Anderson Hitches - Levelers

michellep

michellep

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2014
Messages
488
Location
NW TN
I got a pair of these levelers and for me - they are AWESOME!

310D6jd1oIL.jpg


I have also ordered, and have not yet installed (scared to screw into the trailer) a GIANT WheelMasters bubble level. Meant to be installed on the front of the trailer and you can see it from the driver's seat of my truck.

Any advice on how to screw into the trailer (4 screws) and not "screw" it up? :)

levelmaster2.png
 
I have used 3M auto double sided tape to put a bubble level on my trailer. Four years and it is still stuck on good.
 
Well, that's a dream-come-true for a non-driller like me!! Okay, I shouldn't say "non-driller". I should use the term "bad driller"...

Do you think an automotive supply store might have it, or will I need to order online?

Is this the stuff? http://www.autogeek.net/3m-auto-tape.html
 
Screws

Michelle --

I don't trust those tapes -- I have had them fail in wet and windy weather. Don't be afraid to use screws. First, position the level and mark the holes with a pencil. Using an awl, make a little pilot hole for your drill -- otherwise, the drill bit can "walk" off center. You need pan-head screws, about three eighths or a half inch long, number 6 (a small size). You need a drill bit that is a little smaller in diameter than the shaft of the screw.

Most crucially, you need to make sure that when you drill, the bit will not go too far into the wall -- just through the outer skin of your trailer. If possible, insert the drill bit into the chuck of the drill so that about a half inch of bit is exposed. If that is not possible, put a bit of masking tape as a flag on the bit, about a half inch from the tip. When the bit descends into the outer wall of the trailer, stop drilling when the flag hits the wall. Take it slow and easy.

Then just insert the screws, and that’s it!

Dan
 
I installed one of those BIG levels on my XT276.

The procedure used was as profdant139 described with the exception that I put a dab of butyal caulk into/on each drilled hole before running in the screws as wanted to be certain no water could enter the holes. Maybe overkill but thought it was a good idea.

8)
 
So I google image searched #6 pan head screw...results showed either a pointy end or a flat end. I'd get the pointy end, right?

And what material because I don't want them to rust?

I have butyl tape - can I use a tiny piece of that instead of butyl caulk?
 
You want a self tapping screw which should be the pointy end one. Go to your local Ace Hardware and they will help you pick the right one. Home Depot too, but its sometimes harder to find someone who can help. Also at Ace you can just buy the number of screws you need, usually HD is only going to carry a bag of at least a dozen or so.

For the material you will want stainless steel.

The butyl tape will work just fine.
 
go with exterior dbl sided tape, used in skyscrapers for window attachment should be able to handle a bubble level. been on mine for 2 years no problems
 
Yes that is the stuff I used, 4 years and still stuck on good. If you use the
el cheepo stuff yes it will fail, but the 3 M stuff if properly applied will last years.
 
Eagle is right

Yes -- put something in the hole to prevent water from seeping in.

Not sure where one would get really good two sided tape -- the stuff I get at the hardware stores is ok for carpet, not so good on metal and fiberglass on a vehicle exposed to wind and rain.
 
Yes autoparts stores will carry the 3M stuff. That's what the automakers use now to hold the badges on cars & trucks right from the factory.
 
Kafn8td said:
3M exterior double sided tape. Most auto part stores will carry the automotive trim style...
Click to expand...

Is the automotive trim style the same as the exterior double sided style?

I bought the automotive trim style. It was ten bucks, so I don't want to open the package if I need to return the automotive trim and find the exterior double sided...
 
Very similar. The automotive trim is also for exterior, so you will be good to go. Use alcohol or a prep pad of some type to clean both the trailer and the part before applying.
 
Okay, another issue that is beyond my pay grade...

The only flat surface on the back of this level is that tiny ridge that goes all the way around (yellow arrow). All other surfaces are recessed, including the place for the screws.

Will that tiny ridge hold the level, or do I need to come up with something to make more surface area flush?

(I truly wish I was not scared to drill...you all make it sound so easy, but I just know I'd screw it up)

Thanks!

Michelle

Oops. Forgot to add the pic...

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just build up the ends with the tape, not hard and then run a strip length wide on top and bottom, that should do it. or just mount a back plate to the level and then apply tape and stick to trailer. you can get small aluminum or plastic sheet at loews or home depot that you can cut to size or have them do it. better than drilling holes in the trailer unless really needed
 
If the tape has adequate thickness when placed within the border, that is within the recessed area, I'd cover that area entirely then stick it to the camper . If not, your other option is to put the tape flush with the exterior edge but that only provides limited adhesion and not sure if an adequate amount. ??

And be sure the camper is level first so the new level reads accurately once installed....as I'm sure you know.
 
Wow!

Well, I have sure learned something -- I did not know there was a special auto style double sided tape. If it works on a camera on a motorcycle at 140, it will work on a trailer!
 
Re: Wow!

profdant139 said:
Well, I have sure learned something -- I did not know there was a special auto style double sided tape. If it works on a camera on a motorcycle at 140, it will work on a trailer!
Click to expand...

And the most I have to lose is a $15 level!! It could be much worse if I took a drill to the new trailer! :oops:
 
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