batt goes dead with every thing off

woodmaansee

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Joined
May 14, 2016
Messages
1
my batt goes dead even with all brakers off something still draws the juice in a couple weeks with everything off what could be drawing current with everything is off thanks woody
 
Woody-
I agree with the previous post. Beyond that, you said all breakers were off?? Does that include pushing in your battery disconnect switch to its off position (assuming you have one)? There have been other posts about battery discharge on this forum over the years. It seems there are various "energy vampires" depending on the CruiserRV model and on modifications that may have been made.
Some owners have the luxury of shore power near where they store their trailers and they generally leave them plugged in, so things that slowly drain the battery are seldom an issue. Those who don't have shore power, usually hit the battery disconnect. I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but the disconnect should prevent the battery drain. Happy camping.
 
Or it could be you have a bad battery that won't hold a charge. Do you have a hydrometer to test the specific gravity? That sounds like rocket science, but it is cheap and easy to do.

I have been forced to learn a lot more about care and feeding of batteries than I ever dreamed. There are a lot of things you can do to help your batteries live long and prosper.
 
my batt goes dead even with all brakers off something still draws the juice in a couple weeks with everything off what could be drawing current with everything is off thanks woody


Hi Woody,
Welcome to the Forum... :)

The previous posts are offering great solutions ... If your batteries are lead-acid, the water-acid solution evaporates over time and can get low; you should check the level periodically and fill with Distilled water. If okay, check the solution with a hydrometer as profdant139 advises, and charge the battery/ies.

The low amperage items, as previously mentioned, can drain the battery/ies over time.

I run shore power during the camping season (I do not have a 30 amp supply yet for shore power at home, but I do not need it, my converter, charger, and lights pull much less; therefore, I plug into a 20 amp outlet in the garage). However, during the winter storage period, I pull the batteries and keep them in the garage (heated to around 45 - 50 deg.) on a Battery Tender built for two.

Good luck and hope you find the energy gremlins ... :grin:
 
Make sure your emergency brake cable is plugged in. You can inadvertently pull that out--it's the wire that connects to your A-frame, and then to your chains when you hook up.
 
Make sure your emergency brake cable is plugged in. You can inadvertently pull that out--it's the wire that connects to your A-frame, and then to your chains when you hook up.

I believe you are referring to the "brake away" switch ~ correct ?

Anoter 'energy gremlin' is the booster for the TV ... the little red light that is on when the button is pushed in on the plate where the TV cable connects.
 
Brake away switch, yes. Good one re. the little red booster button for the TV cable.
 
One other thing to check - be sure the light inside the frig is off when the door is closed or when open a crack to allow air circulation when parked/stored.
Some folks remove the bulb to eliminate any possibility.
 
Well, I have a question now - why would the brake away cable being disconnected drain the battery?

Mine has been "broken" (cable broken) for a LONG time!

Could that have been a possible partial cause of what I consider rather fast battery drainage?

Dang...the stuff you learn.

But, actually, now that I think about it, I think the trailer end is still plugged in. It's just the cable that something ripped in two. I'll need to go check...
 
Hi Michelle, if the pin or end is plugged in correctly, you should be fine. However, you really should get that broken cable fixed. If your truck separates from the trailer, you won't have your emergency brakes for the trailer, which could create an even worse situation. (Sorry, I'm a "safety first" kind of person...)
 
Hey, don't be sorry - I'm very safety minded, too. But I didn't think that the trailer could come away from the truck with the safety chains attached.

I'll get 'er fixed!
 
George sent me a link to this cable. I just ordered it and will fix my cable as soon as this new one arrives!

Thanks, G!

13335934_10208137187301442_1952779374693679826_n.jpg
 
Hey, don't be sorry - I'm very safety minded, too. But I didn't think that the trailer could come away from the truck with the safety chains attached.

I'll get 'er fixed!


From my experience quite a few years transporting manufactured homes up to 16' wide and 80' long ~ the 'safety chains' should hold. However, be advised that there are instances when the hitch itself can separate from the rest of the unit... at least on some where the hitch is bolted to the rest of the unit.

I moved about 100 homes a year and only had one problem. Unknown to me, this used home with a double front bedroom had been 'remodeled' with 5/8" sheet rock forward of the axles. About 25-30 miles down the road, the ball coupler on the hitch broke due to overloaded weight on the hitch. The safety chains held fine; it was like dropping an anchor on the road as the home drug the tractor/truck to a stop. Other than some deep scuff marks on the asphalt, no problem other than a delay for a welder to arrive and make necessary repairs to the hitch so the move could be completed.

I should mention that more than one coast to coast manufactured home transporter claimed they hacksaw the safety chains most of the way thru because they don't want to lose their semi tractor "toter" hauling the unit if it something goes wrong with the home. They want to be able to drive their truck home. :-O
 
Well, I have a question now - why would the brake away cable being disconnected drain the battery?

Mine has been "broken" (cable broken) for a LONG time!

Could that have been a possible partial cause of what I consider rather fast battery drainage?

Dang...the stuff you learn.

But, actually, now that I think about it, I think the trailer end is still plugged in. It's just the cable that something ripped in two. I'll need to go check...

Hi Michellep,
The little brake cable from the TV to the trailer connects to a pin plugged into a trailer brake switch... When in the unfortunate event that the trailer brakes lose from the TV, this cable pulls the pin from the trailer brake switch and applies the trailer brakes. The trailer should have a battery (Switched on) in the trailer to apply the trailer brakes (The TV to Trailer wiring plug can unplug during the highway disconnect).

Now, back to your question, if the trailer is parked with the battery switch on (The normal configuration for camping) and the cable is pulled, the pin will come out of the switch and engage the trailer brakes... and this will discharge the battery/ies, if not corrected... :cool:

Now, if your pin is still in, check the switch to see if it is in someway shorted and if you have been towing the trailer with a broken cable and a missing pin, AND the brakes are not applied on the trailer, you need to check your trailer brakes and electrical system... AND FIX the broken cable (This is a serious safety issue that really needs to be corrected)...

Check out this link and see if it sheds more light on the trailer break-away switch...
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailer-breakaway-kit-installation.aspx

P.S. If the brakes check out okay and the battery checks out okay, then you need to find the current drain source, battery lamp on in frig, electrical component left on (for example, in my unit, if I leave the water pump on, it comes on and off periodically to maintain pressure in the system) other small lamps or circuits on, or a short in the wiring or lamp/appliance.

And ... Good luck...
 
Last edited:
I sent this photo to George yesterday. Pin is still in and this will be fixed before I hit the road again...

13339701_10208140501584297_5805400477775067059_n.jpg


Thanks, everyone, for your advice.
 

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