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06-06-2016, 07:31 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Calif./Hi.
Posts: 30
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Norcold N300 Now Staying Lit after not.
So ever since I got my used FF16 I've had trouble keeping the Fridge lighted. This Fridge is powered by Battery, Propane and AC Electric. Worked fine on AC. marginally on DC but would not stay lit on propane. I thought I traced it to the Interrupter and got a new one but that didn't fix it. Finally I just bypassed the Interrupter and ran it that way for ever but that also bypasses the little meter that tells you there is a Flame. Last week I decided I'm going to Google this thing until I find a cure, and I did! Turns out Norcold had "to big of wires" going to the interrupter with to much resistance so the millivolts were not getting through to tell the Interrupter that the beast was on. Turns out Norcold put out a "kit" to fix this. It's part#628119, came out in 2005 and you can buy it on Amazon for $10. It consists of to color coded smaller wires to replace the bigger ones. Comes with very easy to follow instructions. IT WORKS! Who would of thunk it?
I wonder if it will now stay lit while I'm driving down the road naw that couldn't possibly happen. Maybe though. Life does keep getting better and better. HH
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2005 4Runner
2004 FF16
Old Guy and DW, who love wandering the West! (well, I do anyway).
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06-06-2016, 08:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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Great news -- it sounds like you have already installed the kit, right?
I am a little hazy on one item -- I thought that if a wire is too small, it would have too much resistance. A thicker wire has less resistance, I think. So maybe the problem is that the original wires were too thin?
Hopefully, someone who knows more about electricity will set me straight.
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06-07-2016, 11:49 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Calif./Hi.
Posts: 30
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Oh really?..... Show's you how much I know........(Maybe that explains why I keep blowing things up around here.) All I know is that the "Kit" has smaller diameter wires then were on there, and the wee beast seems very happy now. Maybe the molecular structure of the wire is different?
__________________
2005 4Runner
2004 FF16
Old Guy and DW, who love wandering the West! (well, I do anyway).
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06-07-2016, 09:21 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Calif./Hi.
Posts: 30
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Asked my Cal Tech EE graduate SIL about it and he says smaller wire = less resistance. HH (of course he blows stuff up too, but usually with him it's intentional) (sometimes not though) :0
__________________
2005 4Runner
2004 FF16
Old Guy and DW, who love wandering the West! (well, I do anyway).
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06-07-2016, 09:45 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,142
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Interesting. Just for laughs, ask him why the filaments in old incandescent lamps were thin wires, not thick. I think it is because the thin wires had more resistance and heated up and glowed??
But I could be so very wrong. This is a classic example of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. And this is why I never do my own electrical work -- my ignorance can be deadly.
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06-08-2016, 08:40 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3,106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profdant139
Interesting. Just for laughs, ask him why the filaments in old incandescent lamps were thin wires, not thick. I think it is because the thin wires had more resistance and heated up and glowed??
But I could be so very wrong. This is a classic example of a little knowledge being a dangerous thing. And this is why I never do my own electrical work -- my ignorance can be deadly.
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I'm no electrical engineer either but the little wires in my toaster are thin and heat glowing red hot. I think it has to do with the 'type' of wire used to generate more or less resistance. Copper is a 'low resistance' type of wire ??
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2012 Fun Finder XT 276 Toy Hauler & Harley Davidson Ultra Classic with Condor wheel chock
2014 Dodge Ram 2500 AT 4X4 Crew Cab 6.4 L Hemi, 373 gears, tow package, Rambox option, Revolver X2 tonneau cover, Equal-I-zer anti-sway hitch.
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06-08-2016, 04:14 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Olympia, Washington
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haole Hiker
So ever since I got my used FF16 I've had trouble keeping the Fridge lighted. This Fridge is powered by Battery, Propane and AC Electric. Worked fine on AC. marginally on DC but would not stay lit on propane. I thought I traced it to the Interrupter and got a new one but that didn't fix it. Finally I just bypassed the Interrupter and ran it that way for ever but that also bypasses the little meter that tells you there is a Flame. Last week I decided I'm going to Google this thing until I find a cure, and I did! Turns out Norcold had "to big of wires" going to the interrupter with to much resistance so the millivolts were not getting through to tell the Interrupter that the beast was on. Turns out Norcold put out a "kit" to fix this. It's part#628119, came out in 2005 and you can buy it on Amazon for $10. It consists of to color coded smaller wires to replace the bigger ones. Comes with very easy to follow instructions. IT WORKS! Who would of thunk it?
I wonder if it will now stay lit while I'm driving down the road naw that couldn't possibly happen. Maybe though. Life does keep getting better and better. HH
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Glad to hear you found the solution! Something to consider if driving while refer is running on propane. If you pull into a gas station gas fumes could enter exterior refer vent panel and find a lit flame. I was blissfully ignorant of that possibility until it came up here on the forum a while back. Now I'm wiser and more careful. Thanks for the update on your Norcold ( my FF happens to have a Dometic) Happy Camping!
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DOH! (couldn't think of anything clever, profound, or witty)
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