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Old 04-30-2022, 05:45 PM   #1
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Default Replacing entire roof

Hi all. New here. I was wondering if anyone has replaced the entire roof on one of these. Including aluminum framing.

I just bought a 2007 x160. All of the trailer is in decent condition except the entire roof is mostly gone. The rubber membrane is there, but the Luan boards top and bottom and all Styrofoam is gone, plus most of the framing is corroded and broken. The aluminum sill plate looks pretty good, but the whole roof is less than 1 1/2 inches thick.

Only paid $600 for it, so its a worthy project. I am just not sure where to start with getting framing replacement supplies. If anyone has done anything like this, please pm me.
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Old 04-30-2022, 07:11 PM   #2
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So the interior ceiling has been removed showing only the wood roof sheeting?
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Old 04-30-2022, 08:54 PM   #3
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So the interior ceiling has been removed showing only the wood roof sheeting?
No. Just a rubber membrane. No wood at all. Also most of the metal frame is corroded away.

So it needs an entire new roof including framework.
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Old 04-30-2022, 09:32 PM   #4
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If it were me, I would have aluminum or wood trusses made and literally rebuild the roof from scratch. Probably will never find original truss replacements.
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Old 05-01-2022, 09:20 AM   #5
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If the roof has been essentially missing, watch out for rot inside the walls??

Do you have the equipment to weld aluminum?
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Old 05-01-2022, 08:34 PM   #6
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If the roof has been essentially missing, watch out for rot inside the walls??

Do you have the equipment to weld aluminum?
Aside from the front wall that will need some work, the rest of the walls are solid and good.

I talked to my brother in law about welding aluminum and it doesn't sound like an option at this point. I was hoping to find aluminum fittings that don't require welding, or go with wood. I was wondering about increasing the height of the roof to have more options for materials. Keeping the roof just 1" thick is very limiting. I also want to add 2 vents and a bigger skylight in the so called bathroom.
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Old 05-02-2022, 09:46 AM   #7
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You must have a flat roof. If you are rebuilding it, think about making arched trusses so that water will run off easier. I think on my 2010 189FBR, the roof center is about 4-5 inches above the ceiling. Making wooden trusses would be fairly easy. One way is to make a slightly curved form and epoxy many thin plywood layers over it. Once cured, use a bandsaw to cut individual trusses. Good luck.
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Old 05-02-2022, 10:07 AM   #8
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You must have a flat roof. If you are rebuilding it, think about making arched trusses so that water will run off easier. I think on my 2010 189FBR, the roof center is about 4-5 inches above the ceiling. Making wooden trusses would be fairly easy. One way is to make a slightly curved form and epoxy many thin plywood layers over it. Once cured, use a bandsaw to cut individual trusses. Good luck.
That sounds like a good idea to consider. I could also cut curves trusses from 2x6's. The extra room would also give space for fiberglass insulation which has a higher R rating than Styrofoam. Also, I wouldn't have to run my wiring through the aluminum tubing.
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Old 05-02-2022, 04:39 PM   #9
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With only $600 invested so far ��. I believe rebuilding the entire roof is a worthy investment. The suggestion of doing an “arched roof” is definitely valid. Will reinstalling the A/C unit be part of the plan?
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Old 05-02-2022, 07:10 PM   #10
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I don't know what the layout is but instead of mounting the AC on the roof, I would see if a room AC unit could be mounted on a wall shelf. Wall units are quieter than roof units and there is less weight and drag.
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Old 05-02-2022, 08:31 PM   #11
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[QUOTE=Will reinstalling the A/C unit be part of the plan?[/QUOTE]

I thought about it, but it seems to me that 13.5k btus is a lot for maybe 70 square feet. Anything smaller in a rooftop is way expensive. There is a really big cabinet next to the bathroom. I was thinking about putting a vent in the roof like for the refrigerator and putting some ductwork in the closet and putting a portable ac in there. You could open up the door while it was on. Cost is $100 - $300. Some also double as a heater, so backup heat source. I would Aldo like a vent in the middle (typical crank open, maybe a super fan)
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Old 05-03-2022, 01:01 PM   #12
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I bet a 10K BTU AC would cool it down just fine, especially since these trailers are so well insulated. Rarely do I use the roof top AC because of the noise, so if mine ever goes to pot, I will replace it with one on the TV shelf on the back wall.
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Old 05-08-2022, 12:50 PM   #13
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That sounds like a good idea to consider. I could also cut curves trusses from 2x6's. The extra room would also give space for fiberglass insulation which has a higher R rating than Styrofoam. Also, I wouldn't have to run my wiring through the aluminum tubing.
Yes. Use treated 2x6's, cut them as tapered-end arches - 1-1/2" ends to maybe 2-1/2" at center. Make sure you get the fewest knots possible, or at least knots that fall outside your arch outline. And here's an outside-the-box idea for you: Get a 120v, 6000btu mini split heat pump. That would give you quiet A/C and heat. I've seen them for under $600. And you don't have to be a rocket scientist to install it. (Alright, stop your laughin' guys)
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Old 05-08-2022, 03:39 PM   #14
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FWIW, I replaced my entire roof. 1 1/2 inch fir framing in 4 foot sections, 3/8 inch plywood on top, ceiling panels on the bottom and insulation between. Glued everything together. After it was all in place, I ran a 2 foot wide piece of plywood up the middle of the roof to give it a bit of arch. Then I skinned the whole thing in aluminum sheet. 3 years later, no leaks or other problems!
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