can a pull a 160 with my Honda Pilot?

[sue.zee.q]

Hi everyone.
I am looking at purchasing a 2005 fun finder 160. I'm wondering if I can tow it with my Honda Pilot. Anyone here using the same vehicle? I have never towed ANYTHING and am very nervous about making a bad purchase for our family. We have very very young children. Any input would help.
Thanks
Sue

[keyser soze]

Greetings sue.zee.q!

When it comes to towing capacity, you really need to verify that info for yourself, as it is a HUGE safety issue and if someone on-line mis-quoted vital info, your safety, and your families safety can be in jepordy.

That said, the quick answer would be...it depends!!

A search of online resources provided the following info:

2003 Honda Pilot 4500 lb MAX towing/1000 lb standard
2004 Honda Pilot 4500 lb MAX towing/1000 lb standard
2005 Honda Pilot 4500 lb MAX towing/1000 lb standard
2006 Honda Pilot 4500 lb MAX towing with 4wd /3500 lb 2wd
2007 Honda Pilot 4500 lb MAX towing with 4wd /3500 lb 2wd
2008 Honda Pilot 4500 lb MAX towing with 4wd /3500 lb 2wd

From what I see the Pilot needs to have a power steering cooler and a auto trans cooler, both avail from Honda, to qualify for max towing capacity. Once you have those items installed on the Pilot, you indeed have enough towing capacity.

The 2005 Fun Finder 160 has an empty weight of 1980 lbs, and a hitch weight of 190 lbs. Even if you have the 2wd version, with 3500lb capacity, you will have the towing capacity, but you will need to very cognizant of what you load so you don't exceed the weight ratings.

This info is provided as a guidline. For full verification for your specific vehicle, look in your owners manual for towing capacity, or you can call Honda and they will tell you.

Good luck!!

[JeepGuy]

i would say you would have no problem once you add the stuff to your pilot. i tow a 2008 160 with my 2007 wrangler and it does ok. its a little lacking on the power but it does have a crappy motor in it. if you have never towed anything before maybe youy have a friend with a small land scaping trailer you could borrow ot take around a bit. i know the 1st time i towed my 160 i was a bit nervous (and i have towed other things including my 20' pontoon boat)

[leebob]

I tow my T160 with an 2002 Quest van. It's tow capacity is 3500 lbs. But you also have to consider your tow vehicles luggage load too. With my camper empty, I have no major problem maintaining highway speeds. Loaded, well it struggles.You might want to keep that in mind. Also, be sure to get a stabilizer hitch with an anti-sway bar. It really makes a difference on the highway and how your tow vehicle handles. A brake controller is a must too. It applies the brakes on your camper when you hit the brakes on your Honda. Hope this helps and good luck, we love our Funfinder.

[paulitzlee2]

We have a 2006 Honda Pilot. My wife likes the Fun Finder 139X. I think it's too big to tow with a Honda Pilot. The towing capacity is 3500 lbs. for a trailer.

Your input, please.

Thanks!

[keyser soze]

Originally Posted by paulitzlee2

We have a 2006 Honda Pilot. My wife likes the Fun Finder 139X. I think it's too big to tow with a Honda Pilot. The towing capacity is 3500 lbs. for a trailer.

Your input, please.

Thanks!

In my opinion your Pilot will do great. In figuring the capacity for towing you have to take several factors into account. What it boils down to is what is the Maximum Combined Vehicle Weight Rating and are you below it? This is factored in the following manner, and we will use my Xterra as I know what the values are.

The Combined Weight Rating is 9658. Right now my Xterra weighs 4232lbs, (yes I weighed it!). My trailer weighs 4465lbs, I weight it too. COMBINED, they weigh 8697. Then we add in my weight 200lbs, wifes weight, 147, our dogs 75lbs each, and 125lbs for groceries and supplies. Added all together we are at 9319, over 300lbs below the max weight. You need to do the same, just use the listed weights for the pilot and the listed weights for the 139, then add in all the weights you know, and get an idea where you are at. With a 3500lb max tow and the max weight of the trailer at 3300, you should be fine, just remember everything you take with you, water, food, toys, people, etc have weight to them so add it up!

[paulitzlee2]

Ok, we did it. We bought a 2006 FF 139X. The dry weight is 1920.

I have a 2006 Honda Pilot, automatic transmission. The dealer said because the trailer was only around 2000 lbs., I did NOT need the transmission cooler. My owner's manual says I DO need it.

What do you think? Will the trailer put more strain on my transmission, justifying the transmission cooler package? Will I ruin my transmission if I don't get it? Do I need it, or is it just for the dealer to make money?

Please advise.

Thanks!

Patrick
Sacramento, CA

[keyser soze]

Hey Patrick,

Once you get loaded remember, 1920lbs dry weight, plus 20lbs of propane, 35lbs for a battery, and 200lbs if you fill the fresh water tank, making your trailer 2175 BEFORE you load food/clothes/and other supplies. You could easily be at 2500 - 2750 when you pull out onto the road.

