Arc Welding

1kotonk

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2016
Messages
153
Location
Los Angeles. CA
Question, I want to arc weld on the battery holder on the toungue of my TT. Will that damage any electronics in the trailer are there any precautions that need to be taken.
 
No idea why it should. Welding repairs are done on vehicles frequently.
However, I am not a welder.
 
Just Regular Caution

I moved my propane tank tray a little closer to the tongue and also constructed a larger (4-battery) tray. I welded both of these to the trailer tongue/frame. Also welded a bracket on the frame in order to stretch a cable/lock over the 4-battery box. No issues but just a few common sense steps. I disconnected the propane, removed the tanks and got the hoses out of the way. I disconnected the battery, moved the cables out of the way. Watch out when welding near the break-away switch. Don't want to damage it in any way.
Just watch out to keep the heat and any sparks from damaging the gelcoat front of the camper.
 
Question, I want to arc weld on the battery holder on the toungue of my TT. Will that damage any electronics in the trailer are there any precautions that need to be taken.

1kotonk,
I don't know what you want up there... My trailer had a screen bottom rack on the tongue and I just upgraded the batteries from a single grp-24 to two grp-31 batts... The rack was bolted at each corner; I removed the rack for paint touch-up, moved it aft a bit to allow more room for the propane tank cover, and reinstalled it; then, I just bolted the plastic battery boxes down in new positions using round-head SS machine screws, large fender washers, lock washers, and nuts; and rewired for dual batteries... :wink:

If you have no rack now, why not build the battery rack and then, bolt it to the frame with either screw-point metal screws or U-Bolts??? This will allow easy removal for maintenance, changes, etc... :) If you have a rack, maybe battery boxes can easily be bolted to it... ;-)

Good Grief... I am the world's worst at taking and filing photos... :rolleyes:
I know I have pics of the rack and battery mod and install, but where... :rolleyes:
 
OCD - Overly Cautious Dude

So - once, while drinking beer, I was told (so I know it has to be true); resist the urge to drill in to or through and resist using those self-tapping screws to the maximum extent possible on your trailer's tongue.
Kind of like drilling holes through the floor joists of a house. MIGHT weaken structural integrity. Most likely not - but, drilling in to makes a hole. Holes let in air/moisture etc. which can cause places to rust. That's assuming your frame is a rectangular steel channel tube, not some sort of steel channel or H or I steel beam.
So-exercise caution before drilling. . . Just saying.
 
So - once, while drinking beer, I was told (so I know it has to be true); resist the urge to drill in to or through and resist using those self-tapping screws to the maximum extent possible on your trailer's tongue.
Kind of like drilling holes through the floor joists of a house. MIGHT weaken structural integrity. Most likely not - but, drilling in to makes a hole. Holes let in air/moisture etc. which can cause places to rust. That's assuming your frame is a rectangular steel channel tube, not some sort of steel channel or H or I steel beam.
So-exercise caution before drilling. . . Just saying.

All good points... The tongue rack on my FF was installed by these self-tapping screws by the factory when the trailer was built... and so far, over 15,000 miles by me, mileage by previous owner is unknown. Yes, frames are welded and attachments are welded to frames, I am just saying that if not done correctly, cracking can result, especially if flexing of the base metal takes place.

Anyway, I didn't mean to start an argument, I was just suggesting optional methods for those that may not have a welder... U-bolts around the frame, or self-tapping screws, and of course, welding is also an obvious option, but as with drilling, it should also be done in a cautious and knowledgeable manner... :)

I am glad your carrier came out okay... :) Your cable was a good idea; when I put the battery boxes on the tongue of my FF, I used chain to help keep the honest, honest... :) Here is the frame of my Cargo Conversion before siding, insulation, and paneling covered it all up... :) I love that little 6 x 10 CC (aka The Desert Rat, my prospecting rig), still working on it and here are a couple pics taken 2 yrs. ago... :)

I hope we get a chance to meet around a friendly fire ring sometime... :)
 

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Strong Work

Seriously nice work.
"Keep the honest, honest" isn't that the truth? Nothing a cordless grinder can't cut - but helps us believe we did that little something extra so we can tell the cops our stuff didn't just walk away when we're filling out the police report for stolen stuff.
 
