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Old 07-07-2016, 06:59 PM   #21
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I know I don't have any battery disconnect up by the actual battery. Could there be one near the power converter? I guess I can poke around when I get home, but I don't recall any disconnect.
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:01 PM   #22
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On the 189FBR it was in the underneath storage. In the 214WSD it's inside.
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:03 PM   #23
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I tried to make a post with some pictures but I don't think it worked. Either that or I posted a random post in another thread, lol. At any rate, I want to install a couple of usb ports from a 12v DC source so I can charge phones when I'm not connected to shore power. On the X160, the stereo/dvd unit has empty space to the right of it with a plain wood panel. Looks like I could easily mount something there. Anyone have any tips on how to access this area. The only way in, it appears to me, is to remove the stereo as there is no access on any other wall or underneath. Anyone know how to dismount or remove the stereo??
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Old 07-07-2016, 09:14 PM   #24
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If you don't have or can't find a battery disconnect switch, you can always pull the main battery 'in line' fuse that should be in a holder not far from the battery on the positive wire from the battery.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:06 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal View Post
I tried to make a post with some pictures but I don't think it worked. Either that or I posted a random post in another thread, lol. At any rate, I want to install a couple of usb ports from a 12v DC source so I can charge phones when I'm not connected to shore power. On the X160, the stereo/dvd unit has empty space to the right of it with a plain wood panel. Looks like I could easily mount something there. Anyone have any tips on how to access this area. The only way in, it appears to me, is to remove the stereo as there is no access on any other wall or underneath. Anyone know how to dismount or remove the stereo??
Most likely the stereo system has a trim panel on it that hides the mounting screws. Once you get the trim off it should be easy to remove it.
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Old 07-18-2016, 08:55 PM   #26
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Well I am back to being confused...

So I bought a new battery as the old one was toast. Hooked it up and check that I had 12.7v. Because it was a new battery, I thought I would test a few days with nothing on. I didn't remove the main fuse or switch to off, just didn't run anything but whatever runs by default and occasional lights and what have you. Mind you it's sitting in my driveway so we're not camping or using it. Anyway some 8-9 days later I got the meter out and it showed 12.36 on the battery.

Then I plugged to shore power, confirmed the air and micro were powered so I thought great. I turned the fridge on but left the propane tank shut. Left it like that for another 3 days or so and went to see if it was fully charged. Unplugged shore power and on the battery it read 12.21v What the heck. So I plugged shore power in and checked, 12.21 again. Unplugged shore power and plugged a 2A battery charger into the very same extension cord, then connected the charger to the battery and it read 12.36. Then I pulled the main fuse at the battery and checked again and it's 12.42.

Any of you old pros have any idea what the heck is going on with my setup??
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:45 PM   #27
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Do you have a three way fridge or a two way? In other words, will it run off battery/propane/shore power, or just the latter two? I greatly prefer a two way -- a three way will drain the battery.

My guess is that the converter is not charging your battery. Here is how to test that -- turn off the fridge. Leave the battery on the trailer, and the trailer hooked up to shore power. The battery should stay fully charged. Check it every day. If it is dwindling a little every day (due to the parasitic draw of the propane and CO detector), that is not right.

Are you sure your battery disconnect is in the proper position? It has to be pulled OUT -- otherwise, the battery is disconnected and not charging.

When you install the battery, and test the voltage, it should read about 13.5 on shore power. If not, and if the disconnect is not disconnected, there is something wrong with the converter. They are not that expensive to replace. But first go through these diagnostic steps.

Hang in there, and let us know how it is going.

PS -- it took me years of trial and error to figure all of this out. Don't make that mistake -- just ask questions sooner rather than later.
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Old 07-18-2016, 10:13 PM   #28
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IN my unit with an Optima deep cycle 12 volt battery, the volt meter reads 13.7 when plugged into shore power.

The meter is wired in and mounted in the camper.

Here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-LED-Wate...sAAOSwLVZV4E7L
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:47 PM   #29
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You guys n gals are awesome. Thanks for all the tips. I will check it out in the morning and report back.

your pal,
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:06 AM   #30
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Quote:
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You guys n gals are awesome. Thanks for all the tips. I will check it out in the morning and report back.

your pal,
SoCal Noob
Back to looking for ways to get USB power from 12v while boondocking. I would just buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d_i=B003Q54V88

Or anything similar, there are many variations, all around $10 and plug it in to the 12v lighter socket thats inside the cupboard above your TV.

Probably looks something like this:
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:55 AM   #31
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Back to looking for ways to get USB power from 12v while boondocking. I would just buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d_i=B003Q54V88

Or anything similar, there are many variations, all around $10 and plug it in to the 12v lighter socket thats inside the cupboard above your TV.

Probably looks something like this:
My unit came with one of those TV plates w/12 volt receptical but removal was required to install the King/Jack antenna.

