Water pump issues - help

Mooreagreen · 04-29-2013, 08:19 PM

Just took our maiden voyage on our new 2013 Shadow Cruiser 280QBS. I filled the fresh water tank and flushed the anti-freeze then cosed the bypass valve.

After flushing the system The water seemed fine but would still sputter when first turned on...as the tank got to 1/3 the sputtering was atrocious. Water would flow and spit out between the blasts of air. When I emptied the fresh tank it took about 10 minutes so I assume I had about 7-10 gallons left.

I checked the in-line screen filter and it is fine. Hot and cold valves both open and bypass closed. Low point drains both capped.

Any ideas?

FFX160_CT · 04-30-2013, 03:32 AM

I'm having the same issues myself after going out this past weekend--my first trip of the year. Here's a helpful link: I'll be troubleshooting this weekend. Good luck! http://www.ehow.com/how_6901492_trou...ter-pumps.html

shadow · 04-30-2013, 01:33 PM

I had that happen on mine.
I just open all valves and let run, close and let it pressurize continue through about 35 gallons, sometimes air will get trapped in the hot water tank and other high spots. Don't forget to sanitize your system after you run antifreeze out

Mooreagreen · 04-30-2013, 06:10 PM

Thanks for the speedy response. Really pleased with the initial quality of this unit.....

profdant139 · 04-30-2013, 06:53 PM

I don’t think this is the water pump’s fault – the tank may be tilted the wrong way, so that the outlet is not at the low point. When I showed my dealer that I was getting only 20 gal out of my 30 gal tank, they moved the outlet to the very bottom. I also installed a spacer (a 2x2 piece of lumber) under the forward lip of the water tank, between the plastic lip and the steel ctrossbar that supports the tank, in order to tilt the tank up a little (thus causing the water to run toward the low point). It is very easy to lift the tank when it is empty. Then I installed screw clamps to hold the lip of the tank tightly to the steel cross bar, thus sandwiching the 2x2 into place

As a result, the tank slopes gently down toward the drain point in the back of the tank, and I get full drainage of the whole 30 gallons. It’s an easy project, if you don't mind laying on your back under the trailer for a while. It is too bad the trailer manufacturers don't pre-arrange for proper drainage, but apparently this is a common problem.

While I was under there, I also installed heavy duty plumbing pipe straps across the bottoms of my fresh, gray, and black tanks, using self tapping sheet metal screws into frame members. (I drilled small pilot holes for the screws.) I installed the straps while the tanks were empty -- when they are full, the tanks push against the straps, which provide extra support. When the tanks are empty, the straps are still snug but not as tight. These straps are the sorts of things that you use to anchor a water heater to the wall, for earthquake safety – any plumbing store has them.

I hope this helps!

Mooreagreen · 04-30-2013, 09:14 PM

Profdant - did yours sputter and spit air when you had spent 20 gallons?

profdant139 · 05-02-2013, 09:24 AM

Yep, my pump sputtered when it ran out of water -- there was still 10 gallons in there, but the low point of the tank was below the pickup for the pump, so it could not reach the rest of the water. That is why I had my dealer relocate the pickup to the low point, and then I tilted the tank slightly to pool the water at that point. Problem solved.

FFX160_CT · 05-06-2013, 03:53 AM

OK, I can't solve the problem with my pump. I checked all the connections, and while I tightened a few water connections, the pump seems to be vibrating too much. I did check and confirm that the footings were solidly connected also. I did notice that I can lift the pump (which is poorly placed) even though the pump is securely connected to the baseboard with screws. I can't get at the adjuster screw to adjust for pressure (i.e. the automatic shut-off) so I'm not even sure if there is one. The problem seems to be worse with the hot water running. I did open the hot water line to ensure that there was no air in the lines.

I've had this trailer for 5 years, and it's worked just fine all along the way, so I don't think it's the angle of the tank.

There is one valve which is seemingly closed (i.e. not parallel to the water line), but I tested the problem with it opened and closed, and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

FFX160_CT · 05-06-2013, 03:56 AM

Oh, and the lousy, generic diagram that came with my camper indicates that there is an in-line filter, but I either can't get at it, or the picture doesn't apply to my pump.

profdant139 · 05-06-2013, 09:06 AM

If the problem is just vibration, that is fairly normal for most pumps -- I added an accumulator by Shurflo and it solved the problem.

But if the pump is really sputtering and is not drawing out all of the water in your tank, and if the pump used to work fine with your current tank setup, then it sounds like you might need a new pump.