Strain on the tow vehicle comes from 2 issues, weight and wind resistance generated by the sail area of the front of the trailer. Weight is the primary issue because you are not just trying to pull the trailer, your tow vehicle has to be able to stop the trailer safely. Wind resistance, while not as big a concern as safety, it is a huge issue when it comes to wear and tear on the tow vehicle. Modern automatic transmissions have a "Fluid" link between the engine and the gear set of the trans allowing shifting, and engagement. Once you are up to cruising speeds, the trans "Locks", no longer using the fluid coupling, the gears are directly driving the output shaft, enabling the best performace and longevity. When you are towing at highway speeds, the trans does not lock up and the friction created in the fluid coupling creates a lot of heat, and plain and simple, excessive heat kills the trans fluid. A trans fluid cooler helps dissipate the heat, helping your trans run cooler, and run longer. IMO, trans coolers are good insurance. If the dealer is too expensive, check out your local off-road shop or RV center. They can install a performance trans cooler probably cheaper than the dealer will.

[paulitzlee2]

Ok. I bought the trailer. 2006 FF X139, 1920 pounds dry.

I'm a towing virgin. The first time I drove with that trailer behind me was scary.

Questions/concerns:

1) When I unhitched the trailer after my test run, I had to use a hammer and pry the hitch from the ball. My neighbor, an SUV veteran, did it for me. Is that normal? Could my hitch be defective? The guy who delivered it had the same problem. Is it possible to replace the trailer hitch, or it's attached to the trailer frame?

2) How do you know for sure you're hitched? You just look at it? No click, no snap, no definite way to assure you did it right? Does the weight of the tongue hold it down? How do you know you didn't screw it up and have a trailer come off on the freeway? Is there an extra device I can attach for my own piece-of-mind? Not the safety chains or safety cable. Something to assure it's hitched correctly to begin with.

3) It's awful noisy when I go over a speed bump, and in general, the hitch can be noisy. It sounds like the whole darned thing is going to come apart. My neighbor hitched me up, so I trust him, but that noise makes me nervous. Is that normal?

4) How do you do the electronic brakes again? Drive on level ground at 20 MPH and flip the switch and move the dial and see if the brakes pull? I have a Prodigy system. How do you know how far to dial it?

5) Non-towing question. Can you buy a battery tester for your battery, so you can assure you have enough juice for your trip? I think mine charges as I'm driving, so that may not be an issue.

6) I'm scared as hell about pulling a 2000+ vehichle behind me on the freeway. Is this normal? Were you scared the first time you pulled your trailer?

[jb_bb]

1) When I unhitched the trailer after my test run, I had to use a hammer and pry the hitch from the ball. My neighbor, an SUV veteran, did it for me. Is that normal? Could my hitch be defective? The guy who delivered it had the same problem. Is it possible to replace the trailer hitch, or it's attached to the trailer frame?

This isn't normal, although one quick question. were you on any incline at all when trying to unlatch. When I am on an incline with the trailer higher up, I have to block the wheels of the trailer then roll the Acadia forward 1/2" to take the pressure off the latch. If you take a look (internal) at the actual hitch on the trailer, try to understand how if works. You may just need to spray some WD40 on it.

2) How do you know for sure you're hitched? You just look at it? No click, no snap, no definite way to assure you did it right? Does the weight of the tongue hold it down? How do you know you didn't screw it up and have a trailer come off on the freeway? Is there an extra device I can attach for my own piece-of-mind? Not the safety chains or safety cable. Something to assure it's hitched correctly to begin with.

you won't be able to put the handle down if you are not hitched. I would advise you to start reading up on towing. There is a ton of information on it. Both your tow vehicle manual and trailer manual.

3) It's awful noisy when I go over a speed bump, and in general, the hitch can be noisy. It sounds like the whole darned thing is going to come apart. My neighbor hitched me up, so I trust him, but that noise makes me nervous. Is that normal?

What sort of noise? clunking, chains dragging, squeeking?
Some noise is normal, but typically everything should be tight. The only place I noticed any play on my setup was on the 2" reciever on the Acadia. I made some shims out of sheet metal to tighten them up. Works like a charm.

4) How do you do the electronic brakes again? Drive on level ground at 20 MPH and flip the switch and move the dial and see if the brakes pull? I have a Prodigy system. How do you know how far to dial it?

Check the brake control manual. Every brand brake controller is different, I have a prodigy also, and it was very well spelled out in the manual.

5) Non-towing question. Can you buy a battery tester for your battery, so you can assure you have enough juice for your trip? I think mine charges as I'm driving, so that may not be an issue.

