What Batteries Do you Use ?

[kmeindin]

I would change them at home first but I want to be able to hook up my solar panel and keep them changed when I am camping and not hooked up to power. And change them when I am driving.

[JimboFunFinder]

Originally Posted by kmeindin

I would change them at home first but I want to be able to hook up my solar panel and keep them changed when I am camping and not hooked up to power. And change them when I am driving.

That sounds like a good strategy. Your truck's alternator/battery will help it while driving to not get discharged and charge it part way but the alternator is set up to charge a maintenance free/wet cell battery and not an AGM/Deep Cycle. Due to voltage drops in the wiring from the truck's engine it is difficult to ever get an RV battery fully charged but it helps to maintain it.

If all of your portable panels are similar in voltage and current output, you should be able to get by with one solar controller to charge the battery. However, if the panels have different characteristics you may be forced to use two controllers. The most efficient controllers are rated for MPPT operation which means they automatically keep the panel at the voltage that provides the highest output power (power equals voltage times current). There is always an ongoing discussion whether it is better to put multiple panels in series or in parallel. One strong reason for a series connection is that the wire size running to the panels can be much smaller. New controllers often can accept 50-75V or higher input which allows having the panels in series.

Have fun!

[runner421]

In the simplest solar installation, you need a solar panel, the wiring, and a charge controller. This simply charges the battery during hours of sunlight exposure. I have an advanced system on my camper, but, installed a simple setup on my dad's truck bed camper. We mounted a 215Watt solar panel on the roof. Ran the wiring to the batteries (we added a second Interstate deep cycle RV battery.) In the battery compartment, we put a simple Victron SmartSolar Charge Controller with Built-in Bluetooth – MPPT 75/15 – 75 Volts, 15 Amps ($120/Amazon).

[kmeindin]

I want to install eventually a fairly simple solar system on the roof. Maybe two flexible 100 watt solar panels and a charge controller. I am still looking around at options. But I need to get my trailer first (storage for winter) so I can figure out where to run wires etc. I will look into that charge controller.

[runner421]

Running wire from the panels to the charge controller depend on where you locate it. Common places to run wiring are down the same "chase" as the refrigerator vent or my favorite is along the sewer pipe vent. But then you'd have to mount the charge controller behind drawers? and then the wires from the controller to the battery, down through the floor and under the camper. Keep thinking and asking questions.

[kmeindin]

The refrigerator is in the slide near the front of the trailer so I am not sure if that is a option. I think it must be just vented out the wall. Also the underbelly is enclosed on this trailer. I am just guessing right now until I get the trailer at my house or shop.

[runner421]

Good observation. I just looked over your camper's pictures. Might involve looking on the roof for what's up there and where the factory roof openings are. Keep us informed and we'll help as much as possible.

[kmeindin]

thank you !!

[RipVan]

Wondering why no one has specifically mentioned it BUT generally speaking, batteries connected in series, doubles voltage and maintains (+/-) amperage while batteries connected in a parallel fashion maintains the voltage and doubles the amperage.

[gator]

Originally Posted by RipVan

Wondering why no one has specifically mentioned it BUT generally speaking, batteries connected in series, doubles voltage and maintains (+/-) amperage while batteries connected in a parallel fashion maintains the voltage and doubles the amperage.

Sort of how it works in the world of electricity. That's why a lot of older RVers preferred to used 6Volt batteries from golf carts. But now with the newer batteries this has fallen off.

[kmeindin]

Two 6V batteries hooked together gives more amp hours, more capacity.

[twinster2]

Everstart Maxx 29DC from Walmart for $99.

[kmeindin]

I was thinking of ordering two of these Rolls Batteries, 6V - 230 AH premium deep cycle.

[gator]

I run these:
https://www.bestconverter.com/GPL-31...AGM_p_593.html

2 of these batteries gives you 250 AH. Why bother with 6volt ones. The AGM batteries can be kept inside as well as their of gassing is next to non-existent as long as you charge them correctly. Plus no maintenance. The last set I replaced after 9 years and one is still going in my workshop 14 years later. The newish ones are now 5 years old. They are in the trailer all year, never removed. The batteries are never charged via shore power, but purely by solar. Even at -20 they work great and will charge fine. It has been -10 these past few days, but the snow is gone and they are charged at 100%. The other thing about Lifeline batteries is that you can equalize them. Mine are equalized automatically by the solar charge controller. I run 300 watts with 4 batteries on a simple PWM charger. The trailer hasn't been plugged into shore power to charge those batteries in the last 5 years. Boondocking is what I prefer. And in the summer it handles all the loads that I need. I run 3 powerful fans fridge(control), water pump and stereo as well as charge laptops and phones as well as all the lighting. The trimetric battery monitor lets me keep track of the charging as well as the usage. Most of my camping is done in partial shade or filtered light campsites so charging is never in perfect conditions. But usually by the end of the day it is back to 100%. Some days when it is heavily overcast and rainy it may not charge to 100%. Hence the 4 batteries. But so far under these conditions the lowest it has gone to is 84%.

Btw. I work designing batteries for EVs. We've worked on batteries for most of the EVs out there (other than from Asia). Personally I'm waiting for lithium technology to improve and to stabilize before I jump on the lithium bandwagon for RVs. If you need it it's another thing, but I can make do without them. So I'm waiting. Don't forget that with lithium you need plus temperatures to charge them or you need to heat them. BB does say you can charge the batteries and then store them up to a certain temperature, which you may encroach in Edmonton.

Good luck with your decision.

[gator]

Originally Posted by kmeindin

Two 6V batteries hooked together gives more amp hours, more capacity.

2 batteries in series doubles the voltage, but the amperage stays the same. Parallel batteries will increase the capacity. Series will increase the voltage only.