Personally, if I can bolt it on, I would do that over welding. Reason is that welds will break under vibration more readily than securing something with bolts. That is why the tell you to bolt on a hitch instead of welding it on.
 
Personally, if I can bolt it on, I would do that over welding. Reason is that welds will break under vibration more readily than securing something with bolts. That is why the tell you to bolt on a hitch instead of welding it on.

I agree and even though it may be difficult to see here, on the skeleton view of the trailer tongue in my previous post, the 1/8" deck plate was welded down before the anything else went on (note the frame and reinforcement tongue piece extending back to the first cross member fwd of the axle). All deck plate welds to the frame are "skip-welded" and placed only parallel with the long axis of the frame and none across the frame... This reduces cracking... Welds across the long axis of a supporting member tend to work harden in a more focused area of the HAZ of the weld and are more subject to cracking... ;)

The Forklift propane tank carrier and battery box on the CC (pictured) are bolted to the deck plate as are the battery boxes on the FF... :) It is also difficult to see, but I also added a padlock to the propane tank carrier on the CC; this was because of the rough roads I pulled this trailer off road via a 4x4 vehicle... :)

BTW... I found out that the batteries either overflow slightly or vaporize or somehow collect moisture into the box and I have drilled holes in them to let the water out... I am now going to change this and will install a hose drain through the bottom of the all boxes through a drain hole/s to extend 6 or 8 inches below the frame... :???:
 
Seriously nice work.
"Keep the honest, honest" isn't that the truth? Nothing a cordless grinder can't cut - but helps us believe we did that little something extra so we can tell the cops our stuff didn't just walk away when we're filling out the police report for stolen stuff.

Thank you runner421,
There is really little one can do to "prevent" theft and I suppose we are just trying to make our stuff either time consuming or difficult enough to drive the thief to someone else's goodies.

I built that trailer with retirement in mind; it was supposed to be for prospecting excursions and designed for one or two people. I pulled out one cots as the last couple times I used it by myself... I used super sturdy non-folding, except the legs, military surplus cots with custom made 4" mattresses... That sounds thin, but they sleep very well... :)

I use the trailer now only once or twice a year for Swapmeet trips and will probably work on the aesthetics of its interior this summer (The Boss said it needs to be more acceptable to women) and then, probably put it up for sale... :rolleyes:
 
My primary goal is NOT to present an item with a sign that says 'TAKE ME' as those who 'grab & run' don't walk around with a cable/bolt cutter. LOL The cable locks w/alarm will wake a sound sleeper up inside the camper.

Same reason I opted for the BAK Revolver X2 tonneau cover on the pickup bed .. it's all metal, locked in all the way down both sides so cannot be lifted or cut thru with a knife.
Revolver X2 Hard Rolling Tonneau Covers Overview Provides max security for items in the pickup bed .. where I carry my Honda 2000i generators, etc.

I've never had an item taken when camping and refuse to provide an open invite.

Of course, we all know the saying: "Locks keep honest people honest!"
;-)
 
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Thanks for all the replys, my travel trailer is small only allowing room for one battery. I up graded from a group 24 to a group 31. Big difference in weight. I wanted to try to weld some brackets to accept a pad lock, moving that 31 battery is a pain in the butt. I like the chain idea with a pad lock. I store my trailer at an open air storage yard so iam worry about theft..
 
I have a 2012 X210-UDS. Came with that darn single battery. I knew it wouldn't last.
So I'm carrying 4 deep cycle RV batteries right behind the propane tank. It did involve moving the propane tank tray as far forward as possible.
Then, modified/constructed a tray to hold a NOCO HM484 8D Commercial Grade Battery Box.
Has a lid and a very tight cable stretched over it to keep it locked up.
It's a tight fit, especially when checking the water level of the batteries.
But, it provides the power when boon docking, that and an inverter gives me 120-volt AC power for coffee making, charging the phones/computers.
 

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