I missed the 12 volt socket to charge my cell phone so purchased/installed a 12 volt socket/digital voltage meter combo....killed two birds with one stone as they say.
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Old 07-26-2016, 09:43 PM   #32
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OK so here is a post San Elijo update...

I traced the power from the battery to a box in the front right bench of the dinette and there is no pull out cylinder just a black box with cables in and out. So I am comfortable stating we have no battery disconnect in our 2006 x160.

We really don't use much power camping, just the overhead LED lights periodically. I charged the battery on an external 2A deep cell charger with trickle for a couple days, let it sit overnight after charged and measured 13.something when I was headed out. I still don't understand how a battery can measure 13.something after several hours of no charging...but that's what it read. Camped for 4 days and really didn't use the lights much and upon my return 12.74v. Connected shore power and let sit overnight. Today, 12.68.

Because the lights and stereo work dry camping and then when I plug in the shore, I have AC and Micro....yet I have never been able to get the battery to charge or show 13.something while connected to shore...I think the converter is out. Unless there is a fuse?

Second item...the refer works splendidly connected to shore. It is a two way refer so only gas and AC. Tried to get the thing to ignite using gas and no go. Like 10 times no go. Inside of the fridge says it could be air in the gas line. Anyone have any experience bleeding a fridge line?

TIA as always...SoCal Noob
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Old 07-27-2016, 09:13 AM   #33
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The easiest way to purge the gas line is to light a burner on the stove and let it run for a few minutes.

A few other possibilities: Check the burner to make sure it's not clogged, sometimes bugs will get in there. If that's clean, you might not have enough gas pressure. As the gas regulators get older sometimes the pressure will get reduced and if the fridge doesn't see sufficient gas pressure the burner won't light. Any problems with your water heater on gas? If so I'd suspect low gas pressure. The regulators can be adjusted, most RV repair shops should be able to do it.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:52 PM   #34
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Hello all, another noob update. So after some reflection I realized a definitive way to test my converter. I pulled the inline fuse off the pos battery terminal to totally remove the battery from the equation. Then I plugged into shore power. Air and microwave running off shore power VAC still had full power. overhead lights and stereo needed DC yet were dead to the world. Alas, power converter has been pronounced dead, time of death 13:27 July 29, 2016. I've secured the plot next to last year's battery and intend to hold services this Saturday. In lieu of flowers, we're asking that donations be made to the funfinderclub forum.

Ordered a new converter from the good folks at amazon and intend to take a page out of the paintyliz playbook and replace.

On the refer front I think I will try to clean out everythimg to see if I can get it flowing. As it stands, both burners work great but I cant get the fridge to start up on gas.

Thanks again everyone...I will post my progress

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Old 07-30-2016, 08:42 AM   #35
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LOL!!
Alas, power converter has been pronounced dead, time of death 13:27 July 29, 2016. I've secured the plot next to last year's battery and intend to hold services this Saturday. In lieu of flowers, we're asking that donations be made to the funfinderclub forum.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:52 AM   #36
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SoCal was it a WFCO converter? If so, now might be the time to upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics converter. The swap is simple and the PI is a much better converter. Check here:
PD4635 35 Amp Converter Upgrade Section
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:59 AM   #37
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This is posted by Paul, Marilyn's husband...

There is a seperate dedicated fuse on the converter board itself. While plugged into shore power, check the voltage at the heavy blue wire (VCC) and the heavy white wire (NEG or ground) on the fuse board (right side of your power center - 12 VDC section), should measure 13.6 +/- VDC. That is the output from the converter to supply the RV with 12 VDC while operating on shore power and to charge the battery.

Also check the voltage at the heavy black wire (POS +) and ground, this should agree the same VDC reading taken directly at the battery termanials! If the voltage is not the same value, you need to trace that heavy black wire completely looking for any type of damage/corrosion that would create a voltage drop. Also check all the automotive blade style fuses for continuity that supply the individual 12 VDC circuits.

It also goes without saying, a full slow charge and full load test of the battery can also reveal difficiencies in the batteries ability to accept a charge and properly distribute the power reserve effectively (AMP over Hours time).
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Old 07-30-2016, 03:30 PM   #38
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LJ Great tip on the upgrade...unfortunately I had already ordered the replacement converter for my WFCO. I guess I will see how long this one lasts and then contemplate upgrades next time around. Thanks tho for planting the seed....why replace when you can upgrade.

MichPaul thanks for the insight. I will test the converter before and after the replacement to confirm it is working properly.
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Old 07-30-2016, 05:39 PM   #39
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Oh, you had said this.....
"I think the converter is out. Unless there is a fuse?"
And yes, there is a fuse as mentioned above.
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:03 PM   #40
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Upon advice from MichPaul, I decided to RTFM...

There is a note in the manual about the converter not converting. This is for a WFCO WF8945. It says to check the "reverse polarity" fuses. These are the two 30A fuses to the left of the full column of fuses. Turns out both my fuses are fine...so I'll go ahead and install the new converter I got. If it helps anyone the part number for this unit's converter is WF-8945-MBA.
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