Do you know anyone that owns an RV? If so, you may want to talk them into giving you a proper walk through. To answer your question there is a battery qauge on your info center that contains the tanks levels.

6) I'm scared as hell about pulling a 2000+ vehicle behind me on the freeway. Is this normal? Were you scared the first time you pulled your trailer?

What speed are you towing at?

Well, I can say this much. Yes it can be a scary experience for some people, but do not let that get in the way. Once you get moving and have a couple miles under your belt, you will start to relax and you will see it's not that bad. One thing that keeps me going is the thought of ice cold (insert beverage here) and a campfire. mmmm beer.

Here's the main thing to remember. you are towing a trailer.
your stopping distances are alot longer now, acceleration not even close to normal. But you are going on a vacation/adventure. Take your time (ie. slow down to a speed you feel comfortable), take breaks because it can be stressful (and to let the lineup of cars pass), and drive defensively.

[keyser soze]

Patrick,

It's normal to be scared when you first start towing, but with each time you tow your experiance and confidence will grow and soon you will be confident in your abilities and your equipment, so relax and take it a step at a time. Learning to tow is like learning to drive all over again. Practice makes perfect. Try hitching up your trailer with your neighbor overseeing the procedure, and then take your rig out early on a Sunday morning when there is little traffic. Find a large area, like a mall parking lot, where you can practice turns, stopping, backing up, etc to get aquainted with towing.

Now, on to your questions...

1) The clearance between the Ball on the reciever and the Coupler on the trailer is only about 1/8 inch. With your trailer being fairly new you might also have a good layer of paint inside the coupler, that can make it stick a bit, but after a few miles of towing the paint will wear off and it will engage and disengage easier. If the coupler and ball have any tension on them, like they are parked on any kind of incline or decline, it will take a bit of force to disengage them. Hitching and un-hitching works best on level ground with your TV in neutral, this will allow the ball and hitch to engage or disengage a bit easier. I have the same issue with my trailer and I use a prybar to help with the procedure. When you lower the hitch onto the ball it should drop down onto the ball with minimal fuss, the problem should be when dropping the "Latch" that captures the ball. You might need to use a pry bar to move the ball a little for the latch to clear and engage. If the latch opens easily but the ball and coupler stick, that should ease up a bit after towing a few times. If you have to apply a large load to seperate or engage the ball/coupler, you need to take it in to be looked at.

2) You are sure you are hitched when the coupler is down over the ball and the latch is in the down position. I use a padlock to ensure the latch can't open until I want it to. Look at the latch, there is a hole in the side you can use to pin or lock it in place.

3) There will be some noise with the coupler/chains/pins and all, but it should not be real loud unless you are driving over speed bumps and holes too fast. The noise is just a part of towing, again, after a few trips you will recognize them and not worry.

4)Trailer Brakes. To start with, set the sensitivity and brake force at 50%. Again, in a parking lot or quiet street get rolling 10mph or so and apply the brakes. Now increase the force to about 60% and see how it feels. You want the brakes to engage and pull back on the trailer, but you don't want to be skidding any tires. I find the mid setting work well. To see if they are working, find a section of flat ground, like a parking lot or quiet street. Roll down the driver’s window, engage the trailer brake with the slide on the trailer brake controller mounted in your Pilot, this is accomplished by sliding the spring loaded lever in fully, then put your foot on the brakes and put the Pilot in Drive. Remove your foot from the brake but keep the slide on the controller fully pushed. You will feel the rear of the Pilot drop slightly, hear the hitch tighten, but your Pilot and trailer should not roll at all. Now release the slide, you should hear the brakes release, and you should start rolling. After rolling a few feet, slide the lever back in slowly and you should feel the trailer start to drag the pilot back to a stop. The purpose of the brakes is to slow the mass of the trailer, but more importantly, it’s to keep the trailer behind you during hard braking. During normal operations, you should feel them initially grab and help stop, once operating correctly, you will know when they are working and when they are not. There are adjustments on the controller that increase the force and sensitivity of the trailer brakes.

5) After each trip you should remove the battery and place it in a garage or shed or utility room (Ventilated) and hook it up to a "Trickle Chager" or "Deep Cycle" charger. You can get chargers that will automatically shut off when fully charged. It is bad for a Deep Cyle battery to be left un-attended and fully discharge.

6) Yes, I was scared the first time I pulled a trailer. Remember to go at your pace, drive with in your own limits. The speed limit might be 65, 70 or 75 but that doesn't mean you have to drive that fast. Keep the speed around 50 - 55 on the highway at first, and let your experiance build. On long down hill sections put your tow vehicle in a lower gear and keep below the posted speed limit by 5 to 10 mph, remebering to NOT ride the brakes, just apply smoothly when needed, then let off to allow them to cool. Out on the highway, where the speed limit is 75, the fastest I drive is 65. Once you get a few trips under your belt you will be fine.

I hope this helps!

