Dometic 2 way DM2652RBX Convert to 3 way

[hotqld]

Has anyone converted their 2way fridge freezer DM2652RBX that runs on propane and or 110volt with 12 volt controls.

To 3 way or changed the 110 volt heater to 12 volt heater ?
So I can run on Propane and or 12 volts.
I don't need 110volts capability.

 

[webslave]

Unless you have a really good way to keep your batteries charged, a 12 volt refrigerator is the best way to ruin a battery or a set of batteries. That's why most manufacturers quit providing them and even when they were provided, they were usually the little bar sized refrigerators found in popups. There was a time when they were almost a "must have", but, running a refrigerator on 12 volt power is a huge battery drain and is probably the least efficient means of refrigerator power. It takes an incredible amount of current (amperage) out of a battery to power a heater with enough "heat" to cool a refrigerator of any size.

That being said, I suspect there is a way to do a conversion. You'd need a 12v heater that could be adapted to your refrigerator, a new controller board designed for switching and managing the amperage that the heater would draw and probably new wires from the battery capable of handling the larger current draw. All-in-all, it won't be cheap nor cost effective for the results you'll get.

 

[hotqld]

12 volt

Hi Don
My intention is only run direct 12 volt when driving, we have 8 gauge wiring from the car battery to the travel trailer.

The other is I don't have access to 120volts only 240 volts, using a voltage above 50 volts I then need electrical supply approvals for the fridge which is way to expensive.

The idea was to transform 240V to 12V and I solve both problems.

 

[fourfourto]

Couldnt you just use a 50 amp to 30 amp adapter to run off 120 volts and get around inspection ?
Or just use propane for fridge ,I find it doesnt use much to keep the fridge going(compared to the heat)

 

[webslave]

I just noticed what his "problem" is, or, apparently is... He's from "Down Under" where no matter the plug that he uses, his voltage is going to be 220v. True 220v. Evidently, he's got a US specification FunFinder (120v) that has been imported into a 220v environment

I still don't think that converting the refrigerator is going to be the answer, particularly now that I know your base voltage is 220v.

Perhaps a dual-voltage converter, if they make such a thing or a step down transformer to take your 220v and step it down to 120v and then on to the converter? But, as I emailed the OP, IMHO, the running on propane would still be my first choice as opposed to trying to convert the stock refrigerator to 12v cooling. Another issue is going to be the size of the refrigerator you are converting...most 12v refrigerators are small because of the inherent inadequacy of 12v cooling. I have a hunting cabin on my property and the refrigerator in it is propane powered, with a 12v battery to provide power for the control board. I looked into and researched a 12v wind powered system and still found that the propane system gave me more "bang for the buck" for the number of times I was actually going to use the system. A 12v battery (with good charge) and a 20# of LP lasts several weeks back there without the battery going dead or the LP running out. Glad I didn't go the expensive route, as it turns out, I stay in the main house and walk the half mile back to where the hunting cabin is as opposed to actually using the hunting cabin...and no, I didn't build the cabin, it was already there (the shell) when we bought the property. I was joking with the wife the other day and told her from a property tax standpoint, we'd be better off bulldozing the place as opposed to paying tax for a dwelling back there.

Any route you go, it is going to take some ingenuity to get everything to work properly...what are doing about A/C and the other 120v appliances (microwave?) that the trailer has? That is why I was thinking along the lines of a step down transformer to take your 220v down to 120v just before the converter? That would provide the converter, and your trailer, with 120v and allow utilization of the unit in a 220v environment?

Anyway, always glad to have an Aussie friend on the forum and good luck with your conversions! A US FunFinder down under must be quite a rarity in the caravans you'd encounter in your travels! Glad to have you aboard

 

[hotqld]

Down under Funfinder

Thanks Don
Yes we brought the Funfinder new in the USA and shipped it to Australia, in Australia Travel Trailers similar to the 244 sell for $70,000.00
I rewired it in our 240 volt stuff and local microwave etc. The fridge freezer they want about $3000.00 for a 240 volt model, To date I have been using it on propane it uses approx. 20lbs in 8 days which includes a bit for oven and hot water.
I might have to install a 240V to 110V transformer just to power the fridge.
Its routine here for 3 way 12V / Propane / 240 v fridges.
I intend to take the 110 volt air cond out ....they are noisey things and weight up high does not appear cleaver and then install a $300.00 240v window type 1.6kw air cond under the queen bed exhausting thru the tunnel....hopefully will be heaps quieter.

