Charging the battery.

[Bro Dean]

when we are on 110. the battery will not charge ..every thing else is working..and after I disconnect the battery at home and charging it, it will run on 12 volt power..but no power to the battery for charging on 110..fuses are all good..where do I start..??

 

[LJAZ]

Sounds like the converter isn't working properly. Do the lights work on 12V when your plugged into 110V shore power?

 

[JimboFunFinder]

when we are on 110. the battery will not charge ..every thing else is working..and after I disconnect the battery at home and charging it, it will run on 12 volt power..but no power to the battery for charging on 110..fuses are all good..where do I start..??

Do you have a WFCO converter? If so, open the inspection panel and check the fuse (or fuses) which are in the output that goes to the battery. You can go to the WFCO website and download a user manual if you don't have one. Since I understand that the 12V lights and accessories work from shore power, then I conclude the converter is making power but there is no connection to the batteries. There may also be another fuse located near the batteries to protect against a short. Somewhere you have an open connection, either in a fuse or the lead.

 

[Bro Dean]

I have power on 110, to all 12volt converter is running,Lights ,fan , fridge . and I have power from the battery to run Light etc..Now..when the power 110 is on..were do I put the Battery off switch..?? some thing is open, wire ,fuse..Thank you..I have my FLUKE in hand, if you see smoke, run..

 

[Bro Dean]

all lights working 110 - and on 12v

 

[Bro Dean]

how do I find out if it is a WFCO..??

 

[JimboFunFinder]

Well, I am impressed! Fluke qualifies you as an expert in my book. Attached are some shots of my WFCO converter. Yours might be similar.

See the two large red plug-in fuses? They are actually connected in parallel to effectively double the fuse rating. One side is connected to the voltage output of the converter and the other side to the heavy gauge wire (in my case a 8-10g) that runs to the battery.

My trailer also had an additional 40 amp inline fuse located outside the battery compartment and where the heavy wire mentioned above came out of the trailer harness. The fuse is inside a green holder supported by only the wires.

The WFCO directly distributes all of the DC to the lights and accessories. The heavy wire between the converter and the battery carries the charging current when connected to shore power AND the current flows in the opposite direction on the same wire when the DC is coming from the batteries.

Does that make sense? If not ask for more.
Good luck!

 

[Bro Dean]

LJAZ..Jimbo.. you will not believe what I found out..with the battery disconnect switch in the off position the Battery will not charge..But with the switch in the ON position I have 13.6 volts going to the battery..tested this with no battery connected ,,and with the switch in the On position I have 13.6 volts going to the plug going to the TOW vehicle..so now I am charging my battery ..Thank You...

 

[Bro Dean]

I do have a WFCO..just like yours..

 

[JimboFunFinder]

Bro Dean,
Glad I could help point you in the right direction!

Just FYI, wet cells would fully charge with the 13.6VDC from the WFCO but deep cycle batteries or AGM batteries used in RVs actually need closer to 14V to fully charge. From memory I think the deep cycle batteries are only getting to 75-80% charged with 13.6V. I installed a Renogy 20 Amp DC-DC Battery Charger in my Fun Finder so that it will charge properly from the WFCO and while I am towing it down the road. I wrote it up and posted it to this FF Forum probably 6 months ago if you are interested.
Happy FF camping!

 

[Bro Dean]

Cool..I am going to look it up now..Thank you..

 

[LJAZ]

Sorry, should have thought of the battery disconnect switch first
Start with the easy stuff.

 

[Bro Dean]

Haha... thank you...

 

[RipVan]

I am at a loss RE: the purpose of the "battery disconnect switch" ?? It seems to cause more problems than benefits! Every time I come across a thread that deals with the disconnect switch, I wonder why my '07 x210 doesn't appear to have one. It's possible that it does but I have yet to find it. I do have the black plastic box in the center of the under bed, pass through storage area but there is no switch of any kind associated with it. It's just a cover! I've yet to experience any battery issues. When plugged into shore power, the battery monitor generally shows a full charge. When not on shore power, the monitor does indicate a lower level of charge as time and use pass. I'm guessing that's to be expected. I also find it strange how easy it is to inadvertently put the switch into the disconnect mode. I would have designed it the other way around ;-). Maybe there should be a sticky for electrical problems with the #1 entry being "Check the battery disconnect switch"!!!

 

[Dakota 1120]

Actually, I would like some to explain why they even install a battery disconnect switch.

When I purchased my unit new, w/o explaining why, the selling dealer showed me the switch and said leave it pulled out....which I have done.

Never found any reason to push in the switch to disconnect the battery.

 

[twinster2]

Reason for the battery disconnect switch is to isolate the battery from parasitic drain caused by the LP/CO detector, radio, etc. during long intervals of non use. Plus it's a good way to help diagnose 12 volt electrical issues. For example if you are not sure the converter is putting out 12 volts, you turn off the switch and if you still have lights the converter is working fine.

 

[Dakota 1120]

There is no battery drain when my unit if parked w/o shore power for long periods of time.

Everything is turned off including the LP/CO detectors on which I have spliced in small push button on/off switches.

 

[jimplumley]

Yessir, that battery disconnect can cause problems. The first time I took our F210UDS for a NYS inspection, it failed repeatedly. It took the RV store's technician and me nearly a half hour to learn that the emergency breakaway brake power goes through the disconnect. Pulled it out and - BINGO! - brakes came back. And to make matters worse, the disconnect is mounted just inside the door where your left hip very easily makes contact. So if you like your trailer brakes to work, always remember to check the disconnect before towing. (not sure that location's such a good idea)

 

[Saltynuts]

Battery switch

Hi guys. I have a 2011 189. The switch to disconnect my battery is in my cargo hold. If it is pulled out my battery will charge and I will have power to my trailer brakes while towing. If by chance I forget to pull it out when I'm on the road or stuff in my cargo hold pushes against and gets pushed in I will not have any brakes to the trailer if my truck gets disconnected from the trailer. I ended up building a box around it so nothing can shut it off while traveling. Another stupid design buy Cruiser RV.

 

[twinster2]

Yessir, that battery disconnect can cause problems. The first time I took our F210UDS for a NYS inspection, it failed repeatedly. It took the RV store's technician and me nearly a half hour to learn that the emergency breakaway brake power goes through the disconnect. Pulled it out and - BINGO! - brakes came back. And to make matters worse, the disconnect is mounted just inside the door where your left hip very easily makes contact. So if you like your trailer brakes to work, always remember to check the disconnect before towing. (not sure that location's such a good idea)

One of the first mods I did when I bought my trailer 5 years ago was to bypass the main switch with respect to the break away switch. Basically I have a dedicated positive line directly from the battery through breakaway switch and to brakes. Its always off if the pin is in place and on when the pin is pulled, regardless of the master switch. I've had many trailers and Fun Finder was the first one that did not direct wire the breakaway switch. Go figure.