2022 Tundra E2Hitch Setup

[steiny]

Just took delivery of my 2022 new tundra. After the 500+ mile "break in" period, I expect I will be realigning/readjusting my E2 hitch sway control/wt distribution hitch.

First- I am towing the X189FDS (duel axel)

If anyone has gone through this exercise with this hitch, which holes on the shank did you end up using for the bolt channel. Yes, I could do this myself, but without any great "level" areas to do my measurements, it will be a bit of deal. Any guidance appreciated. Many thanks.

[steiny]

If no guidance is available, I will post update after I complete the setup.

[foakes]

Hi Steiny —

We have a FF 189FBS and the Tow Vehicle is a Tacoma 4X4.

I would guess that our hitch height is about the same as your new Tundra.

When I first towed it from Denver to California after purchasing it used — I installed the EZ Lift insert head i to the (2) lowest holes. At that point, the trailer was still riding slightly “hitch high”. Towed it 1600 miles with no issues.

After returning home, I took it to an independent trailer shop to have the (2) axles moved to underneath the leaf springs — instead of on top.

This gained exactly 4.5” of trailer ground clearance at the axles.

This allowed the trailer to ride perfectly level with the truck.

Yours may be different — but it should be close.

The reason to flip the axles under the springs was to gain extra ground clearance when traveling off road or “boon-docking in rougher areas.

If you wish to measure from the ground to the bottom of your hitch — I would do the same and we could get a closer idea.

Plus, I would take a photo of my hitch insert setup — to see if it is similar to yours.

Insert the bolts, lock washers, and nuts in opposing directions — and tighten them up securely.

Our trailer tows exactly level, perfectly, and securely.

Best Always,

Fred

[RipVan]

Having a level spot to park your 189 to set up your WDH is, of course, the best approach to get the proper hitch height measurements. You might consider taking the rig (using the existing WDH minus the weight transfer bars or even a basic hitch with the proper ball) to a local parking lot that is relatively level. Unhook from your Tundra, level the trailer with the tongue jack and take the hitch height measurement. That should give you the info needed to readjust the “head” of your WDH. Hopefully, you still have the setup instructions that came with your E2 WDH. Keep in mind that since the “head” is raised or lowered in 1 1/4” to perhaps 1 1/2” increments, Swiss watch precision isn’t necessary.
If taking the trailer to a “level” spot isn’t an option, if the current site isn’t level but is consistently flat, use the tongue jack to make the front frame height of the trailer the same as the rear frame height i.e. parallel to the ground. That should give you a relatively accurate hitch height.
As mentioned, doing the “flip axle” mod does increase ground clearance and has been done by many owners. The other advantage (also mentioned) is raising the hitch height. This is helpful if the E2 drop shank doesn’t allow the head to be low enough. This was my situation with my HF WDH but instead of “flipping” the axles, I bought a drop shank with more “drop”. It was less expensive than having a shop do the axle mod BUT does reduce ground clearance beneath the hitch shank. I’m seriously considering the axle flip mod to remedy that situation.

[foakes]

RV is correct on the method —

The only reason that I repositioned the axles under the springs was so that I could gain some extra ground clearance — since most of our trailer camping is “boondocking” off paved roads.

Of course, when taking the trailer to get the axles adjusted to the trailer shop — the passenger rear scissors Jack was ruined when going up a steep concrete approach.

So there are other advantages.

If one is never going to camp off road — it is not necessary to do the axle flip.

I was just pointing out that after the axle flip — the trailer was perfectly level on my particular tow vehicle.

Just got lucky.

Best, Fred

[RipVan]

I don’t know if it’s the case with all older (pre-push outs) trailers but the older CruiserRV / FunFinders seem to me to “ride” a bit lower than most others. This comes at the expense of more of the wheel well coming up into the camper’s interior. The newer ones (with push outs) need a completely flat floor which necessitated raising the frame. For me, the downside is that more steps are needed to get into the camper. Besides having push outs, more road clearance and a higher hitch height are a bonus. I’m thinking that many of the WDHs are designed with a higher hitch height in mind. Pretty easy to work around tho.
I had an issue similar to that of Mr Oakes, when pulling into a parking lot that had a short (but kinda steep) entrance ramp. The rear of the trailer dropped and bent the heck out of the “wheelie bars” ! I’m very aware of that situation now!

[steiny]

Thank you Foakes- I had a 2005 TACO which is the truck the EZ was set up with. Guessing I may need to lower the hitch a notch or so, but first well hook all up to check. Hope you are right and no adjustment will be necessary.

[steiny]

Just finished the EZ "Set up" on my new 22' Tundra. Foakes was correct. No height adjustment was necessary and the WD was good too. So was plug and play from the settings of my 2005 Tacoma.

Thanks all for your assistance and input, much appreciated.

Thanks all.

[foakes]

Glad it worked out with no hassles!

Best, Fred