Alan

[paulitzlee2]

Thanks for all your help. I think I'll have a few more test runs. BTW, the place my trailer is stored isn't completely level. That may account for the hitch not connecting right. I'll get a hitch pin to ease my mind even more. My wife wants the trailer in the front yard, but it's on a slight incline. I think we should build a pad in the backyard, but the wife doesn't want to "see" it in the backyard. Anyway, I'll keep playing with it until I'm comfortable. Thanks for your help!

[jb_bb]

5) After each trip you should remove the battery and place it in a garage or shed or utility room (Ventilated) and hook it up to a "Trickle Chager" or "Deep Cycle" charger. You can get chargers that will automatically shut off when fully charged. It is bad for a Deep Cycle battery to be left un-attended and fully discharge.

You do this after every trip?? Seems abit excessive & unnecessary. I only remove my battery for winter storage, but then again, I use my trailer almost every weekend throughout the summer. You could also just plug the trailer in and use the inverter. Typically, I will just plug the trailer into the house power the night before I head out camping, battery is fully charged by morning and last 2-3 days depending on usage. Haven't seen a decrease in battery life either.

[keyser soze]

Originally Posted by jb_bb

You do this after every trip?? Seems abit excessive & unnecessary. I only remove my battery for winter storage, but then again, I use my trailer almost every weekend throughout the summer. You could also just plug the trailer in and use the inverter. Typically, I will just plug the trailer into the house power the night before I head out camping, battery is fully charged by morning and last 2-3 days depending on usage. Haven't seen a decrease in battery life either.

I stated "It is bad for a deep cycle battery to be left unattended and fully discharged." If you are using it often, it is not unattended and you should have no problems. I wish we could go every weekend, but we average a 3 or 4 day trip every 2 months, and a battery sitting unattended for 2 months, can be near out of charge, especially in high or low temps. Yes, I do it after each trip, for us it is Summer Storage. 110 degree days will destroy a battery so I have gotten into the habit of pulling it after each trip and putting it in our utlity room. Takes all of 5 minutes.

[jb_bb]

Ok that makes more sense. It definitely doesn't hurt to remove it in cases similar to yours.

Unfortunately we don't get nice weather very long up here. Typically July and August we might get up to around 70-85f up here, so any chance I get, I'm out camping. I wish it get up to 110F up here . Two more weeks til the first trip of the year .

[keyser soze]

jb_bb, how many months is your summer season up there? We took our first trip in Feb, we went to Williams AZ, old Route 66 territory, chilly at night, around 25 F or so, but 55 F during the day, it was fun to play in the snow!

Our next trip was 2 weeks ago, we went up to a camp site 25 miles south of Flaggstaff AZ, up at 7100' elevation. We spent 4 days up there and didn't want to come back.

Our next trip is scheduled for mid Aug, a week in Colorado. I hope to go for a weekend sometime before then, but with our schedules its hard.

Where do you go camping?

[jb_bb]

Well, our actual summer season is from about mid June to end of August. By actual summer I mean not get down to freezing every night. Although my camping season always starts May Long weekend (16-18th) and goes through to mid september. We can pretty much always expect to have frost or snow til June, although it usually melts by lunch. Last year we got 6 inches while camping out at Mount Kidd (100miles west of Calgary) in June. That was fun ...

Weather up here is Very unpredictable. In May we can go from 77F one minute to snowing a couple hours later.

We are very lucky here, we have every type of camping available within a couple hours of Calgary. If I head west an hour, I'm in the mountains. If I continue driving a couple more hours west, I'm in Windermere area (lakes). North a couple hours rolling hills & lakes. East of us, is well probably very similar to Arizona (dry, hot). Pretty much any thing you can think of (except ocean) is close to us. I camp all over the place. This year I'm heading down to Lake Koocanusa (Montana) for a week in August, and every other weekend I will be either heading north to my in-laws spot on Buck Lake (2.5 hours north of Calgary) or some other campgrounds close by (mountains or lake). That is of course if my 6 month old enjoys camping. If not, well I might be staying home.

[paulitzlee2]

I'm having the darndest time finding a 1/4 inch hitch pin. Most hitch pins are 1 1/4 or 2 inches for the huge trailers. I've tried a FunFinder dealer, Ace Hardware, and lots of other places, with no luck. They are all either too fat or too short. Like me...

A neighbor went to Kabela's, but that's in Reno, at least 100 miles away. Any ideas on where to find one? Or what to use to improvise? I live in the Sacramento area.

[jb_bb]

You could just use the longer ones. As long as it fits throught the hole.

Or you could just get a bolt that fits.

[keyser soze]

I use a padlock, see link...

http://tinyurl.com/o5rxog

The added benefit of a lock is when the trailer is parked and the lock in place, no one can roll up and grab your trailer without opening the lock, or cutting it off, it adds a little security.