Solar panel install

seattlegolfer41 · 07-27-2020, 12:13 PM

Hello everyone, been a while since I've been here. I just bought a 200 watt solar panel and am considering mounting it on the roof of my 2012 210UDS. I have watched a ton of videos on You Tube and still can't seem to get clarification on where to. It looks like people just drill anywhere and aren't trying to hit studs. Does the roof have plywood that I can screw into anywhere, or does it have to be just the studs, nobody ever really mentions that.

Thanks in advance
Mike

Xerofall · 07-27-2020, 12:43 PM

Thanks for posting this, I too am going to install a set of panels on my roof and need to know as well.

I'd imagine you'd need to find a stud, but I do not know how the roofs on these guys are constructed.

seattlegolfer41 · 07-27-2020, 01:28 PM

Kind of funny, as many of videos on You Tube regarding the install no one ever mentions it. It sure looks to me that they just drill away. So I'm thinking there's plywood their hitting with the screws.

Xerofall · 07-27-2020, 09:08 PM

One video guy I follow uses roofing screws and E6000 adhesive. He screws on hat channel, then the panels on that.

I'm just scared to drill the hat channel onto the roof.

APD · 07-28-2020, 07:14 AM

I've wondered why they're never mounted to the side wall. Hinges at the top near the roof railing would allow the panels to be raised up level with the roof to catch the sun while camped. Be easy to clean and protect folded against the side for travel. And no holes in the roof. Easy to remove later as well.
Just a thought....

runner421 · 07-28-2020, 06:02 PM

2012UDS - I started with the flexible adhesive mounted solar "panels". Reinforced with a roofing screw with large washer. Big blobs of Dicor self-leveling caulking. Never had a problem yet. Added the PV panel using same fasteners and "L" brackets. Ran the wiring down the roof mounted antenna opening. Pulled the microwave and mounted the distribution block behind the microwave. Pulled the wires down under the stove/oven and put the solar charger under the drawers, left of the sink. Inverter and batteries in the pass-thru cubby.

seattlegolfer41 · 07-28-2020, 08:37 PM

Wow, you have the exact same trailer, year and everything. Nice set up, especially like the batteries. I'm getting a 200 watt panel and was thinking of running the wires exactly where you did, down to where the tv antenna is. Did you run the wire down in the cabinet where the tv is? I'm assuming you have the pull out tv? Will that be easy to run the wires with minimal stuff in the way? I just want to get straight through the flooring and then run the wire underneath to the pass through storage where I'll mount the charge controller end then back out to my batteries outside behind the propane tanks. This is awesome. Do you know what or how thick the wood is on the roof? Any aditional tips you can give me I'll buy you a beer lol. I hope to drill into an aluminium roof truss and put a couple brackets on the leading edge/front of the panel then a couple more elswhere. did you drill into the roof?

Thanks alot....Mike

runner421 · 07-28-2020, 09:04 PM

We bought our camper new in 2012. First thing we did is remove the TV and increase the size of the pantry. But, to answer your questions. Yes-i ran the wiring down the inside of the cabinet, left side is a trim piece that covers the sewer vent pipe that runs to the roof. Just removed the trim piece, ran the wires all the way down and then reached under/behind the oven to get the wires and pull them to where I mounted the charge controller. Going straight down the cabinet and through the floor and you'll have to deal with the gray or black water tanks. That's something to think about. Originally had 4 deep cycle batteries in an 8D box mounted behind the propane tanks. Pulling wires under the camper involves removing the corrugated plastic to route wires to the front. Good luck with positioning the panel and/or finding a support (truss) to anchor in to. Not sure how thick the roofing is, but I used 3/4 or 1 inch screws, not sure on size, pre-drilled the holes and filled the hole with silicon before tightening the screws. When it was all done, added the Dicor.

Xerofall · 07-29-2020, 08:07 AM

I wish I had that roof space! Haha

mjpguy · 08-02-2020, 01:08 PM

seattlegolfer, We also have a 210UDS but ours is the "F" 210 UDS not the "X" 210 UDS. So i'm not sure if both these models have the same roof construction. My roof is totally walkable. Anyway, I also wondered about the "studs" (if any) in the roof. All I know is, when I pulled the inside trim off the vents to replace the vent covers, all I saw was 3-4 inches of foam and a very thin layer of plywood, maybe 3/16" max . But I think that thin plywood would hold screws.

seattlegolfer41 · 08-02-2020, 08:33 PM

I think from what I've seen it's thin. Runner421 has the exact trailer and he used 3/4" or 1" screws and he's had no problems. I can also walk on my roof it's solid. I called Cruiser RV and they weren't much help on the thickness. He told me a 11/4" ruff truss go across every 48" not sure that will help. Wondering if I shouldn't throw in a couple lag bolts with the screws, just a thought.

runner421 · 08-06-2020, 06:19 PM

I decided to drill through the roof and come through in the space behind my microwave. There's ample space back there to put the junction block you saw in one of my pictures. From the junction box we went through the thin wall in to the TV cabinet/pantry. We went up against the exterior wall so we'd come in right next to the sewer pipe chase/run. Tip - cut the roof liner before you drill. This will prevent the rubber roof from twisting around the drill bit and tearing. Use lots of Dicor self-leveling caulking.