[kmeindin]

I would love t have a solar system and 4 batteries. But how much does that cost ? $374.00 US per battery plus solar system. So $1500.00 US in batteries. How much installed for the solar system $2,000.00 US ??? So $3500.00 to $4,000.00 US ?


The lead acid Rolls 6V 230 AH would cost me $260.00 Canadian each. They make 250 AH as well. I have a portable solar panel for now. while I learn about installing a more permanent roof mounted solar system. I have to find a solar system that is affordable. I don't really want to drill holes in the roof unless I have to. There are some flexible panels available that might work.

I am not sure how many 100 watt panels I would need ?

[gator]

Originally Posted by kmeindin

I would love t have a solar system and 4 batteries. But how much does that cost ? $374.00 US per battery plus solar system. So $1500.00 US in batteries. How much installed for the solar system $2,000.00 US ??? So $3500.00 to $4,000.00 US ?


The lead acid Rolls 6V 230 AH would cost me $260.00 Canadian each. They make 250 AH as well. I have a portable solar panel for now. while I learn about installing a more permanent roof mounted solar system. I have to find a solar system that is affordable. I don't really want to drill holes in the roof unless I have to. There are some flexible panels available that might work.

I am not sure how many 100 watt panels I would need ?

The panels are about $250-300 each. The batteries yes they are expensive, but worth every penny. They were the bulk of the cost. My cost at the time was around $320 USD (I had them shipped to my hotel in the US). The charge controller was around $200 and the battery monitor about the same. The wire and ends were not cheap, but since the batteries are all roughly in the same location I didn't need much. I ran #4 cable to the roof. Welding cable (princess auto) is cheaper than most and there are sites that will provide everything else. I made my own combiner box with what was available locally. The box came from HD and the rest of the items from a surplus store. I did purchase a proper crimper on Amazon. In total I have about $2500 CDN invested. The panels I made my own mounts by just using an aluminum angle bracket from HD and cutting it into 4" sections. The brackets are held to the roof with double sided tape from 3M (may not work on a non-metal roof) and then sealed with Sikaflex 221.

Avoid flex panels as they cannot dissipate the heat. Solar cells need to be cooler to run efficiently. And the way they do this is by circulating air around the panel. It is important to have that air space under the panel. I spent many years working with solar panels. We used to own 2 solar factories, one here in Canada and the other in Europe. We also set up many solar factories around the world. Working with amorphous and Crystalline.

https://www.strathcon.com/dc-electri...gory-list.aspx

HES-100-36PV Solar Panel 100W - We Go Solar Canada

[JimboFunFinder]

Originally Posted by gator

I run these:
https://www.bestconverter.com/GPL-31...AGM_p_593.html

Btw. I work designing batteries for EVs. We've worked on batteries for most of the EVs out there (other than from Asia). Personally I'm waiting for lithium technology to improve and to stabilize before I jump on the lithium bandwagon for RVs. If you need it it's another thing, but I can make do without them. So I'm waiting. Don't forget that with lithium you need plus temperatures to charge them or you need to heat them. BB does say you can charge the batteries and then store them up to a certain temperature, which you may encroach in Edmonton.

Good luck with your decision.

As an ex-engineer I look at carefully at cost/benefit and agree with gator. Lithium batteries currently carry a hefty premium price and AGMs are tried and true. With the cost savings you can afford to replace them every 5 years if you need to, which I doubt you will.

[kmeindin]

Originally Posted by gator

The panels are about $250-300 each. The batteries yes they are expensive, but worth every penny. They were the bulk of the cost. My cost at the time was around $320 USD (I had them shipped to my hotel in the US). The charge controller was around $200 and the battery monitor about the same. The wire and ends were not cheap, but since the batteries are all roughly in the same location I didn't need much. I ran #4 cable to the roof. Welding cable (princess auto) is cheaper than most and there are sites that will provide everything else. I made my own combiner box with what was available locally. The box came from HD and the rest of the items from a surplus store. I did purchase a proper crimper on Amazon. In total I have about $2500 CDN invested. The panels I made my own mounts by just using an aluminum angle bracket from HD and cutting it into 4" sections. The brackets are held to the roof with double sided tape from 3M (may not work on a non-metal roof) and then sealed with Sikaflex 221.

Avoid flex panels as they cannot dissipate the heat. Solar cells need to be cooler to run efficiently. And the way they do this is by circulating air around the panel. It is important to have that air space under the panel. I spent many years working with solar panels. We used to own 2 solar factories, one here in Canada and the other in Europe. We also set up many solar factories around the world. Working with amorphous and Crystalline.

https://www.strathcon.com/dc-electri...gory-list.aspx

HES-100-36PV Solar Panel 100W - We Go Solar Canada

Thank you Gator !!! Who knows I will keep learning about it. Maybe one day I will install my own system.

[Xerofall]

I added solar panels I got from my dad, they are the Harbor Freight ones. There are lighter, better ones out there... but I had these in hand. I work with what I have.

I currently have a single 12v battery from the dealership. It's okay if you do shore power in addition, but for boondocking, it's not the best. The amp capacity isn't all that great, I think it's like 160 or something silly.

I've researched a few 12v and 6v batteries and I've decided to do two 6v with 225 amp hours. There was a big 12v with 200 ah, but that would require a custom battery box because it's slightly larger than most. It's more suited for the larger RVs with slideout battery compartments. I don't really want to do dual 12v at this time.

The two 6V will provide a little more amp hours and I can buy a special side by side battery box designed for two 6v batteries that will be a direct replacement for my current setup. It's all a little less expensive too.

There's pros and cons and fans of each type, but I've decided the dual 6v will be best for me right now.

I've attached a simple diagram I use to keep things clear for me. Hope it helps.