Great Travel Trailer we are very happy with it, pretty much self sufficient to bush camp indefinitely with 400 watt solar panels and 400ah 12v batteries.
Some here are changing to 300AH 12V litium batteries Lifep04 and 3000 watt 12 volt to 240V inverters with 700 watt solar panels to run more household type appliances when bush camping.
Thanks for your help....

 

[webslave]

I can see where you've already made the conversions I was thinking about when I suddenly realized where you were located...I thought the "120v isn't available" should have jumped up and hit me in the face!

I think from a cost effective standpoint, as you've already discovered a 220v refrigerator is going to be costly, my choice, were I doing it, would be the step-down transformer inserted between the converter and the refrigerator and if you are camping in the bush for longer than the 8 days you get from your current LP setup, a spare tank or two of LP would be easy enough to procure and transport. At least, in the above changes, should you have an "issue" with a component out in the bush, repair parts might be easier to come by. I would carry an extra "US Specification" controller board, though, to handle failure of the controller. Dino makes the better boards and they should be relatively cost effective even with transport down under. You may even find a local supplier that stocks the boards, as, while it may sound rare, I understand that it isn't all that unusual for Aussies to import US made caravans. I am surprised though, that the 3 way refrigerator is still common in your environment. Up here, they've, for the most part, gone the way of the dinosaur, even in the smaller applications, they are starting to fade away. It may be that here, the preponderance of generator usage and full hook up CGs has more or less spelled their demise.

Lithium batteries have so many advantages over lead acid, that I think, in the near future, most rigs purposely modded for or designed for "boondocking" up here and "bush camping" down under, will be using them. The biggest hinderance right now is the charging changes and the question, up here anyway, of the chicken and the egg. Will the converter manufacturers start making converters with Li specific charging capacity or will they wait and give up the change to third party vendors as more folks make the change and Li batteries come down in price. Or will folks make the Li change and cobble together their own charging systems and thus negate the converter manufacturer's need to make any design changes until forced to...

Sounds like you are "on top" of everything, good luck and happy camping!

 

[hotqld]

I have a solution, if anyone else is looking to do similar, maybe 12V solar? or while towing long distance using the tugs alternator?

Out with the multi meter today, I have found two ways.

To run the DM 2652 ON 12 volts via solar / batteries or a 240volt to 12 volt transformer.

1/ Across teminals P3-4 and P3-3 as control wires to control a 12V solenoid. these connections are used on the 3 way DM2663. same circuit board. I reckon.

Turn gas off on the front fridge panel

2/ Use terminals P3 -1 and P3-2 the gas soleniod control wires to control a 12V solenoid.

Run the igniter and control wires thru a double pole change over switch to select 12V or propane on that circuit.



The flue and circuit board appears to be 3 way on the DM2652, so going to install two 12 volt elements one as spare or to hook up to the solar panels / Batteries in the future..

 

[thefarside]

Tony, Please take some pictures of that mod, I'm sure a lot of campers would like to see it. Me too.

 

[hotqld]

I don't think you can post images on here. Things changed a little from my post, but I still converted the 2way DM2652 TO 3 WAY for $150.00 maybe $200.00 if you count the 8mm cable running to the tug and hooking up via Anderson plugs. Dometic charges nearly $3000.00 for these in Australia so its worthwhile for me to modify.

1/ I ended up buying a new upper control board out of the DM2663 and fitting it to the DM2652 cost $60 to $90.00 depending where in the USA you brought it. The 3 way upper control board just plugs in no modifications.
2/ The lower control board is the same part number on the 2 way DM2652 and the 3 WAY dm2663.
Top right corner of the lower control board is a two pin plug plugging into a 4 pin socket, that goes to the propane soliniod.

On a old desktop computer that had died, I found the same 4 pin plug with wires attached, hook up to gas soliniod as before and with the 2 new wires use these to control your 40amp min relay to feed your 12 volt element.

3/ I used 8mm cable to the feed side of the solenoid. The 12 volts could be sourced from your alternator when towing or your battery solar system and in my case I do both of these plus a 240volt to 12 volt 350 watt converter to get around our laws in Australia, we are not allowed to use 110volt stuff.
Obviously if using your batteries a low voltage shut is needed so you don't break your batteries. Same as the car alternator, can only power when the ignition and car is running.

4/ I brought 2off 12 volt 275 watt elements the DM2652 has two holders that you can place elements in. One being a spare.

Test ran it turned on 6pm temp outside 90f av thru the night 78f by morning it had pulled down and froze a 2 ltr (1/2 gall) container of water.
On the 12 volt system.

The way it works I believe, you switch the upper control board to DC and that's all your fridge sees. Switch it to AC or Auto and it checks for AC no AC then it goes to propane.

If you PM me I can email photos
Cheers
Tony