2008 Fun Finder 189X FBS Battery Dying Fast

[maicea7@hotmail.com]

So I have a 2008 Fun finder, I just started leaving at a camp lot for the summer while using the propane part of the fridge. For some reason my battery is dying in 3-4 days. I had a Trail Sport before that would last weeks just running the fridge on propane. The only things I can find on, is the Propane Detector in the floor along with radios clock light. Am I doing something wrong? Tried turning off the main breaker but the battery override switch seems to just by pass the breakers.

Thanks if anyone can provide help!

 

[foakes]

Assuming your battery is in good condition (it may not be) is #1.

There is a battery disconnect switch on the passenger side upper left of the pass-through storage, that is #2.

But even if your battery is disconnected — it will lose its charge and the volts will be reduced, that is #3.

So, what works for me (I have a ‘09 189FBS) is to pull the battery when not in use — and keep it on a Battery Minder Plus — which is a little device that automatically trickle charges and reconditions the deep cycle battery fully and safely. It is safe to keep connected and plugged in all of the time when not camping — since it automatically detects when to charge and when to stop.

I have 2 larger chargers — but this one was recommended by our ProfDan — and has been effective in keeping a full charge, is simple and bulletproof, and it is dirt cheap at about $46 delivered including tax.

All batteries go down and dead when not being used. Some quicker than others — and this works very well for me.

I also keep a volt meter on board at all times. It also helps with other issues — but will also give you an accurate battery voltage measurement.

Best, Fred

 

[maicea7@hotmail.com]

Hi foaks

Since we last spoke, I’ve tried charging both batteries to find one abit weak. So I hooked up the strong one and I’m getting even less time running the fridge on propane. 3 days and the battery is saying it’s on E inside the trailer.

Nothing is on except the gas detector and the clock light. I did discover the fridge was turned up on max cold and took it down to half last night. When I came back this morning that’s when it was on E. So now it’s on the minimum cold setting. It’s the only thing I can think of.

I even hooked up a solar panel last evening to help and it did nothing to combat the battery drain. It’s been overcast all morning but still.

I’m running out of options.

 

[herdbull]

Please post your battery model. That might help us a bit. Also, what are you using to determine the battery level? How long are you charging a completely discharged battery? How is the water level in the battery or batteries?

 

[gator-FUN]

Try removing the light bulb from your fridge. Depending on the mode of the fridge this bulb could be on all the time.

 

[Myron-FUN]

I had a problem with my battery draining within hours. Then I discovered there's a safety switch that locks up the brakes (electric) when it is detached from the sending
unit, thereby preventing your rv from rolling should it unbuckle from the hitch. It's a safety feature some states require.
Get a replacement pin, dirt cheap, stick in there, and see if your trailer can be pulled. If it doesn't move, that means your battery is powering the electirc brakes, and draining your battery. Good luck.

 

[dustyone-FUN]

There is more draining your battery than you think. The radio is probably a Jenson. That radio has a memory which is always on. The gas detector close to the floor. Always on. The refrigerator has a control board the water heater has a control board. These heater has a control board these also are always active even if they are not running. If you have a tv is it a 12 volt? It will also have a memory circuit. Now depending on the type and size of the battery you maybe drawing around 2 amps an hr from the battery. Do not go buy the monitor that they install in the camper when built. They are inaccurate. Get an inexpensive volt meter at any hardware store and check the battery. A group 24 deep cycle battery only has about 70 Amp capacity. That means you only have about half or 35 Amp before it is dead. And that is if the battery is new. As a battery ages it's storage capacity decreases.

 

[maicea7@hotmail.com]

You have all been a great help. I did take the bulb out of the fridge the other day and the battery indicator inside the trailer seems like it didn't move for the first time. However I will look into those electric brakes as well. Definitely alot having a flow through it like you guys said, Jenson radio lit up, smoke detectors, and the fridge with its board for sure. I'll keep you all posted on how things go!

Thanks again

 

[RipVan]

You have all been a great help. I did take the bulb out of the fridge the other day and the battery indicator inside the trailer seems like it didn't move for the first time. However I will look into those electric brakes as well. Definitely alot having a flow through it like you guys said, Jenson radio lit up, smoke detectors, and the fridge with its board for sure. I'll keep you all posted on how things go!

Thanks again

Do you absolutely need to have the fridge running while the rig is sitting in the “camp lot” (which I’m assuming doesn’t have shore power available)? If not, I’d do what others have suggested i.e. take the battery out and hook it up to a “smart/trickle charger” in between camping trips.

 

[1kotonk]

maicea7@hotmail.com,
I have a 2008 139x, with a group 31, lead acid 105 amp hr deep cell battery. When I go out I don't use my interior lights, water heater or anything eclectic in the trailer. I try to conserve battery power so I can stay out longer. I am like you the only thing using power is the propane powered fridge. I am good for 3 days and the battery needs to be recharged. I figure the trailer must be pulling one amp just monitoring what ever it monitors. 3 years and the battery is toast. I probably only used it 3 or 4 times a year.

I purchased a Lithium 100 amp hr battery so hopefully that will extend my power and longevity of the battery. I haven't had a chance to go out boondocking yet. So Ill guess Ill see if it was worth the investment.

 

[herdbull]

amp hours = amp hours. So replacing a 100amp/hr battery with another 100amp/hr battery really didn't gain you much if anything other than I believe you take a lithium battery lower than a lead acid battery. But I'm not sure.

Your 100amp/hr lead acid is good for 50amp/hr before it is dead or considered dead. You should never take a lead acid battery below 50% of it's rated amp hours. It will shorten the life of the battery. Here's a handy calculator to play around with. It can be an eye opener as to how little of a draw can drain a battery. In your instance a 50amp battery would last 72hrs while drawing 7watts. Sounds about right. My fridge on propane alone draws that much. Plus any detectors running, radio draw even if off. Milliamps add up over days and days.

https://calculator.academy/battery-run-time-calculator/