I replied saying that I fixed by reinstalling thermocouple but a couple days later I realized it wasn't fixed. Here's a more detailed summary...
On Norcold model N300 fridge, the thermocouple wouldn't keep the pilot lit. First suspect, as always, was the thermocouple. Looked at the thermocouple through the back of the unit and noticed it was not correctly threaded into the interrupter. The threaded inlet on the interruptor wasn't deep enough to fully engage the threads of the thermocouple fitting. I purchased the new thermocouple and attempted to install and wound up with same problem - fitting wouldn't thread properly into the interrupter. I could only just barely catch the first thread of the thermocouple fitting with the threads in the interrupter. Fitting was inserted as far as it would go down into the interrupter inlet. Hooked it up best I could but in another day the fridge was out again. Needless to say, problem not solved by new thermocouple. Began to suspect someone had used the wrong interrupter at install or previous repair time (I bought the trailer used). OK. More research. Ahhhh...apparently there were several fridges manufactured by Norcold using wire connectors on the selector wires that were made of material with with too high resistance factor to be able efficiently carry the few milliamperes generated by the thermocouple through the valve control system. To fix this, Norcold did a recall and created a replacement wiring harness that consists of just two wires (red and blue) and their connectors. Assume made from proper materials this time...
For details see Norcold Service Bulletin N300 LP Mode Troubleshooting TNCSTP 081804
Here:
http://comet.ak.planet.gen.nz/~matel...tin_081804.pdf
I ordered the wires off Amazon with their connectors along with a new interruptor (Norcold Inc. Refrigerators 621737 Thermocouple Interrupter) and it all installed easily, the previously purchased thermocouple threaded right into the new interrupter, and the fridge now works fine. By the way - depending on your particular circumstances, you may not have to take the whole fridge out of the cabinet like it says to in the troubleshooting pdf in order to replace the wires. I was able to get my arms past the cooling fins on the backside and work it from the outside access on the trailer. It helped me to wear long sleeves as I pushed my arms up and over the cooling fins - the corners are scratchy. Also, when you replace the interrupter, be careful when you use your pliers to pull off the connector going to the flame meter. That wire is tiny gauge and you don't want to give the connector too hard of a pull and end up yanking the wire out of the meter when it finally lets go. I think I came close on mine,
In the end I can't know if it was the thermocouple or the interrupter or the wires and connectors, but replacing all three components has, so far, solved the problem. We took it on a three day jaunt right after installation and it worked fine the whole time.
Norcold refridgerator problem
Linear Mode
