experience!

On the replacement interval, SE Texas has ridiculously hard and limey water and I use it about a week every month, hence the once a year for me. It all depends on conditions.

I hope that "Teacher" has her hot water going with y'all's excellent instructions!

[profdant139]

Instead of teflon tape, I have been using teflon paste. It stays in the threads and does not come unwrapped, the way that teflon tape sometimes does.

[delray83]

I noticed the anode rod on my newly acquired fun finder was removed from the water heater laying inside the access door. Prior owner was very, very organized neighbor but the threading channel inside the heater was badly corroded and covered in white mineral scale about halfway in on the interior side. I tried to remove it by softening with some oil and chipping it away inside the threads. The rod would still only thread in halfway - thinking it has always been installed this way. Cleaned, applied teflon tape and installed as far as I could. I guess if it doesn't leak - then I am okay?

[profdant139]

If it doesn't leak, you should be ok.

But it might be a good idea to purchase rust remover (it's a paste) and clean out those threads. Maybe use a wirebrush toothbrush -- Harbor Freight should have them in the welding department.

[RipVan]

Originally Posted by profdant139

If it doesn't leak, you should be ok.

But it might be a good idea to purchase rust remover (it's a paste) and clean out those threads. Maybe use a wirebrush toothbrush -- Harbor Freight should have them in the welding department.

I might be a bit overly concerned but I'm generally very careful about using anything (like Teflon paste, rust treatment, etc) that has the potential to contaminate the freshwater plumbing system. I don't even like to Winterize the FW plumbing with RV antifreeze. RE: the threads on the hot water tank where the anode is placed, I've used a light coating of cooking oil after I've used a wire brush (as suggested above) to clean the threads. I try to dry the threads as much as possible before applying the oil. I've used a light coating of petroleum jelly before too. While it's NOT recommended that it be ingested, I'm pretty sure that in the small amount in the threads, it's not toxic. (That might also be true for the other substances but I've never put those products on chapped lips so I can't say for sure)
RE: the anode rod, I've not replaced the one that I initially installed ~9 years ago. It's only about half consumed. I do have a replacement anode available when that one is spent but until the current one is mostly gone, I'll continue with its use. I too, lay the anode in the bottom of the water heater bay when the camper is Winterized. I don't know just how helpful it is but I also try to get as much water out of the tank when Winterizing so that in the Spring there's minimal moisture in the bottom of the tank that might contaminate the plumbing system.
Hopefully, the OP has figured out the valving that allows the tank to fill. As mentioned, it's VERY important that the water heater tank is full BEFORE the heater (either gas or electric) is turned on. Irreparable damage is the likely result if this is not done. Unless one understands the valving arrangement, I don't know if there is a way to verify that the tank is full. I suppose one could open the "pressure relief" and close it when water starts spurting out. THE valve arrangement on my x210 is readily accessible, simple and obvious as to how the water is routed. I've not had any issues (yet ).

[profdant139]

Rip, I am ashamed to say that it never crossed my mind that teflon paste might be bad for one's health. A little quick online research indicates that teflon is thought to be non-toxic and suitable for use in potable water -- but better safe than sorry.

I will look for an alternative.

[Joe2007Funfinder]

Most thread sealing past is listed as potable water safe. Take a look at the tube to confirm.