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Old 07-25-2022, 10:30 AM   #1
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Default fuse box

Can anyone tell me if there is a fuse box on the inside of the FF139? Just replaced battery and fuse outside and still no power? Appreciate it
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Old 07-25-2022, 10:42 AM   #2
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Yes -- it is part of the converter -- open the little black swing-out door and you should see the fuse box.

Pro tip -- use a fuse puller to take out the fuses. Do not use a needle nose pliers.

Don't ask how I know this.
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Old 07-25-2022, 10:50 AM   #3
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Thank you! I'm not in the camper right now but can you tell me where the converter box is and I'll open it when I get home
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Old 07-25-2022, 12:17 PM   #4
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On all of the 139 models I have seen (four of them), the converter box is on the rear wall of the trailer, low down, near the bathroom. It's made of black plastic.
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Old 07-25-2022, 12:33 PM   #5
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Thank you. I'll check it tonight

Appreciate your help!
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Old 07-26-2022, 02:16 PM   #6
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Found the fuses. Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-29-2022, 04:02 PM   #7
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Next up, the discussion about the “Master” cut-off switch in the center of the pass thru storage compartment !
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Old 08-01-2022, 08:44 AM   #8
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Bought a 3500 wall generator this weekend to power everything (especially AC) Still need to figure out how to get battery working when generators off. Replaced battery, but still no power to the camper
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Old 08-01-2022, 10:14 AM   #9
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There is often an in-line fuse on the positive cable battery -- it's in a little silver box near the battery. Maybe that's the problem? Let us know.
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Old 08-01-2022, 10:19 AM   #10
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Correction -- some in line fuse boxes are black, not silver. Mine is silver.
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Old 08-01-2022, 12:51 PM   #11
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I have to shut off the main fuse in the converter box to change that? Keeps sparking when I change out that fuse by the battery
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Old 08-01-2022, 02:00 PM   #12
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Hmm. What keeps sparking -- the battery terminal or the fuse??

In any event, you probably already know this, but if not -- you need to hit the battery disconnect switch when changing the fuse. The battery switch is probably a silver bell shaped knob on your master control panel -- push it in to disconnect the battery.
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Old 08-01-2022, 02:03 PM   #13
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And Rip, you called it!! Except that the 139 does not have a pass-through.

And Health Trax, good job on asking questions! We were all newbies, once upon a time. It is fun for us old timers to help today's newbies avoid some of the mistakes we made long ago.

Hang in there, and keep asking!!
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Old 08-01-2022, 02:30 PM   #14
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There is a fuse (pass through) right off the battery. When the battery is connected, it sparks when I change the fuse. Also, when I put the new battery on, it also sparked when connecting terminals. Hence, locating the converter box innside, I noticed a "main" fuse. I assume, since the fuse was "on", there is a load that is causing the battery (and pass through) to spark. I assume I need to turn the main fuse off, disconnect the battery, then change the passthrough fuse...then work backwards connecting the battery, and turning the the main fuse back on. Sound right? Really appreciate your help
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Old 08-01-2022, 05:31 PM   #15
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When you say "turn the main fuse off," are you talking about the disconnect switch? That is a key part of this whole project. Does your trailer have a disconnect switch on the main control panel?

The control panel is not the same thing as the converter box.

You also mention a pass through. I have never seen a 139 with a pass through -- only on the larger trailers. Do you have one??
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Old 08-01-2022, 05:33 PM   #16
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I should add that a pass through is a compartment that goes clear from one side of the trailer to the other -- it permits storage of gear under the trailer. 139s are too small for that feature, as far as I know.

In some of the larger models, the battery disconnect switch is located in that pass through area. Sometimes, loose gear can push the switch, cutting off the battery.

Us 139 owners don't have that problem, since we don't have that extra storage area.
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Old 08-12-2022, 07:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by profdant139 View Post
And Rip, you called it!! Except that the 139 does not have a pass-through.

And Health Trax, good job on asking questions! We were all newbies, once upon a time. It is fun for us old timers to help today's newbies avoid some of the mistakes we made long ago.

Hang in there, and keep asking!!
Oops! I guess one doesn’t know what one doesn’t know . Perhaps I should have been more vague and just mentioned the often elusive “disconnect switch”!
While many here on the FF forum have come to know the “pass thru” as the storage area opening to and accessible from both side of many (but I now know, not all) FF models, it’s obvious that “pass thru” can have other meanings.
Anyway, I hope the OP finds a solution to the issues mentioned. I have read here on the forum that the OEM WFCO power converter found on many of Cruiser RV/FunFinder models has been a source of problems for some owners. So far, I’ve been lucky with my 3 Stage unit. Once it’s determined that the disconnect switch is not the issue, I’d recommend checking the in line fuse near the battery AND be sure that the battery connections are correct. To again quote Profdant139 “Don’t ask how I know this” .
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Old 10-11-2022, 06:21 AM   #18
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Appreciate if someone has suggestions on how to fix my heater. It's blowing cold air even at the highest setting. Thanks!
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Old 10-11-2022, 10:53 AM   #19
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I’m assuming that you’re referring to your gas furnace. Suburban is a likely OEM furnace provider but can’t say for sure in the case of the 139 series. First thing that I would do is determine the make and model of the furnace and then search the internet for a User’s Manual. Has the furnace ever worked or is this a new development?
Without insulting anyone’s intelligence, it goes without saying that the camper’s propane supply has to on. Propane in tank and valve open. Also, electronic ignition system requires the camper’s 12volt system to be completely functional. I’m wondering if this is the case as previous discussions RE: the “in-line” (pass-thru?) fuse. The reference to the fuse “sparking” leads me to believe that a reverse polarity issue may be in play. Just sayin’.
The fact that the heater’s fan comes on when the thermostat lever is moved past ambient temp, shows that power IS getting to the unit.
Barring that approach, if the heater hasn’t been used for a while, spiders could have very well “moved in” and their nesting may be affecting the furnace’s function. Remove the vent panel inside the camper and vacuum the entire furnace interior. The intake and exhaust vent on the outside of the camper can be removed so that the tubes can be inspected and cleaned of detritus. Just for fun, moments ago, I removed the brown vent cover on my Suburban NT 16SE furnace. There is no internal valve BUT there is a small rocker switch (visible but virtually inaccessible) that I believe controls the gas valve. Since it’s all but inaccessible, I think that it’s meant to be left in the “on” position unless professional maintenance is being done on the unit. If the furnace is a Suburban unit, remove the vent cover and see if this switch is in the “on” position. I do suppose that it’s possible that the switch was never turned on and the previous owners never had the occasion to use the furnace hence never knew that it didn’t work. I hope the above info is useful.
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